New Suit. Meat Enclosed. Lots of Pics.

[T4phage]

Nice suit Tom.
Some quick comments:
Since this is the first time you have worn the suit, break it in first and the photos will give a truer representation.

1) Pitch of the right sleeve may need to be adjusted so that the back will not wrinkle. If it is not the pitch (since I can't see thru the cloth) it could be the shape of that sleeve that needs to be altered.

2) Yes, the pants need alterations, but did you pull the front higher than usual? (I remember one of your previous posts with pics of trousers.. a poster asked if the back was higher than the front...)

3) 3 roll 2.5 vs 2 button. I am not that tall and most of my suits are 3 roll 2.5. I do not think that the # of buttons per se gives the illusion of height, rather it is the buttoning position. Yours is great. If you do decide to do a 2 button, keep the buttoning position as is. If you lower it, you will lose the harmony of the top "v" and the lower 'v', you will expose more shirt, and you will lose the illusion of length of your legs.

4) Gorge height. I like it, and I do not believe it is too high. It is high, but not crazy. One thing I would do is add a slight belly because it would harmonise with the shape of your chest. It will not harm the overall look of the coat, and it is not anthetical to the suit's 'dna'

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eg:

 

[tiger02]

Lots of great feedback overnight, thanks guys. No need to apologize with any of it; I wouldn't be asking for input if I had thin skin. To clear up about the excess fabric in the back: it's supposed to be there, and it lets the suit move beautifully. I have as much freedom of maneuver in this as I do in a sweater. Too much waist suppression is an interesting comment and I will keep it in mind for the next time. Jan, I do like the look of the lapel you posted so may go that route. I think that some of the problems with the pants are also due to how I wear them. With my body shape (maybe not just mine, I really don't know) it's a ***** to get pants to sit anywhere other than on my hip bones. My belt is really cranked to hold them at my natural waist. It's very possible that one side or the other has slipped a bit from where it would look best. I am also going to see about slimming them down a little bit in the thigh. I cannot recall the weight of the cloth, but I would put it at 10 - 12 oz. Maybe someone knows what the weight is of a 130s Guabella? Maxnharry, the tie was caught on the jacket. Fixed. Matt, I think about women all the time so I appreciate her comment. I like the Dung but will eventually relegate it to casual/fashion forward use only.

 

[kolecho]

I agree that some fullness in the back is needed to allow freedom of movement. I've had suits with ultra clean backs that I have trouble dining in. Not fun. Once you fix the pants, it is a pretty good 1st cut from this tailor.

Also good thing you kept the tailor anonymous for unbiased feedback.

 

[wedgehead98]

Sorry guys...trying hard to comprehend, searched for a definition, read multiple posts, and still don't quite understand exactly what is meant by the term "gorge".

 

[wedgehead98]

Never mind...I finally found the answer on the 3rd page of this exact thread. Duh.

 

[Artisan Fan]

You didn't ask, but I wouldn't piss on that tie if it was on fire (I won't even get into the crappy knot)

+1

 

[Tampan]

This is a nice suit! I was loving the blue-grey but the actual grey colour is also very rich. The waist suppression is strong but I like it that way too. From other posts, I like the no-cuffs (or smaller cuffs?) and bellied lapel ideas. The gorge is high, but surely won't appear that way to taller observers. And mid-sized folks can just go feel small. I like that.

Trouser length is great. Having the drape in back instead of in front is unusual (I've never seen that), but yet it still looks like a good fit, since it is draping and not crumpling.

Very good for a first suit from a particular tailor! It'll be killer once the seat is sorted out.

 

[johnnyblazini]

Originally Posted by Artisan Fan

+1

Which tie are we talking about? There are 2?

Btw, Tiger, what type of knot is that..? Looks like an funky carrot knot...?

Also, I may have missed this, but who made that suit?