New Leather Oxfords: Is this cracking normal/acceptable?

[kmb]

I just received some new black leather oxfords that came in the mail. I was looking them over and noticed there's some visible cracking, albeit minor, on part of the shoe. Is this something normal that some leather care will take care of, or should I be getting an exchange?

 

[GBR]

Have you worn them and what make?

 

[DWFII]

Normal, maybe...for some brands. Acceptable? Not so much...at least not in my opinion.

That said, these kind of issues are most often seen when the leather is not best quality and there is an opaque finish ("paint job") on the surface. The leather itself stretches unevenly and the finish cracks...or doesn't adhere evenly to the underlying surface.

 

[IChen]

Acceptable? Not really.

Exchange or return? Yes.

 

[Count de Monet]

... The leather itself ... doesn't adhere evenly to the underlying surface.

@DWFII , is that the phenomenon known as "break" or am I thinking of something else?

 

[DWFII]

I would not call it that but I would not be surprised if others did. It is certainly descriptive of what is going on.

 

[Count de Monet]

Thanks. I didn't make clear I wasn't describing the "fracturing" visible on the surface but rather a term I think Skip Horween used to describe (I think) different strata of the leather moving differently at the vamp and other stress points.

 

[kmb]

Thanks for the replies. They haven't been worn and are from Kent Wang. There are already a few other problems with this particular pair for which I'll send them back (seems like QC skipped this pair). But this particular issue made me wonder if the shoes themselves aren't as good of quality as advertised. The description on the site says they are as good of quality as shoes twice their price (so $700), and I don't imagine I'd see this on C&J or the like. But I'm not that knowledgeable when it comes to leather.

 

[DWFII]

Thanks. I didn't make clear I wasn't describing the "fracturing" visible on the surface but rather a term I think Skip Horween used to describe (I think) different strata of the leather moving differently at the vamp and other stress points.

Well, being in the tanning industry Skip may use terminology that a shoemaker wouldn't. And what Skip is referring to is, indeed, what I was talking about, as well. Suffice it to say it happens more...and more readily...with flanky or sub-par leather.

When I think of a "break" I think of a change in direction of the pattern or piece of leather. For instance, in my world, where the leg of a pull-on boot meets the angle of the vamp (right there at the ankle/top-of-instep) is called the "break." And that spot on the blocking board is also sometimes called the "break."

 

[ThomGault]

The description on the site says they are as good of quality as shoes twice their price (so $700),

Sounds like marketing puffery to me.

 

[Belfaborac]

Ah, but they literally guarantee it! Surely you're not suggesting that they would....lie?

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[Friedmett]

You get what you pay for with shoes. I would send them back too. Properly would not last long in my book.