Please critique first suit

[yimmy]

First off, this whole dressing yourself thing is a lot harder than you all make it look. This is my first suit (otr) so I'm still learning but wanted to get a critique before I have it tailored. Does it fit? What alterations would you recommend to make it fit my profile best. In the pictures the pants are unhemmed and I did roll them up but I realize the length is not correct. This is also the first decent dress shirt I've purchased (moderntailor) so any constructive criticism on the entire outfit is encouraged. I plan on getting new ties but this is the only one I have for now.

Things I notice:
- Suit pulls just a little in the chest (I am a few lbs overweight

)
- Will waist suppression make more form fitting?
- Sleeves seem baggy and too long?
- Pants need work. I always have problems with my pants flaring out at the pockets because I have muscular legs with a small waist. Also, the rise, width,...something is off.

Not sure why I'm crooked in nearly every pic...

 

[Jr Mouse]

You are far more brave then I am.

 

[acridsheep]

First off, I've seen much worse, so take everything that follows with the knowledge that these kind of threads usually originate with pictures that make you throw up. Yours does not. The good: 1) It seems to fit in the shoulders; 2) It is a good color; 3) It is a timeless style The bad: 1) The button stance is too high, which is having the effect of suppressing around your chest instead of your waist. This is not good. 2) The sleeves are definitely far too long. 3) The balance of the suit (front to back, as depicted in the 3rd shot) is actually not horrible, which is making me wonder what it would look like to see you in the long version of this size, or potentially one size up (provided the shoulders still remain well-fitting); 4) The trousers are off. My suspicion is that they are too tight in the seat area, which is producing a flair around your knees, and below, which is more standard sized.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

That rumpling around the back of your legs has to do with your forward pointing hips. The way to eliminate that is to have the back rise take up very slightly into the waistband. I have this issue as well as having no ass so it is a constant struggle with the tailor.

 

[Eustace]

The shirt cuffs look too big as well. Just a couple bucks to fix.

 

[yimmy]

Great feedback. I see what your referring to with the high button stance. That is not good. Anything I can do?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Nothing you can do about button stance.

 

[acridsheep]

^ I'm no expert, but maybe you could have a tailor let out around the chest a little bit, and take in a little lower, to mitigate some of it, but I defer to someone with more experience than me.

 

[Superfluous]

If you don't want the high button stance you have to buy a suit with a low button stance

. The problem with the button stance is that if its too high, it doesn't seem to divide your torso correctly. One of the best at a good button stance I think is Tom Ford.

It gives a nice curve down to a point below the chest that curves back in. If the button is too high, then it leave no room for the suit to curve back over the chest. This picture is good because it illustrates it well from a kind of side angle. Maybe I'm wrong, but that's just my opinion on it.

 

[yimmy]

Tony I will no doubt be getting a lower button stance on my next suit. In the mean time I'm stuck trying to alter this one.

Yea I'm going to take it to the tailor and see if he can adjust anything to change the affect of the suit. And getting more personal...I am very active and have fallen off the wagon for the last month. I have probably an 3/4 to an inch in my chest and 2-3 inchs in my stomach that will be slimmed down soon. This should help shouldn't it?

 

[Superfluous]

Originally Posted by yimmy

Tony I will no doubt be getting a lower button stance on my next suit. In the mean time I'm stuck trying to alter this one.

Yea I'm going to take it to the tailor and see if he can adjust anything to change the affect of the suit. And getting more personal...I am very active and have fallen off the wagon for the last month. I have probably an 3/4 to an inch in my chest and 2-3 inchs in my stomach that will be slimmed down soon. This should help shouldn't it?


Don't think that you're "stuck" with it, because it's just a matter of preference. For some reason people believe that a high button stance is "in" right now and that low button stances look dated (according to a worker at Barney's). For many of us here, it's not about what's "in," so we typically go for things in between... but if I had to pick an end of the spectrum, I prefer a lower button stance with a more natural roll.

 

[acridsheep]

Originally Posted by Tony Romo

Don't think that you're "stuck" with it, because it's just a matter of preference. For some reason people believe that a high button stance is "in" right now and that low button stances look dated (according to a worker at Barney's). For many of us here, it's not about what's "in," so we typically go for things in between... but if I had to pick an end of the spectrum, I prefer a lower button stance with a more natural roll.

+1. OP, it's not terrible, and with a few alterations, it will look even better. I have plenty of stuff that looks worse than this.

 

[yimmy]

Thanks guys. I now notice when I hold the jacket closed half inch lower it looks much better. From the get-go I knew something was off with the jacket but couldn't figure out what. This has definitely been a learning experience for me.

btw acrid your outfits are always impressive in WAYWRN.

 

[acridsheep]

Originally Posted by yimmy

Thanks guys. I now notice when I hold the jacket closed half inch lower it looks much better. From the get-go I knew something was off with the jacket but couldn't figure out what. This has definitely been a learning experience for me.

btw acrid your outfits are always impressive in WAYWRN.

Very kind of you to say, but stick around longer and you'll learn:

1) No they aren't;
2) There are many better folks to learn from

 

[AlexE]

Looks actually not bad (shoulders are good, jacket length is good). See a good tailor and he/she should not have big problems in fixing the remaining issues (shortening sleeves, fixing trousers).

Don't worry too much about the higher button stance. It is not such a big deal and you will reach perfection regarding such details as you become more knowledgeable about buying suits.