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Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. Montesquieu

    Montesquieu Senior member

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    Now that most of my jackets and suits have appeared in WAYWRN, I can post a comparison of Attolini, Rubinacci, and Steed. Feel free to vote for whichever maker's demonstrated work that you like best.

    Note that all items are bespoke except a few of the Attolinis, which are MTO/M through a Milan retailer. I'll show these MTM/O items first because they were my first orders chronologically. My physique and fabric/pocket/button preferences create a common denominator. The garments otherwise represent house styles.

    If you're wondering, I did in fact enjoy working with all three of the firms and look forward to future orders from each. Only one of the pieces shown - discussed in other threads - failed to meet my expectations. Since I no longer live and work in Europe, ordering is now harder for me than it used to be. Given the chance, my next purchase would be a Rubinacci from Naples.

    Enjoy.



    Attolini

    Attolini #1 (MTO/M from Milan retailer)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Attolini #2 (MTO/M from Milan retailer)
    [​IMG]

    Attolini #3 (MTO/M from Milan retailer)
    [​IMG]

    Attolini #4 (bespoke from Naples)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Attolini #5 (bespoke from Naples)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Attolini #6 (bespoke from Naples)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Attolini #7 (bespoke from Naples)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Attolini #8 (bespoke coat from Naples)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Rubinacci

    Rubinacci #1 (bespoke from Milan)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Rubinacci #2 (bespoke from Milan)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Rubinacci #3 (bespoke from Milan)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Steed by Edwin DeBoise

    Steed #1 (bespoke from London)
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Steed #2 (bespoke from London)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Steed #3 (bespoke from London)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Steed #4 (bespoke from London)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Steed #5 (bespoke from London)
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Extra credit: Castangia

    Castangia #1 (MTM/O from Luxembourg retailer)
    [​IMG]
     


  2. intent

    intent Senior member

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    This thread should be pinned.
     


  3. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    I love all of your jackets except the bespoke from London. The waist treatment and buttoning is horrendous.
     


  4. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    I love all of your jackets except the bespoke from London. The waist treatment and buttoning is horrendous.

    Surprisingly , I prefer the suits/jackets made by Steed...Better balance.

    I did find the sleeves a bit short on your Rubinacci jackets.
     


  5. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I love all of your jackets except the bespoke from London. The waist treatment and buttoning is horrendous.
    I agree. Not a Steed fan overall, so keep that in mind, though.
     


  6. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    The Steeds you have look bad from button point down. Looks like the hip area of the coat is cut too small. The button point seems too low as well.
     


  7. Matt S

    Matt S Senior member

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    I'm all for the Steed. The suit's drape, waist suppression, and button stance look perfect to me. The suit looks better than the sports coats because the jacket works well with the cut of the trousers. None of the other trousers look as nice as the Steed trousers.
     


  8. Hany

    Hany Senior member

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    Raking IMO:
    Steed
    Neapolitan Attolini
    Rubinacci
    Milanese Attolini
     


  9. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    I think it goes a bit like this.

    Attolini
    Rubinacci
    Castangia
    and because I have to include them, Steed (this is a comment that relates only to the stuff you've got. I've seen Steed elsewhere that works fine. This stuff doesn't to my eye)
     


  10. Mr Herbert

    Mr Herbert Senior member

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    Raking IMO:
    Steed
    Neapolitan Attolini
    Rubinacci
    Milanese Attolini


    agreed.
     


  11. yfyf

    yfyf Affiliate vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    I really like the leanness of the Castagania and would have voted for that if it were on the list. After that, all three are pretty close. The Attolini, but only just, followed by Rubinacci followed by Steed. Steed went a bit overboard with the waist.
     


  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    What I've noticed about Steed's waist treatments is that there is an inevitable asymmetry.
     


  13. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I say the Attolini. Bespoke is supposed to make you look your best, not every house style works for everyone. However, all your tailor pants or even some of casual pants are rather wonky, especially the Rubinacci number.
     


  14. 0b5cur1ty

    0b5cur1ty Senior member

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    Firstly, thanks for a terrific thread - very informative.

    To my own surprise, looking at all these pics, I find myself preferring the MTM from Attolini (and Castangia) to all the rest. I think this has mainly to do with the shoulders of the jackets - these seem to me to be more normal and in proportion (read narrower) compared to a lot of the bespoke jackets (particularly Steed), some of which seem slightly over-extended. Attolini #1 is particularly successful IMO - though that's probably the subtle roping doing it for me. I also remain of the opinion that slightly slimmer trousers would do wonders for the balance of that grey Steed suit.

    Needless to say, this is all nit-picking at the highest level and most of this looks great - the exception being those white jeans that are in desperate need of hemming. [​IMG]
     


  15. George

    George Senior member

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    You need some/more structure in your shoulders. With your build you can't carry an unpadded/lightly padded shoulder. It makes the tailoring look sloppy.
     


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