my first bespoke suit journey - advice/feedback please

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by yeeth, May 18, 2011.

  1. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    Good lord smaller images please.

    As I understand, Nani at Iris will by default do a slanted chest pocket and straight hip pockets if you don't ask otherwise. It looks fine but I prefer the conservatism of a straight chest pocket.
     


  2. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Just a few thoughts...

    Jeffrey/Nani tend to cut the shoulders of their coats quite close to your natural shoulder; if you have narrow shoulders, I would suggest having the shoulders slightly overextended to accentuate the "V" of your chest. If not, the skirt flair of the coat may emphasise your hips rather than your shoulder/chest and may look a bit unbalanced.

    Also their default sleeves are cut more narrowly. If you want a bit more mobility in your arms, you may want to ask them for a fuller sleeve than normal. Gshen recently asked for this with some success, and I have a current commission with them where I have also asked for fuller sleeves.

    Re: lapels. I tend to find notched lapels a bit more flexible, particularly if this going to be your only suit for a little while.

    Re: hacking pockets and ticket pockets; I disagree with poorsod that these are "trendy". My SR tailor (Mahon) has often suggested both as default on my commissions, and I don't think that either ticket or hacking pockets are seen as particularly trendy by the English tailors I've spoken with...
     


  3. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    academe, i have indeed had the hip flare issue with mtm shirts (which are thankfully tucked in). In that case would u suggest more padding than usual since Nani does softer shoulders?
    As for sleeves - how do tight sleeves hinder mobility? Never had that issue tbh...
     


  4. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    It's just less easy to gesticulate with tighter sleeves. She also does a somewhat tight back -- I'm going to have to get that loosened up a bit. But don't expect perfection with your first commission as always
     


  5. academe

    academe Senior member

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    academe, i have indeed had the hip flare issue with mtm shirts (which are thankfully tucked in). In that case would u suggest more padding than usual since Nani does softer shoulders? As for sleeves - how do tight sleeves hinder mobility? Never had that issue tbh...
    I don't think you need more padding so much as have her slightly extend the shoulder line beyond your natural shoulder (i.e. slight overextension of the shoulder). If you think the skirt flair is too great on the coat, you might suggest that they straighten the skirt slightly...Probably the best thing to do might be to let her know you want slightly overextended shoulders when you place the order, and then go for your first fitting. Take a look for yourself whether you're happy with the proportions, etc. and go from there. No point overthinking this at this point, since she does give you multiple fittings... Re: sleeve width & mobility. Probably best for someone like JefferyD or Despos to comment on this one, as I am not a tailor and can only go based on my experience. My Mahon drape coats are cut with fuller sleeves and I find that I have a wider range of movement than my first few commissions from Nani/Jeffrey that have much narrower sleeves. My experience is that the fuller sleeves allow your arms to move more freely, simply because there's a bit more room in the sleeve...It might also have something to do with how the sleeve is shaped, too, i.e. where the fullness in the sleeve occurs (e.g. upper arm, etc.), but again, I'm no expert, just going experientially...
     


  6. academe

    academe Senior member

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    It's just less easy to gesticulate with tighter sleeves. She also does a somewhat tight back -- I'm going to have to get that loosened up a bit. But don't expect perfection with your first commission as always

    +1

    Even from the best bespoke tailors, there are always minor "imperfections"; but that's part of the beauty of a hand-made garment...
     


  7. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    alright, i'll take note of the sleeve issue... although i did mention that i do intend to wear the suit with French cuffs, so she won't be able to make it too tight.

    I don't think you need more padding so much as have her slightly extend the shoulder line beyond your natural shoulder (i.e. slight overextension of the shoulder).

    i was actually concerned with the suit shoulders sagging if it is overextended, and whether that would require more padding than she usually provides to fix. Also, would a slight overextension cause problems when i lift my hand up? =\\
     


  8. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    You spiteful man, clogging up Iris' resources so I have to wait all the way till Wednesday for my fittings [​IMG]

    I think you should just be careful about getting the fit you want -- the major risk is that it might be too slim in some parts for comfortability. Go slow. There's sure to be some small details you miss, but that's alright -- it's your first commission and take things from there.
     


  9. academe

    academe Senior member

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    i was actually concerned with the suit shoulders sagging if it is overextended, and whether that would require more padding than she usually provides to fix. Also, would a slight overextension cause problems when i lift my hand up? =\\
    Check with Despos or JefferyD but I don't think this should be problem. Again, for point of comparison, my Mahon coats have very little padding, overextended shoulders and an even cleaner shoulder line than my Iris garments....I don't think if they're cut/constructed properly that they should droop. I know this is a slight tangent, but take a look at some of Vox's garments from Steed (or check the Steed blog for images of their work; http://steeds-view.blogspot.com/). If I remember correctly (and this includes my own experience with A&S expats), one of the hallmarks of A&S and A&S-expat garments is a soft, slightly overextended shoulder, and if you take a look at any of these garments there's no problem with shoulder "droop" or cleanness of the shoulder line. My main point is that there shouldn't be a problem here if cut/constructed properly! I think you're overthinking this and getting anxious... Just ask for what you'd like and go for the fittings. You can tweak the garment throughout the fitting process to your heart's desire!
     


  10. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Re: lapels. I tend to find notched lapels a bit more flexible, particularly if this going to be your only suit for a little while.

    Re: hacking pockets and ticket pockets; I disagree with poorsod that these are "trendy". My SR tailor (Mahon) has often suggested both as default on my commissions, and I don't think that either ticket or hacking pockets are seen as particularly trendy by the English tailors I've spoken with...


    If you were to insist on hacking pockets on a suit (rather than just an odd jacket) then I think it would be best to go the route of Huntsman/Richard Anderson. I don't like them on drape suits. To me hacking pockets seem more suited to its structured equestrian origin.

    [​IMG]

    Even this good looking RA suit seems a little trendy to my eye.

    I'm just not sure just any tailor would do it justice. I suspect in the hands of many tailors, it could turn out trendy or simply not good looking, rather than classic.
     


  11. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    alright... just checking academe, how much do you mean by overextension? 0.25" per side?

    yeah well like i mentioned it's my first bespoke, and probably my only one for at least a year so i'd like to make as few mistakes as possible. but you're right i'm probably overthinking it, will post pics once i have a fitting and we'll see how it goes!
     


  12. koolhistorian

    koolhistorian Senior member

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    First rule of bespoke - do not micro manage your tailor (he/she knows better than you what can be done)!
    Second rule of bespoke - for the first commission KISS (keep it simple)! Do not venture in styles that you had not worn yet. 2 or 3 B SB, simple pants, etc. (keep it classic) if you need a good suit.
    For the shoulder construction you can go either unstructured (more or less neapolitan) or get them with a rollino, if you feel that your body structure needs it. Normally, a good tailor will suggest it, just to keep things in balance. He/she will know how to compensate a sloping shoulder, or things like that. When the jacket will flow correctly (back and front) it is on the spot. Then you can add things!
     


  13. academe

    academe Senior member

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    If you were to insist on hacking pockets on a suit (rather than just an odd jacket) then I think it would be best to go the route of Huntsman/Richard Anderson. I don't like them on drape suits. To me hacking pockets seem more suited to its structured equestrian origin. [​IMG] Even this good looking RA suit seems a little trendy to my eye. I'm just not sure just any tailor would do it justice. I suspect in the hands of many tailors, it could turn out trendy or simply not good looking, rather than classic.
    We will have to agree to disagree... All my Mahon commissions with flap pockets have hacking pockets and ticket pockets, as I believe are many of A Y's (if I remember correctly), and most of them fairly "conservatively" styled. To my subjective eye they look just as "classic" as a coat with straight pockets... Again, the RA coat doesn't look particularly "trendy" to me, hacking pockets or not. This is a subjective point... Really no point arguing it as neither of us are going to agree. [​IMG]
     


  14. academe

    academe Senior member

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    alright... just checking academe, how much do you mean by overextension? 0.25" per side?

    yeah well like i mentioned it's my first bespoke, and probably my only one for at least a year so i'd like to make as few mistakes as possible. but you're right i'm probably overthinking it, will post pics once i have a fitting and we'll see how it goes!


    I have no idea having never met you or seen what you look like. The degree of overextension will depend on so many different things, e.g. how wide your hips are in relation to your shoulders, how close they cut the coat to your body, etc. Figure this out at the fitting!!! [​IMG]
     


  15. facet

    facet Senior member

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    hmm how about a slanted chest pocket but straight lower pockets? something like SB here:

    [​IMG]

    Wow, that's a pretty girl.
     


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