Peak lapels alteration

[Zarium]

I finally collected my suit jacket yesterday, almost three months after I first handed the fabric to my tailor.

I had specified and reminded him many times exactly how I wanted the lapels to be cut/to look like - 3.75" with a very long roll (ending somewhere between the first and last button) and the points of the peak lapels pointing upwards (somewhere mid-shoulder).

Despite that, they defaulted to his normal house cut - 4" (not 3.75") almost horizontal peaks with a huge belly, but a short roll.

Now, I'd like to know if alteration of this is possible - considering the jacket is already finished. I've read that altering the roll of a lapel depends on the tension of the collar before, but I know nothing about the intricacies of tailoring. Basically, I'd like to know if it'd be possible to alter how my current jacket's lapels look like to have a longer roll; ending in between the first and last button, and have the peaks pointing upwards instead of towards the points of my shoulders without screwing the jacket up.

I realize that how the suit is cut makes it look dated on me. Huge, horizontal lapels instead of a more modern TF-esque configuration; modern but timeless.

I might bring this up to the tailor when I next visit him (I tried to explain that the lapels weren't what I wanted when I took collection of it, but I was rushing), but I want to know if such an alteration is possible first, as he tends to tell me bullshit out of laziness sometimes.

I'll probably also be trying a different tailor next, as having waited so long and paid so much for something not exactly what I wanted is disappointing.

 

[Despos]

I find more things off about what you want the suit to be than the way the suit looks now.

Change the lapel from 4" to 3 3/4" is doable. To roll the lapel past the top button is a major mistake and no real tailor would do that. You could have asked for a low one button style.

Rolling the lapel down will put the jacket and vest at an odd relationship. The vest is high and looks traditional and will look incongruent when the jacket lapels roll lower and expose more of the vest.

These lapels have practically no belly.

Have you ever seen peaks that point up to mid shoulder? They are very rare and odd looking.

I like the look of this jacket and the width of the lapels as they are. Would change the pockets to besom by pushing the flaps into the pocket. The fit and balance are so good on this suit tells me they did a good job making the suit. If this was MTM the tailor doesn't have much control over how things are styled.

Trousers hang funny, too narrow in the upper thigh.

As is, this suit could be worn anywhere, anytime.

 

[Zarium]

I find more things off about what you want the suit to be than the way the suit looks now.
Change the lapel from 4" to 3 3/4" is doable. To roll the lapel past the top button is a major mistake and no real tailor would do that. You could have asked for a low one button style.
Rolling the lapel down will put the jacket and vest at an odd relationship. The vest is high and looks traditional and will look incongruent when the jacket lapels roll lower and expose more of the vest.
These lapels have practically no belly.
Have you ever seen peaks that point up to mid shoulder? They are very rare and odd looking.
I like the look of this jacket and the width of the lapels as they are. Would change the pockets to besom by pushing the flaps into the pocket. The fit and balance are so good on this suit tells me they did a good job making the suit. If this was MTM the tailor doesn't have much control over how things are styled.
Trousers hang funny, too narrow in the upper thigh.
As is, this suit could be worn anywhere, anytime.

The lapel size isn't such a big issue, so I'll probably leave it at 4". The rolling lapel past the top button thing is tough to explain...it's not that I want it to end in between the two buttons as if the button is actually in the middle. I'll include a picture of SpooPoker's TF suit (which I found inspiration from) for easier explanation.




See how the lapel rolls? That look was exactly what I was aiming for.

I think my usage of the term "belly" is wrong...apologies for that.

I agree with you about the waistcoat. Can anything be done about that, or is it not viable?

I think I didn't explain the peaks pointing mid shoulder thing properly (or used the wrong terms). Once again, Spoo's jacket's lapels are exactly what I mean - that they point upwards. I have found modern peak lapels to look this way, and older ones to be more horizontal (like mine).




This is a bespoke suit, not MTM. I agree on the fit and balance - this is far, far superior compared to the first suit I got made up by this tailor (which was a fused, one-fitting session suit). Just to clarify things, I am actually very happy with this suit - it's just that I only wish the lapels were how I envisioned them to be. I'll likely not be using the same tailor for the next suit only because he takes too long these days (and has started charging a lot more than before).

 

[Despos]

Did you show this picture to your tailor or just describe things to him?

Your suit looks much nicer than spoo's to my eye. The lapel roll on spoo's suit is what is wrong with his suit. The collar is too short, it's not fitting properly. You are asking the tailor to do something that isn't correct to do. Asking him to make an intentional mistake.

The buttoning point is too high on your suit but that is a modern affectation.

The angle of the peak is arbitrary and personal preference. I don't like the upward angle. Wouldn't say it is more modern, just different.

 

[Zarium]

Did you show this picture to your tailor or just describe things to him?
Your suit looks much nicer than spoo's to my eye. The lapel roll on spoo's suit is what is wrong with his suit. The collar is too short, it's not fitting properly. You are asking the tailor to do something that isn't correct to do. Asking him to make an intentional mistake.
The buttoning point is too high on your suit but that is a modern affectation.
The angle of the peak is arbitrary and personal preference. I don't like the upward angle. Wouldn't say it is more modern, just different.

I showed these pictures and also a few others highlighting how I wanted the lapel to look; with that upward angle. It really is personal preference - I know plenty of people who much prefer peak lapels which look like my suit's, saying it looks less "aggressive". But I like the long, sweeping look of a upward angled peak lapel.

 

[Ivar]

The lapels would probably look more to your liking if the button stance were lowered 1-2 inches. But they look decent enough. My problem with the suit is rather that the jacket is an inch or two too short.

 

[Zarium]

The lapels would probably look more to your liking if the button stance were lowered 1-2 inches. But they look decent enough. My problem with the suit is rather that the jacket is an inch or two too short.

Hmm, maybe half an inch too short. Definitely not an inch or two - if I remember correctly, I asked the tailor to shorten it by 1/2" during the second fitting session.

 

[Ivar]

I think your legs look disproportionately long in the first picture. But different strokes ...

 

[jmills]

Well, if you stress that you want peak lapels angled up, and they agree but don't deliver, then that is exactly the kind of crap that should cost them your patronage.

For what it's worth though, almost horizontal peaks aren't to my personal tastes . I don't like them when I see them. Yet what is pictured looks good to me. It might be worth hanging on to that one. Try to get the exciting angled peaks you want on another suit some time in the future.

 

[RDiaz]

I can't help with the issues you describe, but that jacket sure has a very nice cut. I love the built up chest.

2-roll-1 isn't a very good look IMO.

 

[benny]

that's a nice looking suit - who's your tailor?

 

[add911_11]

The suit you have looks pretty stylish, however I will not be satisfied with the trousers.

 

[Superfluous]

I think the issue you have starts with the length and buttoning point of the jacket and the height of the vest in relation to the jacket if it were lower (which I believe should follow the buttoning point by exposing 2 buttons possibly?). The difference between what you want and what you have is a higher buttoning point coupled with a shorter jacket, lapels without a belly and lower angled peaks. I might be strange, but my preferred buttoning point is right at my belly-button.

 

[Zarium]



that's a nice looking suit - who's your tailor?

Ah Loke in Kuala Lumpur. I believe there's a thread somewhere here about him.

The suit you have looks pretty stylish, however I will not be satisfied with the trousers.

I agree. I think he can do much better with the trousers. If and when I do use him again, I'll definitely focus more on the trousers.

I think the issue you have starts with the length and buttoning point of the jacket and the height of the vest in relation to the jacket if it were lower (which I believe should follow the buttoning point by exposing 2 buttons possibly?). The difference between what you want and what you have is a higher buttoning point coupled with a shorter jacket, lapels without a belly and lower angled peaks. I might be strange, but my preferred buttoning point is right at my belly-button.

Woah, the belly-button buttoning point is certainly not something I can do. I'm not very tall (5'8"), so I think half an inch lower from this jacket's buttoning point would be what's ideal.

 

[jamesny]

When take a photo like that the pinstripe just looks immaculate, but in a conservative environment/office I rarely see anyone wear the pinstripe anymore. But of course a moderate lapels would be best to even out the proportion.