Narrow Shoulders?

[Daniel Hakimi]

I tried on a few suits (Suitsupply, Canali, Bonobos, a few others) and generally notice that, for a comfortable chest size, the shoulders tend to be a little wide. I'm still hoping to find a good brand off the rack (preferrably in the $300-700 range, up to $1000 if I have to) with relatively narrow shoulders. I'm not *opposed* to MTM, but if I can find the right fit off the rack, that'd be ideal. I'm headed into Manhattan tomorrow to try stuff on. I'll stop by the Brioni sample sale, even though I doubt I'll find quite what I need.

Any recommendations? I've heard Brooks Brothers might have something that fits me a ltitle better.

 

[useless_username]

I tried on a few suits (Suitsupply, Canali, Bonobos, a few others) and generally notice that, for a comfortable chest size, the shoulders tend to be a little wide. I'm still hoping to find a good brand off the rack (preferrably in the $300-700 range, up to $1000 if I have to) with relatively narrow shoulders. I'm not *opposed* to MTM, but if I can find the right fit off the rack, that'd be ideal. I'm headed into Manhattan tomorrow to try stuff on. I'll stop by the Brioni sample sale, even though I doubt I'll find quite what I need.

Any recommendations? I've heard Brooks Brothers might have something that fits me a ltitle better.

Could it be that your notion of a 'comfortable chest size' is just too big, leading you to select coats with excessively wide shoulders? Try going one size down and see how the chest/shoulders feel. Chest and shoulders cannot be altered, so they're the priority in terms of fit.

I'm not sure how much MTM can help, if you indeed have an unusual body shape. MTM can usually take account of things like forward shoulders, but there are limits to what is possible.

Good luck.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

I do try to size down, see if that works... But usually, that feels a bit tight in the chest and, for most brands I've tried, too slim (or way too loose, in the case of a few brands/fits)... Probably the best fit I've found so far is Bonobos in 38S, classic fit. But I don't suppose that compares favorably to other stuff in its price range, huh?

 

[useless_username]

If sizing down makes your chest feel constricted, it's probably the wrong size.

A trip to Brooks Brothers might be a good idea (I think Madison Ave. is the flagship). They're known for a more traditional and roomier cut, which you might need. Some of the brands you mentioned above are focused on slim fitting suits, and to be frank, that works for very few people.

In any case, I would try on many coats at different stores, take notes on the ones that fit you best, and hold off on any purchases now. Spend some time comparing options.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

Yeah. I've compared a good number of options, but I suppose I should keep looking. Then again, I want to have something ready for an interview, so maybe I'll buy that BB suit sooner rather than later.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

Oh, one more question -- they have a lot of corny-looking trademarked names like "BrooksCloud" and **** like that. I assume those are mostly a little gimmicky?

 

[useless_username]

Oh, one more question -- they have a lot of corny-looking trademarked names like "BrooksCloud" and **** like that. I assume those are mostly a little gimmicky?

I don't know. A big company like BB has multiple lines to appeal to different kinds of clients. I'm sure the shop staff know about these.

For interviews and such, just keep it simple. Very simple. There are a million old threads on interview-appropriate attire, just use the search function. The hiring manager will be far more interested in your skills than on the cut of your suit.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

I don't know. A big company like BB has multiple lines to appeal to different kinds of clients. I'm sure the shop staff know about these.

For interviews and such, just keep it simple. Very simple. There are a million old threads on interview-appropriate attire, just use the search function. The hiring manager will be far more interested in your skills than on the cut of your suit.

Oh yeah, I know I'm looking for a traditional plain dark charcoal suit. But I've definitely heard that some hiring partners care that much about presentation. And attorneys in manhattan... A lot of them will, in fact, know what they're looking at.

 

[papado]

Oh, one more question -- they have a lot of corny-looking trademarked names like "BrooksCloud" and **** like that. I assume those are mostly a little gimmicky?

They are somewhat gimmicky and by the description they appear to be basically fused and ridiculously priced so I would stay away.

I recommend to sticking to their regular 1818 line which you should be able to get on sale closer to your price range. Assuming you buy one in the right size, you'll look sharp and in the event of a super 'uppity' interviewing attorney you'll be fine. I'd hope no matter how much one cares about appearance, they should know if it's your first job you won't have the $ to be buying $3k+ suits (not to mention I'm sure you'll find partners with 7 figure salaries who still can't buy a suit that fits them; welcome to the real world outside of styleforum )

Also note suitsupply has different models and have different shoulder widths--the Washington and others (lazio/napoli) with more defined shoulders have wider shoulders for the size; you may need one of the other fits if that is your only issue.

 

[jdp234]

Could you describe what you mean when you say the shoulders on properly sized (for your chest) jackets are “a little wide”?

I think a lot of basic menswear advice wrongly convinces people that jacket shoulders should always and everywhere end exactly at your shoulder bone. That simply isn’t the case. There are plenty of extremely well dressed people on this board and in real life who regularly wear jackets with shoulder extension. It’s much more a matter of physical proportion with your head and waist than anything else. A picture of me wearing a jacket with significant shoulder extension, 3/4” at least on each side, is attached as an additional reference. It is one of my most “thumbed” fit pics from the WAYW thread, so either everyone is suffering mass delusion or shoulder extension has gotten an undeserved bad rap.

If the problem with the jackets you are trying on is that they don’t pass the “wall test”—which has no real basis—but otherwise look proportional and attractive, then buy them and enjoy wearing them.

Perhaps post pictures, as well, to help us gauge whether your perception that the shoulders are too wide is accurate.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

Could you describe what you mean when you say the shoulders on properly sized (for your chest) jackets are “a little wide”?

I think a lot of basic menswear advice wrongly convinces people that jacket shoulders should always and everywhere end exactly at your shoulder bone. That simply isn’t the case. There are plenty of extremely well dressed people on this board and in real life who regularly wear jackets with shoulder extension. It’s much more a matter of physical proportion with your head and waist than anything else. A picture of me wearing a jacket with significant shoulder extension, 3/4” at least on each side, is attached as an additional reference. It is one of my most “thumbed” fit pics from the WAYW thread, so either everyone is suffering mass delusion or shoulder extension has gotten an undeserved bad rap.

View attachment 939577

If the problem with the jackets you are trying on is that they don’t pass the “wall test”—which has no real basis—but otherwise look proportional and attractive, then buy them and enjoy wearing them.

Perhaps post pictures, as well, to help us gauge whether your perception that the shoulders are too wide is accurate.

You know, this is what I needed to hear. I have heard, fairly often, that the seam should essentially be right there. And given the difficulty of tailoring shoulders, I have been a little panicked about it.

Brooks Brothers was a bit of a bust... The shoulders were no better than anywhere else, and the cut just wasn't for me. So I'm actually leaning back towards SuitSupply, and the only question is which line to get... But I think I'll go with the blue line.