Please help me find higher raise pants

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SamSpade, Aug 8, 2012.

  1. SamSpade

    SamSpade Senior member

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    The only existing thread with the same problem produces unsatisfactory results.

    Basically, I am about to transition from frustration to full on rage :fu: - the current trend of low raise pants makes no sense from any angle: it looks bad/sloppy/childish, its uncomfortable, and the shirts get easily untucked. I hate it but I've been unable to find pants with a sensible raise (even at supposedly stodgy places like brooks bros and jos bank)

    One exception are the Epaulet pants, which have a nice 12.5" rise, but unfortunately the overall cut is terrible - they are clearly meant to be worn by anorexic hipsters, rather than average guys (I'm not a single pound overweight or disproportionate in any way, yet their pants are just tight and uncomfortable). Please suggest alternatives :( Thank you :D
     


  2. Shikar

    Shikar Senior member

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    In my experiemce...High rise:

    Oxxford, highest in OTR pants.
    Zegna
    Chester Barre
    Zanella
    Incotex, their 100+ wool dress pants
    Ralph Lauren Blue Label
    And there is always bespoke....

    Regards.
     


  3. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    I have the same problem. I have some mass in my lower body due to a sports background. Moreover, my legs are also quite short , and low rise pants make them look ridiculously so. Fortunately, I recently stumbled on some Zegna pants at a heavy discount, and lo and behold, realised that high rise pants actually look good on me. They have enough material on the backside to cover my rear and also help to hide the fact that I have legs like a duck.

    Anywho, what about some other brands, any comments on the following:
    Panta
    Cucinelli
    Barbera
    Borrelli
    Kiton
    Isaia
    Valentini
    Germano
    Rota
     


  4. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    Have you tried to size up in the Walt's? Ie, if you are a 32 buy the 34?
    I have an athletes body and I found sizing up in the Walts and then having them taken in works fine.
    Your quads are over 24'?
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2012


  5. HughJ

    HughJ Senior member

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    Any reason you chose to size up in the Walts rather than go to the Rudys? I'm looking into buying a pair next season and would appreciate any advice. This may also be of interest to the OP, as the Rudys are 2" larger in the thigh, while seemingly very similar in fit the rest of the way. Thanks.
     


  6. SamSpade

    SamSpade Senior member

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    HI, I tried both the Walts and the Rudys in my true size. While the Rudys are indeed marginally roomier, the cut is basically the same and i still had to have my tailor let out the crotch and the thighs; this makes them workable, though not for extended period of time, since 1) there isn't that much slack to let out and 2) it's kinda moot, because they no longer offer them

    I'll probably give it a try sizing up the Walts since these are overall okay pants, it's jst kind of sad that for all the purported renaissance in mens clothing, overwhelming majority of choices are stuck in a particuular paradigm that has some major issues . I have to admit that the Epaulets look pretty decent - as long as you don't move at all. Once you do, you start to feel constricted in a way that shouldn't be an issue in quality clothing. (And again - I don't have overly huge thighs,butt, or you know what :), so that's not an issue of non-standard build)
     


  7. SamSpade

    SamSpade Senior member

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    Mikael, the part of your list I am familiar with is not going to help: panta, kiton, borelli and issaia all have sub 11" rises in recent years. DK about the others.
     


  8. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    Just had a look at Epaulet's web store. 48 pairs of trousers, 47 of which were in the Walt fit. :censored:
     


  9. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    This is nice info - thanks! Don't have to waste my money ordering a pair of Panta's and then paying for the return...
     


  10. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    I have decent size legs and a prominent seat, tied to a 32' waist. I'm not a bodybuilder, but years of squats and running for sports built up my legs quit a bit (for my size anyway). If your quads are not over 23' your problem should be solved by going up 2 sizes and seeing a competent tailor. The end result produces a nice fit with the highest rise you will find RTW.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2012


  11. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    Any tips for 25" thighs tied to a 34" waist? (I'm not quitting squats to fit into these chicken-legs-fit pants everybody's wearing nowadays)
     


  12. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    There are only a couple Rudy options.

    I have muscular legs and a prominent seat, but a somewhat slender frame if that makes sense. At any rate, if your quads are 23' or under, the walts will work fine by sizing up. I wear a 32 waist, sized up to a 34, and had my tailor make adjustments. The end result was exactly what I was after: a slim fit trouser with a high rise.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2012


  13. Frankie22

    Frankie22 Senior member

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    I would look into having a tailor create some trousers for you. It might be the only way to get what you are after. The walts are going to be to small for your quads.
     


  14. HughJ

    HughJ Senior member

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    Ah, thanks Frankie. I've been told that they will be restocking their selection in September, though I'm not sure if this will be just Walts or both. Sam, if I'm reading the chart correctly, the sized up Walts will still be 1" smaller than TTS Rudys, so if Rudys again become an option, they may suit you better.

    Edit: I contacted them, and the Rudy is indeed discontinued.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2012


  15. Mikael

    Mikael Well-Known Member

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    Infuriating. It seems that all brands are doing this. Canali's suits used to have more of a regular cut, but recent models are too tight for me. Moreover, I heard from a tailor that sometimes thigh fit can be fixed by letting the trousers out a bit at the side seams - but this requires that the trousers have some extra on the leg, which is of course one of the first things the manufacturers eliminate when trying to minimize costs. According to the same tailor, Zegna's pants used to have this, but nowadays most of Zegna's odd pants are produced in a factory in Portugal, and the extra cloth is no longer there.

    Where I live, MTM will run about $400. Luckily, I'll visit Hong Kong in December, where I'll be able to get bespoke (WW Chan) for the same price. Guess I'll just have to make do with a very small trouser wardrobe (1-2 pair)...
     


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