yeeth
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2011
- Messages
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Hi guys,
i've finally dipped my toes into the inviting pool of bespoke and scheduled a fitting with Iris Tailors (maker of gshen's awesome suits). As this is my first bespoke (and probably the only one for at least a few years) i've been reading up quite a bit, but i have no experience in this and would really like to get it right.
Here's what i have in mind (i'm about 5'6" and 134lbs if it helps).
jacket:
navy blue SB double-vented
2-button with a lower button stance (first button at, or even 0.25" below, natural waist)
peak lapel, slightly slim but not skinny (around 2.75")
normally structured shoulder (vs the unstructured SF consensus)
high armholes
medium-high gorge
no ticket pocket, functional boutonniere, angled pockets
3 or 4 sleeve buttons?
either a neutral-coloured or a burgundy lining?
pants:
2 flat-front uncuffed pairs; 1 with belt loops and 1 with side adjusters
very little break and hemmed at an angle
right rear pocket only
not sure how wide the leg opening should be
to explain it all...
at my current income this suit is an investment for me so it has to look classic rather than trendy, and i'm hoping it stands out quietly with some of the details.
for the jacket:
i know that slim lapels are probably past their peak for the sartorially inclined, but they help balance out my rather narrow shoulders.
a structured shoulder should help with that as well, and as a bonus it balances out the "trendiness" of the slim lapels and the high armholes should make the structured shoulder look less jock-like.
the slightly high gorge and low buttonhole stance should make me look a little taller =D
i really like the idea of a burgundy lining but combining that with slanted pockets and peak lapels would stretch the definition of "stand out quietly" so maybe not.
as for the pants... i'm kind of lost here. i have rather large thighs, so i'm guessing tapered legs would make me look like a chicken? should i get a moderate leg opening?
any comments, criticisms, opinions or questions on any of the details i've proposed are welcome.
thanks guys!
i've finally dipped my toes into the inviting pool of bespoke and scheduled a fitting with Iris Tailors (maker of gshen's awesome suits). As this is my first bespoke (and probably the only one for at least a few years) i've been reading up quite a bit, but i have no experience in this and would really like to get it right.
Here's what i have in mind (i'm about 5'6" and 134lbs if it helps).
jacket:
navy blue SB double-vented
2-button with a lower button stance (first button at, or even 0.25" below, natural waist)
peak lapel, slightly slim but not skinny (around 2.75")
normally structured shoulder (vs the unstructured SF consensus)
high armholes
medium-high gorge
no ticket pocket, functional boutonniere, angled pockets
3 or 4 sleeve buttons?
either a neutral-coloured or a burgundy lining?
pants:
2 flat-front uncuffed pairs; 1 with belt loops and 1 with side adjusters
very little break and hemmed at an angle
right rear pocket only
not sure how wide the leg opening should be
to explain it all...
at my current income this suit is an investment for me so it has to look classic rather than trendy, and i'm hoping it stands out quietly with some of the details.
for the jacket:
i know that slim lapels are probably past their peak for the sartorially inclined, but they help balance out my rather narrow shoulders.
a structured shoulder should help with that as well, and as a bonus it balances out the "trendiness" of the slim lapels and the high armholes should make the structured shoulder look less jock-like.
the slightly high gorge and low buttonhole stance should make me look a little taller =D
i really like the idea of a burgundy lining but combining that with slanted pockets and peak lapels would stretch the definition of "stand out quietly" so maybe not.
as for the pants... i'm kind of lost here. i have rather large thighs, so i'm guessing tapered legs would make me look like a chicken? should i get a moderate leg opening?
any comments, criticisms, opinions or questions on any of the details i've proposed are welcome.
thanks guys!