Pulling at chest normal for shirt with button down dollar?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Papa Doble, Sep 7, 2012.

  1. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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    I recently purchased some extra slim fit BB OCBDs after trying on both the normal slim fit and extra slim fit versions. The normal slim fit seemed too big all around. I really love the extra slim fit ones I got in almost all fit aspects, however I've noticed one potential problem area with them.

    If I button all buttons except the top button at the neck (the way I wear them most of the time), a line often forms from the top most buttoned button to the shoulder, much like you see here (I apologize for not having pictures of this effect on my shirts. I might add some tonight if necessary.):

    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]

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    Now, if I button all the buttons, including the very top button (for example, if I were going to wear a tie), this line more or less goes away.

    Incidentally, if I button all buttons except the top button at the neck and also unbutton the collar buttons (I would never wear it this way), the line also goes away or at least subsides.

    Is this to be expected in a shirt with a button down collar?
     
  2. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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  3. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Are any of those photos you?

    Pulling is never right. The shoulders all look too big in the above pics to me.
     
  4. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    I've had this problem and was told by a tailor that it results from my having square shoulders. Moving the button(s) slightly might help.
     
  5. sturm07

    sturm07 Well-Known Member

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    You can just not button the top two and it would probably fix the problem.
     
  6. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Bumping this thread - but I have this problem too with my MTM shirts, and am looking for a solution. Could you elaborate on moving the buttons slightly - the collar buttons or the placket buttons? FWIW I wear my BD collar shirts with the top two buttons undone, and this is where the line from the highest buttoned button to the collar buttons forms.
     
  7. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    Posting a picture would be helpful.

    In pictures 3 and 4 (and possibly picture 2 as well) of the OP's post, it looks to me like the issue is square shoulders. If this is your problem, your shirt maker should be able to adjust the shoulder slope of future shirts.

    In picture 5 I think the problem is that the shirt is too tight across the chest--see how the fabric above the pecs can't hang properly from the shoulders? In this case, letting the chest out would help a lot.
     
  8. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Here's one of the pulling between topmost buttoned button and the collar buttons on mine from Luxire. They're working to analyze the issue but I didn't have this problem on any of my heavier weight oxfords with the exact same measurements and parameters, so maybe it's shrinkage, but shouldn't they adjust for that?

    [​IMG]
     
  9. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    The picture is too zoomed in. Can you post another showing your entire upper body? Do the lines go away if you unbutton the collars?
     
  10. Andrew Ryan

    Andrew Ryan Senior member

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    Can't take another photo at the moment, already at work. The lines do not go away when I unbutton the collar buttons, though they are perhaps less severe.
     

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