My New suit with alterations. Opinions please

[TheDarkKnight]

Hi All,

So this is a Navy Gucci 38 chest I have had altered slightly. The sleeves were shortened to my wrist bone/ wrist hinge, and the jacket tapered in a little.

The shoulder pads could fit better as there is bunching at the top of the arm on the sleeve, but not badly.

Also the lapels sit open from my chest slightly, as you can see in the side view (my apologies in advance for my expression )

The jacket has room for a fist between my stomach and the buttoned part, so is fitted but not too tight.

The look I'm going for is a modern Italian slim look, slightly modish, but not extreme slim fit fashion, more classical.

I'm age 32, 5'10 and around 152 pounds

This is typical of what I would wear to work - I'm a Financial adviser, so must dress very well.

Opinions on the fit of the suit please, as I have 2 further suits being altered at the moment.

TDK

 

[Azure]

I use some Cornelianis that look same! I also use the same collar but I don´t like 5 cms collars!

I liked your tie too! nice look but seems too wrinkled? The pants should be shortened to avoid those wrinkles right?

I don´t like Guccis or Tom Fords, but I like your style, try another brand!

 

[GQBaller]

I not a fan of the tie or the black suit, but that's your call.

Regarding the fit, the shirt seems too big (collar isn't tight enough and the overall fit is too blousy)

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Hi,

The pants were shorter as being such a slim fit I wanted barely a break, but then lost my nerve, and had them taken down again

Perhaps 1/3 inch up

Thanks re the tie, yes it needs steaming I had it badly folded while travelling with work

What other designers would you recommend please Azure, in a similiar fit and style? Ideally I would have liked double vents. (my other suits being altered are Gucci too, however I will be being 1 -2 more in the next few weeks)

 

[GQBaller]

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

What other designers would you recommend please Azure, in a similiar fit and style? Ideally I would have liked double vents. (my other suits being altered are Gucci too, however I will be being 1 -2 more in the next few weeks)

Ralph Lauren Black Label.

 

[instep]

Quite nice!

 

[Big A]

Looks pretty good. I think the side shot indicates you need the shoulders rotated a bit to get rid of that crease and allow the upper arm to hang more naturally. Also the collar is a bit off - tell your tailor you want to get rid of the gap

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by Big A

Looks pretty good. I think the side shot indicates you need the shoulders rotated a bit to get rid of that crease and allow the upper arm to hang more naturally. Also the collar is a bit off - tell your tailor you want to get rid of the gap

Ah this is something I don't know about, so does that mean the shoulder is rotated forward, pulling the back up? Thanks for the pointer

The tailor didn't offer any suggestions on fixing this - as I pointed it out. I will be using a new tailor for my new suits however.

Yeah the shirt collar is a little big now, I've not had any part of the shirt altered however.

In future would it be a good idea to buy a shirt slightly larger like the one in these photos, to give room for it to be tailored in? I always seem stuck between sizes and buy the smaller (and often too small) one.

Thanks

TDK

 

[clee1982]

Looks pretty good, except the side, something is off. As for the pants, I would personally take up a bit, I would go for the no break look on this kind of suit, much cleaner, or if you must have break, make it absolutely minimal.

By the way most people here don't think Gucci is a good buy, but I personally think it's decent buy if you can have it at decent discount (same thing with Tom Ford, wouldn't pay retail, but if anyone can find good discount on TF, I would certainly buy it).

I have Gucci/Versace/RLBL/Richard James/RLPL (only jacket for RLPL). RLBL is quite different from this one though, button stance would be much lower than this. You should give it a shot.

Some people will probably suggest Isaia as well, but I can't get that to work right for me, maybe you should give it a shot. Another one I would try is Kilgour, especially their one button suit, or you can go for the 2 button ones, but then it's not quite the Kilgour signature look.

edit: if you want it to be sleek, I would change the shoe to an wholecut or a oxford, somehow derby is just a bit off for my personal taste, but that's my personal taste. As to suit color, I would say, now you have 1 in navy, maybe charocal, grey with some texture, possibly pinestripe to mix up a bit.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

So this is a Navy Gucci

Originally Posted by GQBaller

I not a fan of the......black suit, but that's your call.

 

[clee1982]

Dark navy usually looks like black on picture (on our usual ****** camera that is...)

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by clee1982

Looks pretty good, except the side, something is off. As for the pants, I would personally take up a bit, I would go for the no break look on this kind of suit, much cleaner, or if you must have break, make it absolutely minimal.

By the way most people here don't think Gucci is a good buy, but I personally think it's decent buy if you can have it at decent discount (same thing with Tom Ford, wouldn't pay retail, but if anyone can find good discount on TF, I would certainly buy it).

I have Gucci/Versace/RLBL/Richard James/RLPL (only jacket for RLPL). RLBL is quite different from this one though, button stance would be much lower than this. You should give it a shot.

Some people will probably suggest Isaia as well, but I can't get that to work right for me, maybe you should give it a shot. Another one I would try is Kilgour, especially their one button suit, or you can go for the 2 button ones, but then it's not quite the Kilgour signature look.

edit: if you want it to be sleek, I would change the shoe to an wholecut or a oxford, somehow derby is just a bit off for my personal taste, but that's my personal taste. As to suit color, I would say, now you have 1 in navy, maybe charocal, grey with some texture, possibly pinestripe to mix up a bit.

Thanks for the suggestions, I have looked on google at RLBL and half of GQ's photo shoots seem to favour them

They do however look very good, and a slimmer fit than this one.

It's funny you mention Kilgour - as I am a big fan of their look from the spring 09 runway, very cool.

I agree the pants should be taken up slightly, I will get that done this friday I think. The shoes are quite slim for a brogue, but a slimmer one would be better definitely. I have quite broad feet however, so once I have found a shoe that fits well, buy several pairs of it. I have 3 pairs of the one in the photo!

Thanks re suit colour, my new buys are 2 plain navy, one navy shadow stripe. I was going to go for a navy pinstripe as I like the colour so much (clearly

)

I find charcoal very hard, as most of the bad suits in England are charcoal, and therefore give me an impression of them being incredibly boring. I am sure great quality with some texture will change my mind, I will give that a try.

Thanks again

TDK

 

[Sander]

Just one quick note: if you want to look professional and serious, I'd advise against "pocketsquare origami" like your tri-fold. Just a plain TV fold would serve your purposes a lot better.

 

[kannoos]

Originally Posted by TheDarkKnight

I find charcoal very hard, as most of the bad suits in England are charcoal, and therefore give me an impression of them being incredibly boring. I am sure great quality with some texture will change my mind, I will give that a try


That is very true. Why not try something like a charcoal flannel suit - I've always been a fan of those? Or if that would not be formal enough for work, you might consider a double breasted and/or 3 piece charcoal worsted suit.

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by Sander

Just one quick note: if you want to look professional and serious, I'd advise against "pocketsquare origami" like your tri-fold. Just a plain TV fold would serve your purposes a lot better.

That is a good point I think I will stick to a flat PS for work, and save the others for elsewhere. Thanks

Kannos I really like the surface interest on grey flannel, that is a good consideration, thanks