Pleats for n00bs

[king_of_cups]

I'm a novice, and have some questions about the function/context/appropriateness of certain types of pleats on trousers. Are forward pleats more formal than reverse? What about inverted pleats? How do I know how many pleats to go with, and what type?

(If this is covered somewhere in a resource that's already on here, I apologize -- I wasn't able to find it. Mods, please delete if this is redundant!)

 

[dieworkwear]

The pleats you mentioned are generally used for different things. Inverted pleats are generally used for the back of coats and pockets. They help that space expand, and then contract when not in use. Allows for more movement.

I've seen inverted pleats on trousers, but it's rare (Armani used to use inverted pleats on trousers in the 80s). Mostly, trousers are made with forward or reverse pleats.

This is a forward pleat (sometimes called a regular pleat)

This is a reverse pleat.

The forward pleat is more English. The reverse pleat is more Italian. Americans have been known to use both. Both are used to help the upper part of the trouser expand when sitting. It's for comfort. Additionally, when you wear a high waisted trousers, the line of a pleat can visually help break up the expanse of cloth that takes up the lap. When done well, it can also help draw a straight line from the waist down to the crease and then further down to the cuff.

Reverse pleats pull fabric from the side, so you get a flatter shape at the hips. Forward pleats pull fabric from the fly. That's why forward pleated trousers sometimes have a ballon shape like this ( )

If you're new to pleats, I find that a reverse pleat can be easier to wear. To my eye, it looks a little more like a flat front, especially if the pleats aren't too deep. Some people may find that forward pleats feel more formal, English, or old-fashioned. I have trousers in both and like them, but generally wear forward pleats with suits and reverse pleats with odd jackets/ trousers.

 

[king_of_cups]

The pleats you mentioned are generally used for different things. Inverted pleats are generally used for the back of coats and pockets. They help that space expand, and then contract when not in use. Allows for more movement.

I've seen inverted pleats on trousers, but it's rare (Armani used to use inverted pleats on trousers in the 80s). Mostly, trousers are made with forward or reverse pleats.

This is a forward pleat (sometimes called a regular pleat)

View attachment 1604016


This is a reverse pleat.

View attachment 1604018


The forward pleat is more English. The reverse pleat is more Italian. Americans have been known to use both. Both are used to help the upper part of the trouser expand when sitting. It's for comfort. Additionally, when you wear a high waisted trousers, the line of a pleat can visually help break up the expanse of cloth that takes up the lap. When done well, it can also help draw a straight line from the waist down to the crease and then further down to the cuff.

Reverse pleats pull fabric from the side, so you get a flatter shape at the hips. Forward pleats pull fabric from the fly. That's why forward pleated trousers sometimes have a ballon shape like this ( )

If you're new to pleats, I find that a reverse pleat can be easier to wear. To my eye, it looks a little more like a flat front, especially if the pleats aren't too deep. Some people may find that forward pleats feel more formal, English, or old-fashioned. I have trousers in both and like them, but generally wear forward pleats with suits and reverse pleats with odd jackets/ trousers.

Thanks so much for this! So having two (or more) pleats is just more of the same, then?

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Some say that forward pleats offer a cleaner line than reverse pleats. I don’t know; maybe. I think as long as the slacks are cut properly and the rise is regular, they shouldn’t be that different. I have a few reverse pleat trousers still and though I’ve completely done away with my other pleated trousers, I don’t recall that ever being an issue.

I think one or two on either side should be fine. I wouldn’t do more.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks so much for this! So having two (or more) pleats is just more of the same, then?

yes

 

[apShepard]

Would you recommend high waisted trousers without pleats? I'm thin and feel like pleats just add bulk to my waist

 

[dieworkwear]

Some say that forward pleats offer a cleaner line than reverse pleats.

It's the opposite. It's said that reverse pleats offer a cleaner line. As I mentioned above, forward pleats often have a balloon shape because of how they pull fabric/ volume from the fly and towards the hips. You then end up looking to the fold of the pleat as it swings out.

Example, this is a forward pleat. Notice how the line curves

This is a reverse pleat. The line is cleaner

Would you recommend high waisted trousers without pleats? I'm thin and feel like pleats just add bulk to my waist

After comfort, I think it's mostly a stylistic thing. Some men wear high-waisted trousers that are flat front. I prefer them with pleats.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

It's the opposite. It's said that reverse pleats offer a cleaner line. As I mentioned above, forward pleats often have a balloon shape because of how they pull fabric/ volume from the fly and towards the hips. You then end up looking to the fold of the pleat as it swings out.

Example, this is a forward pleat. Notice out the line curves

View attachment 1604144 View attachment 1604145

This is a reverse pleat. The line is cleaner

View attachment 1604146 View attachment 1604155



After comfort, I think it's mostly a stylistic thing. Some men wear high-waisted trousers that are flat front. I prefer them with pleats.

yeah, I get it. To me they look about the same as far as the line goes.

It depends on how well the rest of the trouser is cut. I’m sure the introduction of pleats brings in a technical dimension into the tailoring that perhaps is not as urgent as with flat fronts.

 

[dieworkwear]

yeah, I get it. To me they look about the same as far as the line goes.

It depends on how well the rest of the trouser is cut. I’m sure the introduction of pleats brings in a technical dimension into the tailoring that perhaps is not as urgent as with flat fronts.

Can't imagine getting a better cut trouser than these

Those are made by Steed. You still see that curve in the line. I use Steed for most of my tailored clothing and have trousers with the same effect.

Reverse pleats don't have the same issue.

 

[king_of_cups]

Would you recommend high waisted trousers without pleats? I'm thin and feel like pleats just add bulk to my waist

I think that if your torso is *very* long and uninterrupted (unlike my squat torso with a beer gut), it can totally work, but even then, it's a lot of real estate without something topographical going on (as @dieworkwear pointed out, earlier). I think 70s vibes, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

 

[king_of_cups]

Can't imagine getting a better cut trouser than these


View attachment 1604159 View attachment 1604160


Those are made by Steed. You still see that curve in the line. I use Steed for most of my tailored clothing and have trousers with the same effect.

Reverse pleats don't have the same issue.


View attachment 1604161

@dieworkwear came out guns blazing with all this trouser Appreciation, here! [EDIT: lol @ the auto-correct into "Appreciation"]

 

[dieworkwear]

I think pleats should also be part of the vibe or silhouette of the outfit.

For example, here are two coats from Napoli Su Misura. The silhouette is very clean, which is to say that there's not much drape in the chest. Everything looks tidy.

Same here. Fit is very clean and tidy. Little drape in the chest.

With something like that, I think you can go with or without pleats. Flat front, clean tailoring is a hallmark of classic American style. Natural shoulder Brooks Brothers type look.

I personally prefer a fuller chest, slightly extended shoulder, and pleated trousers. Notice the shape of the chest and extended shoulder line on these coats

A coat like that almost screams out for pleated trousers.

That said, even with a drape coat, I often wear flat front trousers. Certain fabrics, such as moleskin and corduroy, look better as flat fronts to me. I also only wear flat front chinos. Example of a drape coat with flat front moleskin trousers:

I believe Vox mostly wears his drape cut Steed sport coats with flat front trousers

 

[clee1982]

I have old RL Dalton trouser that I tapered it's double or triple forward pleat, came as part of my Polo II suit, I thought I would hate it, but with jacket and braces I actually like it a lot. I don't know what your size, probably can find old RL Dalton on eBay for cheap and taper the leg if you want to just experiment if you like it without spending a lot.

 

[dieworkwear]

For a while, I ran a secret Tumblr account collecting various quotes and passages about Charlie Davidson, the late, great owner of The Andover Shop. One of his quotes:





The guy was a real character and full of hilarious stories. As many here may know, he dressed Miles Davis, Chet Baker, and others during the heyday of Ivy Style. Was known for being a bit of a crank. But also a stalwart and flamekeeper for classic American style.

Charlie's preferred trouser style:

 

[clee1982]

have you check out Andover's website lately, guess everyone moves with the time they have things I wasn't expecting (dress sneaker, zip in liner sports coat, knit blazer)