Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Montesquieu, Apr 5, 2010.

  1. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Yes. Have I ever suggested otherwise? Mariano or Luca will tell you the same. If you come into London House in Naples asking for a lean, clean jacket, they'll often suggest using their Milan shop instead. Different tailors do different work--that's been my point the whole time, no?

    Make sense, interesting, nonetheless.

    Which, for lack of a better term, "style" travels? Who comes to New York?
     


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    IMO:
    Attolini looks good
    The one Castangia example looks good
    Rubinacci looks a bit off
    Steed doesn't look very good
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Make sense, interesting, nonetheless.

    Which, for lack of a better term, "style" travels? Who comes to New York?


    Luca comes to New York. I actually don't know whether you can pick to have things made in Naples or Milan, but I can't see why not.
     


  4. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Luca comes to New York. I actually don't know whether you can pick to have things made in Naples or Milan, but I can't see why not.

    Ah- thanks M- wondering how that translates to each cutter...
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Attolini looks good

    Do you see a marked difference between Attolini MTM and bespoke, or am the only one? The MTM has no shaping in the chest. It looks like they just took a RTW jacket and cut at the sides.
     


  6. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Yes. Have I ever suggested otherwise? Mariano or Luca will tell you the same. If you come into London House in Naples asking for a lean, clean jacket, they'll often suggest using their Milan shop instead. Different tailors do different work--that's been my point the whole time, no?

    Luca comes to New York. I actually don't know whether you can pick to have things made in Naples or Milan, but I can't see why not.

    Pardon my ignorance but I'm really confused now. I thought that the cutter/fitter influences the shape, fit of the suit - the tailor pieces it all together.

    If Luca's the one that's travelling and he's the one doing the fitting, won't the garment then take on whichever 'style' he represents?
     


  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Do you see a marked difference between Attolini MTM and bespoke, or am the only one? The MTM has no shaping in the chest. It looks like they just took a RTW jacket and cut at the sides.

    The bespoke seem to fit better but the styling on the MTM seems more attractive to me - I can't really explain it but I think the MTM ones are better looking garments. The cut on #5 is especially unflattering IMO - makes him look chubby.
     


  8. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Are you saying that the Rubinacci 'house style' differs depending on which location you get measured at?

    It does make sense especially if they're locally trained..

    Milan is a city with a different sociocultural and therefore sartorial heritage than Naples..
    The Milan look is cleaner and more structured...More business like when Naples is more flamboyant...
     


  9. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Do you see a marked difference between Attolini MTM and bespoke, or am the only one? The MTM has no shaping in the chest. It looks like they just took a RTW jacket and cut at the sides.

    I see it as you see it; not that the MTM looks bad. I wouldn't expect the MTM to look as naturally shaped without some serious surgery.
     


  10. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    It does make sense especially if they're locally trained..

    Milan is a city with a different sociocultural and therefore sartorial heritage than Naples..
    The Milan look is cleaner and more structured...More business like when Naples is more flamboyant...



    We get that- Trini's point, and my question, is how one individual's measurements results in two different house style that still fit exceptionally well. I might suppose that any issues are resolved in the fittings and that Luca's measurements are enough to get started.
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Pardon my ignorance but I'm really confused now. I thought that the cutter/fitter influences the shape, fit of the suit - the tailor pieces it all together.

    If Luca's the one that's travelling and he's the one doing the fitting, won't the garment then take on whichever 'style' he represents?


    Neither Luca nor Mariano are cutters. They may take initial measurements and liaise with the tailor who is making your garment during fittings, and they are responsible for the ultimate outcome, but they aren't in the back cutting cloth or sewing.

    The bespoke seem to fit better but the styling on the MTM seems more attractive to me - I can't really explain it but I think the MTM ones are better looking garments. The cut on #5 is especially unflattering IMO - makes him look chubby.

    I think the MTM Attolini dinner suit is one of the worst, and arguably the worst, of the whole bunch. It really looks just like RTW adjusted by a lazy alterations tailor. Not too hot on the style, either: the peaks looks like they are going to lift-off at any given moment.

    That said, the other MTM example is much better looking. I don't understand the discrepancy. I can see why one might prefer it over the bespoke, but chest shaping is really important to me.
     


  12. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I think they all look great in their own way. I'd be happy with any one of them. All of them seem to have a more relaxed style than one often sees which I appreciate. They are not clean and lean. The one thing I might suggest is to lower your next commission a half inch. On some items the quarters seem a bit scrunched.

    Thanks for the comparison! Very gracious of you.
     


  13. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    For your body habitus, Attolini [and maybe Liverano & Liverano].

    - M
     


  14. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    I think they all look great in their own way. I'd be happy with any one of them.

    I can't say that about the Steeds.

    Vox' Steeds make me want to meet with Edwin and yet these do not.
     


  15. Doxe

    Doxe Senior member

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    Montesquieu,

    Which of the suits feels like it fits your body the best?

    The reason I ask is that in the past Vox has had people comment that his Solito fits better than his Steed, only to be told by Vox that the Steed is more shapely and fitted and the 2 dimensional picture does not capture the full shape of the suit.

    Also, what are the weights of the fabrics on the Steed suits? My own experience is that a suit needs to settle on the body. Usually the heavier the cloth the longer it takes for the suit to properly conform. Does this explain the odd collar roll on the Steeds above the button?

    Fit notwithstanding, I love the fabrics you've chosen. Particularly the Steed #5 and the Attolini #1.

    Thanks for posting your pics and opening yourself to potential (inevitable) criticism (abuse).
     


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