my visit to Napoli & Mina @ Napoli Su Misura

[Grammaton Cleric]



I'm at the same point with one of my jackets. The changes are slow (which is ok) and are not having much of an effect (which is not ok). I can't say whether it is a result of growth. My first order was in 2010 or 2011, and while I liked what they made there were definitely issues with consistency even at that time (I can show pictures of two jackets ordered and delivered at the same time which are very, very different from one another). I just stack it up to their business model. I think that they are offering a decent product that really is bespoke in every sense of the word at a very low price comparatively. The trade-off for that is that things are expected to come out pretty good, but not necessarily great and certainly not perfect. At least that is my experience. I think of it as affordable or low-end bespoke and I think it serves a very useful place in the universe of bespoke clothing. It just isn't for me. I would rather pay more and know that I am going to get exactly what I've ordered exactly as I've ordered it.

+10 - sadly, the same experience here. I love Mina and Dino - great, great people and I wish them the best. I have several garments from them (placed my first order in early 2011), but sadly, every item comes out a bit different than the last one. It is frustrating, and I hope they work out this issue.

 

[MrChris]



Just got back from a fitting with NSM in Stockholm. Very happy with the results so far. This was the second fitting for a couple of SCs and a few minor changes had to be made, but Mina offered to ship the garments out with a courier when the changes had been made. I appreciate this because then I can wear the garments a few times before their next visit to Stockholm in July (preliminary), and any further alterations can be made then, but I don't think/hope that will be necessary. I also had my first fitting for two more SCs. Brought two pairs of trousers home today thought, first impression is very positive.

I really enjoy my visits to NSM, I believe this was my fourth. They are friendly and relaxed, they take their time and provide feedback and suggestions when they see fit. I'm not anal about a perfect fit or flawless craftsmanship (I'm not saying it's wrong to be, I'm just saying I'm not) and I don't always have an eye for those really subtle craftsmanship/fitting details. I'm after good comfort and an appealing garment. This far I am very happy with their services and placed an order for several more items.

I'll make sure to post some pictures when I recieve the altered garments, I hope you don't mind me rambling, hopefully it can provide useful feedback for other SFers even though my post did not contain any pics.

I've also used the set-up with garments shipped to me in between visits, gives you an opportunity to try them out before possible alterations are beeing made and it also shortens the lead times.
I agree with your opinion about them beeing very friendly and flexible to come up with solutions to satisfy your needs.

 

[Concordia]

At their best NsM shirts are very fine-- and have taught me a few things about fit that I've since come to ask from Ascot Chang. Also, before they switched tailors, their trousers were very good. Not genius-driven like Ambrosi, but effective and very well made.

I think the biggest problem is that the cutters and makers aren't the one doing the trips. So while they take excellent notes, the odd video, etc., and care a lot about good results, at the end of the day it's a bit of a game of "telephone" with the workshop. Also, they do seem to slot in different makers. Whether there's a rotating roster or they just keep firing people is an open question, but after they put together a fairly successful shirt pattern for me, there was an unaccounted-for change. Not an intentional one, but the next batch did fit differently and had different-feeling collars. Getting back to something as effective as the old pattern took a few tries. It's actually better now in many ways, but I have yet to be convinced about consistency.

Let's hope. I like them a lot and it's a good service to be offering.

 

[dieworkwear]



At their best NsM shirts are very fine-- and have taught me a few things about fit that I've since come to ask from Ascot Chang. Also, before they switched tailors, their trousers were very good. Not genius-driven like Ambrosi, but effective and very well made.

I think the biggest problem is that the cutters and makers aren't the one doing the trips. So while they take excellent notes, the odd video, etc., and care a lot about good results, at the end of the day it's a bit of a game of "telephone" with the workshop. Also, they do seem to slot in different makers. Whether there's a rotating roster or they just keep firing people is an open question, but after they put together a fairly successful shirt pattern for me, there was an unaccounted-for change. Not an intentional one, but the next batch did fit differently and had different-feeling collars. Getting back to something as effective as the old pattern took a few tries. It's actually better now in many ways, but I have yet to be convinced about consistency.

Let's hope. I like them a lot and it's a good service to be offering.

Curious, what about your Ambrosi trousers do you like better than NSM's? Also curious about what you had changed on your Ascot Chang pattern, if you care to share.

 

[Concordia]



Curious, what about your Ambrosi trousers do you like better than NSM's?

Ambrosi builds in a really remarkable taper toward the cuff that's hard to measure but easy to spot. It looks especially fantastic with loafers, without being wrong for lace-ups. NsM has slightly more cylindrical legs toward the bottom.
Ambrosi really is a prodigy. My first pair try-on with him was something of a disaster. I'd asked for something about as loose as my SR-made trousers, but what he produced was too tight, too short, the pockets were in the wrong place, etc. He just looked at it while I was wearing it and said "OK." No chalk, no pins, no notes. And the final pair came out pretty much perfect without other alterations. Not his usual product, but very nice.
This might be a good time to remind everyone that Mina not only travels regularly to several American cities, but charges a bit less than Ambrosi now costs.

Also curious about what you had changed on your Ascot Chang pattern, if you care to share.

Nothing radical, but there is a higher collar than I would previously have asked for (and what a London maker was explicitly unwilling to attempt at all). Good thing, because my A&S jackets have collars so high that they were starting to bury my shirts from Dege and Lachter (and Charvet ). Otherwise the NsM shirts have classic semi-spread collars that look nice with DB suits, as well as unbuttoned without collar stays.

The NsM sleeves have a fantastic amount of length on the outer seam. It makes bending the elbow and moving the arm remarkably irrelevant to the cuff's placement on the wrist. At the outset I did have to ask repeatedly for more room (chest, shoulder blades, middle of arm, and so on). But what they ended up doing, while very different from a London shirt, has none of the stereotypical vices of the Italian model. I won't screw up my Ascot Chang pattern by asking for an exact copy, but I was able to improve their fit by getting pleats on the sides of the back, and 3/4" longer sleeves with tighter (but not Italian-tight) cuffs.
(I'm reminded of my only order from Paris, where I asked for a bit more freedom of movement so I could, say, tie my shoes without having the cuffs wind up at my elbow. Atam refused, pointing out that his clients' jackets were so badly tailored that it was pointless to have a shirt sleeve behave properly. I misquote, but that's essentially what he said.)

Also, extra-long tails with room for an extra button on the placket below the waistline made for a pleasant discovery. A schlong-high surprise, as it were. It keeps the shirts from trying to scoot over the waistband, and generally feels more substantial and luxurious. Just the weight of two extra inches of cotton or linen makes for a calmer day. I don't know if that is Mina and Dino's usual, or if they dreamed it up to keep the loose-shirt American happy. But for the moment, it feels nice and has improved the feel of the Ascot Chang product. Oddly, Charvet shirts never had to go quite that long to feel well-cut. But everyone's got a different angle on the problem.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks for that, Concordia. I've seen Ambrosi's trousers, but admit I haven't noticed anything special about the taper. I'll try to pay a bit more attention next time.

I also like longer tails and higher collars on shirts. Kabbaz once mentioned the latter in some YouTube video. I think it's more of the extra button that the length allows, as he said that clients could see what a difference this makes by simply pinning one's own existing shirt below the last button.

In any case, thanks for sharing.

 

[quar]

Are you guys using NSM fabrics for shirts? Or bringing your own?

 

[Concordia]



Are you guys using NSM fabrics for shirts? Or bringing your own?

So far, I've just used theirs. I don't think there's a huge discount for CMT, and they have some good selections (Sic Tess, Mason's better stuff, and a few others).

 

[jerrybrowne]

Has anyone else noticed a decrease in handwork on their shirts? My last batch were almost 100% machine made? Only the shoulders were attached by hand.

 

[SartodiNapoli]



Has anyone else noticed a decrease in handwork on their shirts? My last batch were almost 100% machine made? Only the shoulders were attached by hand.

And you paid for a real shirt but got a basic one?

 

[jerrybrowne]



And you paid for a real shirt but got a basic one?

Yes.

 

[imatlas]

Does NsM take payment up front, upon delivery, or half/half?

 

[poorsod]



Has anyone else noticed a decrease in handwork on their shirts? My last batch were almost 100% machine made? Only the shoulders were attached by hand.

I only have 1 shirt from NSM years ago, and it was 100% machine made other than for the handsew buttons. How did you get them to hand make it for you? I was never offered that option.

 

[Griffindork]

My NSM shirts have have hands stitched shoulder seems and armholes. Can't remember if collar is handstitched. The long seams aren't. There is a lot of hand-stitching on them.

 

[jerrybrowne]



My NSM shirts have have hands stitched shoulder seems and armholes. Can't remember if collar is handstitched. The long seams aren't. There is a lot of hand-stitching on them.

+1. Shoudler seams, arm holes and collars on previous orders were handstitched. Not sure what has happened.