comrade
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For a bespoke take on Country Clothing look into Stewart Christie in Edinburgh.Has anyone said Charles Tyrwhitt yet? Not the sexiest option on the list, but has been my go-to for the past fifteen years. When I was a PhD student, I greatly took advantage of their bundle shirt deals and I'm pretty happy with the other staples they've since expanded into (knits, polos, proper tailoring, English-made shoes, etc.). All rather fuddy-duddy, I admit, but sort of by design and in a way that makes it hard for a non-enthusiast to go wrong.
I started going to The Hound during visits to San Francisco when I decided that my academic career had run its course and left to get my first big-boy job. The wares were just fine, and it was indeed a great one-stop shop, but there was some extra sentiment to it for me, as it symbolized me leaving being a previous life where I was miserable most of the time and entering one where I got to something fun and meaningful every day instead (and just so happened to require proper clothes). So of course they closed soon after...
-_- It sure felt like arriving at a party after it had already died down, but that's just the story of my life.
@comrade I always like your perspective, as you actually lived through the eras and social circles that we in 2023 refer back to. I've recently become a Cordings convert myself, after making fun of them for years. It started with one of their trouser promotions, and I really liked their high-waisted cut and massive selection of Brisbane Moss fabrics. I tried their 80/20 cotton/wool shirts next and again really liked the cut and fun selection of colors. What really sealed the deal for me though was, I started training in wingshooting seriously last year, and one of the other folks at the clay range was off to one of those estate pheasant shoots as someone else's guest. He was complaining about having to buy the proper attire (tweed jacket and plus-fours, shooting socks, Wellies, tie) and it didn't seem to me all that much different than how he likes to wear his camo hunting jackets to shoot sporting clays, so later that day I bought the Cordings shooting vest just to get a rise out of him. What was supposed to be a pricey joke actually ended up being a really nifty durable garment, and I ended up getting a lot more of Cordings's sportier offerings and actually use them as originally intended. To my surprise it all holds up very well, and there's no need to treat them with kid gloves. They weren't particularly expensive in the grand scheme of things either.
You are right though that their tailored jackets are a bit too Torie and even their "city" suits wouldn't be my first choice, or any choice for that matter, but I think their distinctive house style works well for their country jackets. I ended up getting their house check shooting jacket, with the action shoulders and big bellows pockets for your ammo, and it works great as a practical fall/winter garment. You might even be able to go shooting in it.
They don't have shoes or socks though so that limits them as a one-stop place. House of Bruar, their Scottish competitor up north, however, does, which provides a bit more versatility for folks who like outdoor rural pursuits, albeit with the tradeoff that they don't have as large a selection in the hyper-classic styles that Cordings focuses on.
Popped into their place when I was there six years ago. Their RTW had the built-
up shoulders I do not like and the fabrics mostly too heavy for Northern California.
Nevertheless, they had some gorgeous tweeds and I saw some samples w/ more natural
shoulders. My long-suffering wife kept me from lingering too long.
Stewart Christie & Co - Bespoke Specialist Tailors, Edinburgh Scotland
Stewart Christie & Co oldest tailor in Scotland. Men's & ladies outfitters. Bespoke tailors, tweed, wool and highland wear specialists 0131 225 6639.
www.stewartchristie.com