Navy Blazer by Committee (aka Garment by Groupthink)

[bdavro23]

I've had a lovely piece of cloth from Dormeuil in a wool/ mohair hopsack waiting to be made up for a few months now. I currently have a navy wool/ cotton herringbone jacket with a soft shoulder, 3 roll 2 and patch pockets, and a Lambswool/ Cashmere blend jacket in the same configuration, except it has a shirt shoulder. They are both pretty soft and casual and I like them both. I have been thinking that I "need" a more formal Navy jacket, so I have been playing around with different ideas for this piece of cloth. Here's where I'm at currently, and there may be some Tom Ford influence going on right now:

• One Button (Either MOP or maybe flat gold)
• Peak lapel
• Roped shoulder
• Patch or Besom pockets
• Side Vents

I have a couple of peak lapel suits, but no jackets. I thought it might be fun to do something different, but I also dont want an abomination on my hands. I asked my wife (who couldnt care less about any of this) what she thought, and she said I should go ask my internet friends... So, I thought I would discuss with the managing committee and see what thoughts you guys have for a formal Navy jacket. Discuss...

 

[sood]

internet friends

 

[yanagi]

I think these days any blazer is high up on the lay formality scale, even if it has casual features like a shirt shoulder and patch pockets. That said, I suppose you could go for a double-breasted blazer with (default) peak lapels, a roped shoulder, and besom pockets.

 

[bry2000]

DB 6x2. flap pockets, welted breast pocket.

or a little different, more casual: DB, 4x2, 3 open patch pockets.

Whatever shoulder you want.

 

[jdp234]

I've had a lovely piece of cloth from Dormeuil in a wool/ mohair hopsack waiting to be made up for a few months now. I currently have a navy wool/ cotton herringbone jacket with a soft shoulder, 3 roll 2 and patch pockets, and a Lambswool/ Cashmere blend jacket in the same configuration, except it has a shirt shoulder. They are both pretty soft and casual and I like them both. I have been thinking that I "need" a more formal Navy jacket, so I have been playing around with different ideas for this piece of cloth. Here's where I'm at currently, and there may be some Tom Ford influence going on right now:

• One Button (Either MOP or maybe flat gold)
• Peak lapel
• Roped shoulder
• Patch or Besom pockets
• Side Vents

I have a couple of peak lapel suits, but no jackets. I thought it might be fun to do something different, but I also dont want an abomination on my hands. I asked my wife (who couldnt care less about any of this) what she thought, and she said I should go ask my internet friends... So, I thought I would discuss with the managing committee and see what thoughts you guys have for a formal Navy jacket. Discuss...

I don't really love the idea of a SB peak lapel blazer for some reason (I generally don't like SB peak odd jackets period, and it seems wrong for a blazer in particular). But if you do, besom pockets, patch pockets would just be wrong on a Fordish uber-sharp coat.

That said I think a structured, roped shoulder, tight armhole, notch single button blazer would look very nice.

 

[usctrojans31]

I have a navy peak lapel blazer. Other than my tuxedo, it gets the least wear.

Gold buttons always feel so fuddy duddy to me. Holland & Sherry has some neat button makeups.

Other details seem solid.

 

[emptym]

I think single button, peak lapel jackets can work for a younger guy's fun suits or maybe a velvet sport coat for parties.

But, for your purpose and fabric, I'd go with notch lapels, pick stitching, two patch pockets, and natural shoulders. Imo, one, two, or three buttons would be fine for the front. You could start with one and add more if you want. And single or side vents would be fine imo, but I'd go with side too.

 

[bdavro23]

I think single button, peak lapel jackets can work for a younger guy's fun suits or maybe a velvet sport coat for parties.

For this, I'd go with notch lapels, pick stitching, two patch pockets, and natural shoulders. Imo, one, two, or three buttons would be fine for the front. You could start with one and add more if you want. And single or side vents would be fine imo, but I'd go with side too.

I love the jacket you are describing, but I feel like I have two examples of this style. The only difference would be if I used a different shoulder treatment on this one. I havent ruled out a notch, but I was looking for a more formal, perhaps more structured style than my usual coats.

 

[bdavro23]

I think these days any blazer is high up on the lay formality scale, even if it has casual features like a shirt shoulder and patch pockets. That said, I suppose you could go for a double-breasted blazer with (default) peak lapels, a roped shoulder, and besom pockets.

Double breasted is not an option. I run far too hot for that and the open double breasted look doesnt do it for me.

 

[comrade]

• One Button (Either MOP or maybe flat gold)
• Peak lapel
• Roped shoulder
• Patch or Besom pockets
• Side Vents

Aside from the side vents and possibly the besom pockets,
I would eliminate all other options. As for Tom Ford, Ditto.

 

[vida]

I know the Tom Ford jacket and it is sharp, but that look may be farther down the line (blazer 5 or 6) in terms of usefulness due to its appearance.
My suggestion: 2 button, flap pockets with a ticket pocket, high armholes, clean chest, double vents.

 

[dieworkwear]

IMO, silhouette trumps stylistic details. Instead of trying to fill a hole by messing with the details, I would stick with the same details -- notch lapel, 3/2 roll, and patch pockets -- and just get a different silhouette.

 

[zr3rs]

Bespoke example, single button, 450g Fox hopsack

 

[bdavro23]

IMO, silhouette trumps stylistic details. Instead of trying to fill a hole by messing with the details, I would stick with the same details -- notch lapel, 3/2 roll, and patch pockets -- and just get a different silhouette.

This is pretty good advice. Most of my jackets these days are pretty soft, and I was sort of picturing this one as more structured. Thats what led me to the roped shoulder, more formal vibe, but I can see your point about not changing everything.

I'll start looking for some images of structured notch, 3/2 jackets.

 

[norMD]

Maybe something like this from liverano, but in navy?
Gusvs9 also has some nice looking jackets.