On Pants

[Victor Elfo]

Thank you very much for your input!

I am sorry to disturb but I will overload you with questions...
How I should deal with the high hip? The left side needs to be cut higher? If I let the thigh looser the front problem will be solved? The butt problem can the solved if that area is shortened?
The thigh does not feel tight, but it is not comfortable. The crotch is fine.


Edit:
Here is the RTW trouser. It is not that bad, considering the pedigree.
The high hip is really obvious in the first photograph and what should be the cause of the rumple behind the pocket at the third photo?

 

[Craig Lawson]

Great article

 

[malabar]

A problem that I have seen consistently with my pants, no matter if RTW, MTM or bespoke is that the waist band on the front gets crushed. Now, I have a bit of a belly . Is the solution to have a higher rise or are there other methods?

 

[Louis XIV]

I have noticed that traditional tailors refer to rise as outseam minus inseam.
Modern businesses, no matter if they sell RTW trousers or offer MTM seem to exclusively work with front and back rise as well as inseam.
What is the reason for this change in practice and how did traditional tailors balance the seam lenghts that are nowadays referred to as back rise (length from crotch to the top of the back of the waistband) and front rise (length from the crotch to the top of the front of the waistband)?

 

[a tailor]

Hey Louis XIV

The true rise is measured in a straight line not on a curve.
Go to search and ask for 'tailors technical tutorials".
Scroll down to ."the rise".
Looking at a trouser you can see that the back is higher than the front.
The use of a front and back rise is for comparisons.
The cutters know what the patterns measurements are.
They then can make an educated guess as the front to back angle of
the waist band.

Think about the fellow who wears his belt buckle under his belly.

 

[DonRaphael]

I'm going to resurrect this thread. Could I have some feedback on the fit of these trousers? 'm trying to improve the fit for my next order with Luxire and here are the problems I'm experiencing:
- Front not clean.
- Trousers not falling cleanly over the shoes.
- Trousers crawling up between the butt cheeks resulting in disrupted lines at the back.
- What looks to be like to much room around the pockets and front (to the left of the crotch in the first picture). Also, I feel like, at least when standing, there's to much room around the hip area. But I'm afraid of decreasing it because as you can see, the trousers are already riding up between the butt cheeks. On the other hand, not tightening the seat area makes the trousers look like they're "sagging".

I'm not sure what alterations to ask for, but I'm considering one of the following two routes:

1
- Increase back rise at the crotch by 0,25" to remedy the problem of the trousers riding up between the butt cheeks.
- Scoop out the seat by 0,25" for the same reason as above.
- Slanted/military hem. Decrease front length by 0,25" and increase back length by 0,5" resulting in a 0,75" slant.

2
- Increase back rise at the crotch by 0,25" to remedy the problem of the trousers riding up between the butt cheeks.
- Scoop out the seat by 0,5" for the same reason as above. Note, this is 0,25" MORE than alternative 1.
- Slanted/military hem. Decrease front length by 0,25" and increase back length by 0,5" resulting in a 0,75" slant.
- Decrease half hip measurement at front by 0,25" to tighten the front seat area. I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look around the pockets.
- Decrease half hip measurement at the back by 0,25" to tighten the back seat area. I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look around the pockets.
- Decrease front rise by 0,25". I'm imagining this will render a cleaner look as well.
- Increase back rise at waist by 0,25" in order to give my butt/back a little more room in addition to the first alteration under this alternative (2).

What do you guys suggest? I'd appreciate your feedback.