Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Keep the Steed panties and the Rubinacci/ Attolini bespoke coats [​IMG] .
     
  2. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    However, all your tailor pants or even some of casual pants are rather wonky, especially the Rubinacci number.

    This.
     
  3. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    Is it just me or is the Attolini top coat inordinately short? The pockets seem really high.
     
  4. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    I say the Attolini. Bespoke is supposed to make you look your best, not every house style works for everyone. However, all your tailor pants or even some of casual pants are rather wonky, especially the Rubinacci number.

    Maybe this is the next drape craze on SF, ass drape.
     
  5. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    I much prefer the Steed numbers, for their gorgeous shaping work alone.
     
  6. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    Maybe this is the next drape craze on SF, ass drape.

    I know people who can do that without wearing pants.
     
  7. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    I know people who can do that without wearing pants.

    LOL
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I really like the leanness of the Castagania and would have voted for that if it were on the list. After that, all three are pretty close.

    +1
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it goes a bit like this.

    Attolini
    Rubinacci
    Castangia
    and because I have to include them, Steed (this is a comment that relates only to the stuff you've got. I've seen Steed elsewhere that works fine. This stuff doesn't to my eye)


    This

    The collars on the Rubinacci are interesting. If the picture would show only the collar/lapel styling I would have thought these were from Caraceni Milan. Perhaps there is a difference in what city the Rubinacci's are made. Maybe they employ some tailors formerly with Caraceni.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The collars on the Rubinacci are interesting. If the picture would show only the collar/lapel styling I would have thought these were from Caraceni Milan. Perhaps there is a difference in what city the Rubinacci's are made. Maybe they employ some tailors formerly with Caraceni.

    Wow, now that's an eye. The Milan shop does use its own tailors, and some are ex-Caraceni.
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The collars on the Rubinacci are interesting. If the picture would show only the collar/lapel styling I would have thought these were from Caraceni Milan. Perhaps there is a difference in what city the Rubinacci's are made. Maybe they employ some tailors formerly with Caraceni.

    Wow, now that's an eye. The Milan shop does use its own tailors, and some are ex-Caraceni.

    Steed looks the worst to me--that waist is all mucked up, particularly on Steed #3. The Attolini MTM, particularly the dinner suit, looks very MTM. They just aren't shaped very finely. The Milanese Rubinacci looks better than both those two, but I'd personally prefer the Attolini bespoke. The Rubinacci just doesn't have the same character when it comes out of Milan. In particular, the chest looks way too lean and bland.

    Attolini bespoke for the win in my book.
     
  12. needshoehelp

    needshoehelp Senior member

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    I agree with those who have said the biggest problem is with the pants. The leg opening is, IMO, too wide for that short of a break. I would either get narrower trousers, or, better yet, add a 1/2" or so to the hem so they will break properly.
     
  13. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    I think it goes a bit like this.

    Attolini
    Rubinacci
    Castangia
    and because I have to include them, Steed (this is a comment that relates only to the stuff you've got. I've seen Steed elsewhere that works fine. This stuff doesn't to my eye)


    Firstly, thanks for a terrific thread - very informative.

    To my own surprise, looking at all these pics, I find myself preferring the MTM from Attolini (and Castangia) to all the rest. I think this has mainly to do with the shoulders of the jackets - these seem to me to be more normal and in proportion (read narrower) compared to a lot of the bespoke jackets (particularly Steed), some of which seem slightly over-extended. Attolini #1 is particularly successful IMO - though that's probably the subtle roping doing it for me. I also remain of the opinion that slightly slimmer trousers would do wonders for the balance of that grey Steed suit.

    Needless to say, this is all nit-picking at the highest level and most of this looks great - the exception being those white jeans that are in desperate need of hemming. [​IMG]


    Agree with the above; strangely, Attolini MTM looks best to me, esp. because of the shoulder issue obs explained so well. Oh yes, and the trousers... I dunno how to fix it but they certainly don't look as nice as the jackets.
     
  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Wow, now that's an eye. The Milan shop does use its own tailors, and some are ex-Caraceni.

    Steed looks the worst to me--that waist is all mucked up, particularly on Steed #3. The Attolini MTM, particularly the dinner suit, looks very MTM. They just aren't shaped very finely. The Milanese Rubinacci looks better than both those two, but I'd personally prefer the Attolini bespoke. The Rubinacci just doesn't have the same character when it comes out of Milan. In particular, the chest looks way too lean and bland.

    Attolini bespoke for the win in my book.


    Are you saying that the Rubinacci 'house style' differs depending on which location you get measured at?
     
  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Are you saying that the Rubinacci 'house style' differs depending on which location you get measured at?

    Yes. Have I ever suggested otherwise? Mariano or Luca will tell you the same. If you come into London House in Naples asking for a lean, clean jacket, they'll often suggest using their Milan shop instead. Different tailors do different work--that's been my point the whole time, no?
     

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