Orban's - Cheap, affordable European made Goodyear Welted shoes

[terras14]

Anyone got any expeirence with orban loafer in 095 last?
Is it true to size or need to size down?

 

[am55]

After reading on the French SF (starts with D...) about Markowski's demise having been caused by Mr Fernandez having to sell it for personal reasons, and starting Orban to revive this spirit of a great entry level budget shoe, I pulled the trigger on boat shoes and some suede loafers.

The thread as a whole is interesting (I would link but I think it is bad etiquette here?) especially for the new type of rubber soles that Orban is using, which is ultra light and very resistant both to wear and dirt. Some used to leather complained about its softness, which is a positive to me as I spent several hours walking in my monks last week as a meeting became a social occasion and did not particularly enjoy the experience.

They will, apparently, be here in 3 days, which I highly doubt. Even if the shoes could fly to Asia in that time, SingPost would add a week to the ETA - I particularly enjoy the systematic failed delivery notice during times I am indeed at home (why bother calling after all, it's so much more efficient not to try).

 

[j ingevaldsson]

After reading on the French SF (starts with D...) about Markowski's demise having been caused by Mr Fernandez having to sell it for personal reasons, and starting Orban to revive this spirit of a great entry level budget shoe, I pulled the trigger on boat shoes and some suede loafers.

The thread as a whole is interesting (I would link but I think it is bad etiquette here?) especially for the new type of rubber soles that Orban is using, which is ultra light and very resistant both to wear and dirt. Some used to leather complained about its softness, which is a positive to me as I spent several hours walking in my monks last week as a meeting became a social occasion and did not particularly enjoy the experience.

They will, apparently, be here in 3 days, which I highly doubt. Even if the shoes could fly to Asia in that time, SingPost would add a week to the ETA - I particularly enjoy the systematic failed delivery notice during times I am indeed at home (why bother calling after all, it's so much more efficient not to try).

I think that the rubber sole is a bit too chunky and I don't like the integrated heel, but could be interesting if it's both soft and durable, especially for shoes in the entry level.

 

[yunBW]

Really interested about the brand. I'm a size 7Uk E width do you think 944 will fit me? I wear trickers fitting 5. Could you asking send me the link of your blog? Thanks!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[am55]

I've received my Orbans, here's my semi-detailed review.

First I have to say I was positively biased towards the brand. I liked Markowski and owned many pairs (some of which died in a mouldy garage as mentioned earlier). I like what Mr. Fernandez has done over and over for the French shoe industry. So it is hard for me to type this up, but I'm not entirely convinced.

The service was spotless. Vincent answered my questions about fit, and shipped the items very quickly, I think inside of a week after I paid. This is substantially less than I'm used to and whatever service they are using even managed to get SingPost to actually call me and deliver the package in person saving me a 1km walk after another phantom failed delivery.

I ordered two pairs of loafers: the Dragon boat shoes and the UCLA in suede.

The fit was drastically different between the two. Both were size 9.5. In both cases, the left foot feels much looser than the right, which has not happened with other shoe brands, including Meermin.

The Dragon is a very soft thick leather, low cut, which is quite comfortable. Unfortunately it was a very loose fit, with the shoes almost slipping off my feet and the heel slipping off every step. This is compounded by the different-foot-different-size problem - even with thick sports socks, the left foot still slips off.

It arrived with many marks on the leather:


If you click through you will notice:
- scratches on the top and on the side of the shoe
- close to the third of the shoe from the front, some weird folds and slightly older looking leather that imply this was worn

I asked Vincent about it by email (always give the merchant a chance) and he said it must have been damaged in transport. Well, it arrived in two well protected boxes themselves inside a bigger cardboard box, neither of which appeared to have been damaged. So, I must wonder whether I was sent a display pair or something.

Anyway, no biggie. I'm using a bit of essential cream and these are casual shoes anyway. Stuck a sole in them and they are at least wearable, appropriate for drinks in town when I don't care that much what I am wearing and I know I'll be walking quite a bit. They only cost 70 euros without the VAT.

Oh, talking of walking. That's exactly what I did. 500m to the MRT, 300m to the first bar, 500m to the second bar, 500m home from the MRT, all on dry pavement. Result:



Well, I guess that's why they are comfortable! Maybe they are better as indoor slippers?

So, we've established the Dragon is probably not a good idea. How about the UCLA for 50% more money?

They looked much better already:



Quick spray for waterproofing, half an hour waited, brush, most of the fluff on above picture disappears and voila, a comforting area of total light absorption on my feet.

I immediately noted that the back of the shoe is much higher, high enough to bite into the bone that sticks out on the side of my left ankle (but somehow not the right). Bad omen, although that's my problem this time, which I've encountered on my Churches. Unlike the Churches, the edge is not thin enough to create a blister quickly and I walked 2km to and from a client with no problem. First time with soles, second without. Hopefully it will soften and be less problematic over time.

The fit is MUCH tighter although these are nominally the same size (almost a 43 vs a 44-45 if it were the same shoe), which is why on the second run I didn't use the in-soles (which to be honest I only put in because I needed them with the Dragon). The rubber sole is also much harder than the Dragon's, effectively feeling a lot like leather but with better traction. It hasn't yet started peeling off, which is comforting. Without the in-soles, it's comfortable whilst remaining tight and easy to walk fast in, but the bone on side of ankle problem returns. Trade offs. The leather inside looks and feels good with no corners obviously cut.

I'm happy about the UCLA but not about the Dragon. I won't return it, because it costs too much money and effort.

Last point: Meermin offers (as Markowski used to) proper leather belts with contrast stitching. I love those. Orban's offers only the usual dual colour supermarket mall belts down to the big square metal buckle. I used to slip a belt in every shoe order to complement my collection - that's 50 euros Orban's could have had... and another push towards Meermin, which probably had my next order already as their shoes fit both my feet the same.

edit - putting a few more miles on them, the suede loafers became rapidly comfortable and softer, and I happily use them all the time. The Dragon are still too loose, but the sole has stopped stripping to pieces and the rest of the shoe is holding up fine.

 

[am55]

It's been a month and I'm now very happy with my purchase. The UCLA loosened up enough to become comfortable whilst retaining structure, and its sole is not peeling. The Dragon's sole has stopped peeling - it seems it was just the strips at the front and back that were particularly soft? Or maybe my walking style.

I might pick up another UCLA some time.

 

[Kingstonian]

Interesting brand name. Homage to the Hungarian prime minister?

 

[j ingevaldsson]

I now published my review of the Orban's Oxford Soho (pictured below) on my blog, for those interested.

 

[am55]



I now published my review of the Orban's Oxford Soho (pictured below) on my blog, for those interested.

Thank you for this. It's great to read an in depth, technical review including some data on usage. Your product photos are, again, very good which helps get a clear idea. It makes me want to read the rest of your blog (which I will do now).

For completeness' sake I will say that of my own Orban's, the suede loafers are now so comfortable as to be virtually slippers (but have kept an immaculate appearance) whilst the size of the Dragons, which increased with every wear, has caused me not to wear them anymore.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Thank you for this. It's great to read an in depth, technical review including some data on usage. Your product photos are, again, very good which helps get a clear idea. It makes me want to read the rest of your blog (which I will do now).

For completeness' sake I will say that of my own Orban's, the suede loafers are now so comfortable as to be virtually slippers (but have kept an immaculate appearance) whilst the size of the Dragons, which increased with every wear, has caused me not to wear them anymore.

Thanks for the kind words!

 

[rhone04]

following

 

[am55]

It has been almost three years so I thought I'd revisit the thread with long term impressions.

The upper has held up very well. The finishing is as solid as it looks good - much better, IMHO, than Meermin's more aesthetically utilitarian approach.

However, I find myself reaching for these shoes rarely, because they give me a fair bit of knee pain even after an hour or two that I don't get from other welted shoes, and I finally understood why:



I'm not an expert, but that looks to me like a solid (plastic?) heel block with some paste-on fake "side leather layers" (here peeling on the edge of the heel) to create the appearance of a stacked leather heel. Meermin, on the other hand (at least according to the Reddit MFA review) is a full leather construction. Not the cleanest, but it makes a huge difference in that I can wear my Meermins all day without foot pain.

 

[clee1982]

Well I was looking for rain days beater, this looks like a good choice...

 

[LiverFieldie]

I'm gonna bump this thread as it seems like the only Orban's thread here.

These are the Orban's "Wallaby" - they're kind of a Tyrolean style/dress Wallabee apron toe style thing. I was picking out some new winter shoes, and I'm cheap, and I came across Orban's (shortly after getting back from a Paris trip but without having visited them while there); tried to find some sizing info online, and did ultimately contact them via email for some sizing advice using my my Alden and RM Williams size as a reference. The response suggested EU42 in both models I was interested in. (Their size chart, for the record, would've put me in like an EU40 or something, which seemed insane). I wound up these "Wallaby" models in 42, and a pair of their "Oslo" plain toe bluchers in Aubergine, which is pretty close to No. 8 on the color scale. Shipping was fast, shoes arrived in boxes and chamois cloth shoe bags, et. etc. Anyway, on to the Wallaby.

I'm a sucker for this style, and have had many pairs of actual Wallabees and other apron toe shoes over the years. I probably should just go ahead and finally buy a pair of Michaels or Thuyas, but I'm a cheap bastard and continue to try to find "almost as good" for bargain prices while trying to score a pair of Paraboot or Heschungs on the cheap. The Orban's version is Norwegian welted. The brown leather is nice and thick. I gave them a condition and light polish with Saphir brown a bit ago.

The fit (for me) is a little strange: these are much longer wearing than a Paraboot Michael (which I have tried but not bought). I also have a pair of Kleman Padrors in chocolate suede in EU42 which are a nice fit for me, but probably are close to half an inch shorter overall despite being the same size. The Orban's are a wearable fit for me - heel pocket is pretty tight, width across ball of foot is good, but there's a good deal of space at the toe end. This last definitely seems to lean towards the 9.5US end of things, rather than my standard 9, and I'm sure had I tried them on in store I would've walked away with a UK 7.5. (The Oslo, on the other hand, fit very much like a US 9D, and are a nice, somewhat sleeker, riff on the cordovan color plain toe blucher; for reference, the Oslo fits me almost like an Alden Plaza last, which is pretty much my reference last for dress shoes.)

Because the Wallaby last is a longer, somewhat pointier last than the equivalent Michael or Padror, the effect is of the vamp seeming very long, especially if they're a little big for you to begin with. Anyway, the fit and finish is excellent, the leather seems excellent, the lug soles are decent though showing a bit more wear than I would guessed already after maybe 10 wears. They are an excellent value (mine were I think 125 euros on sale in January), but one should be careful with the sizing. If they were available in brown suede, I'd probably snatch up a pair in 7.5UK.

I'd be interested to hear more about anyone's experience with Orbans. I am tempted by their JM Weston 180-style loafers (called the "UCLA") cuz there's no way I'm dropping a grand on actual Westons, but I am perplexed by their size chart, and not sure I would pull the trigger without trying them on... which is unlikely since I won't be back in Paris anytime soon.