my first bespoke suit journey - advice/feedback please

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by yeeth, May 18, 2011.

  1. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys,
    i've finally dipped my toes into the inviting pool of bespoke and scheduled a fitting with Iris Tailors (maker of gshen's awesome suits). As this is my first bespoke (and probably the only one for at least a few years) i've been reading up quite a bit, but i have no experience in this and would really like to get it right.
    Here's what i have in mind (i'm about 5'6" and 134lbs if it helps).

    jacket:
    navy blue SB double-vented
    2-button with a lower button stance (first button at, or even 0.25" below, natural waist)
    peak lapel, slightly slim but not skinny (around 2.75")
    normally structured shoulder (vs the unstructured SF consensus)
    high armholes
    medium-high gorge
    no ticket pocket, functional boutonniere, angled pockets
    3 or 4 sleeve buttons?
    either a neutral-coloured or a burgundy lining?

    pants:
    2 flat-front uncuffed pairs; 1 with belt loops and 1 with side adjusters
    very little break and hemmed at an angle
    right rear pocket only
    not sure how wide the leg opening should be

    to explain it all...
    at my current income this suit is an investment for me so it has to look classic rather than trendy, and i'm hoping it stands out quietly with some of the details.

    for the jacket:
    i know that slim lapels are probably past their peak for the sartorially inclined, but they help balance out my rather narrow shoulders.
    a structured shoulder should help with that as well, and as a bonus it balances out the "trendiness" of the slim lapels and the high armholes should make the structured shoulder look less jock-like.
    the slightly high gorge and low buttonhole stance should make me look a little taller =D
    i really like the idea of a burgundy lining but combining that with slanted pockets and peak lapels would stretch the definition of "stand out quietly" so maybe not.

    as for the pants... i'm kind of lost here. i have rather large thighs, so i'm guessing tapered legs would make me look like a chicken? should i get a moderate leg opening?

    any comments, criticisms, opinions or questions on any of the details i've proposed are welcome.

    thanks guys!
     
  2. Lightbringer

    Lightbringer Senior member

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    Don't fret the details too much, Nani will know most of what you want almost immediately. She does do quite a bit of waist suppression though - depending on tour build and preferences you might want to tone it down. She also does a very very clean fit and back which can be slightly constricting.
     
  3. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    yup well it's my first bespoke and i don't have that many RTW/MTM in the first place, so i'd like to have some opinions before my fitting so as not to look like a clueless monkey =D

    i'll watch out for those characteristics, thanks! clean fit sounds good though, i don't envision myself wrestling a bear or doing the steeplechase in that suit.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi guys,
    i've finally dipped my toes into the inviting pool of bespoke and scheduled a fitting with Iris Tailors (maker of gshen's awesome suits). As this is my first bespoke (and probably the only one for at least a few years) i've been reading up quite a bit, but i have no experience in this and would really like to get it right.
    Here's what i have in mind (i'm about 5'6" and 134lbs if it helps).

    jacket:
    navy blue SB double-vented
    2-button with a lower button stance (first button at, or even 0.25" below, natural waist)
    peak lapel, slightly slim but not skinny (around 2.75")
    normally structured shoulder (vs the unstructured SF consensus)
    high armholes
    medium-high gorge
    no ticket pocket, functional boutonniere, angled pockets
    3 or 4 sleeve buttons?
    either a neutral-coloured or a burgundy lining?

    pants:
    2 flat-front uncuffed pairs; 1 with belt loops and 1 with side adjusters
    very little break and hemmed at an angle
    right rear pocket only
    not sure how wide the leg opening should be

    to explain it all...
    at my current income this suit is an investment for me so it has to look classic rather than trendy, and i'm hoping it stands out quietly with some of the details.

    for the jacket:
    i know that slim lapels are probably past their peak for the sartorially inclined, but they help balance out my rather narrow shoulders.
    a structured shoulder should help with that as well, and as a bonus it balances out the "trendiness" of the slim lapels and the high armholes should make the structured shoulder look less jock-like.
    the slightly high gorge and low buttonhole stance should make me look a little taller =D
    i really like the idea of a burgundy lining but combining that with slanted pockets and peak lapels would stretch the definition of "stand out quietly" so maybe not.

    as for the pants... i'm kind of lost here. i have rather large thighs, so i'm guessing tapered legs would make me look like a chicken? should i get a moderate leg opening?

    any comments, criticisms, opinions or questions on any of the details i've proposed are welcome.

    thanks guys!


    Really? You find it inviting?
     
  5. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    yup... why not?
     
  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  7. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

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    Thanks for posting that advice (I'm in a similar positin to the OP), but what makes you say

    Is that because it's his first attempt? Or you don't know the tailor, or...?
     
  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I agree that a notch lapel is better than a peak lapel. It will soon be dated.

    Hacking pockets are already dated.
     
  9. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    Thanks for posting that advice (I'm in a similar positin to the OP), but what makes you say Is that because it's his first attempt? Or you don't know the tailor, or...?
    Member voxsartoria has 500 bespoke garments, and only recently has he had moderate success with their outcome. He is speaking from experience.
     
  10. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

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    I mean if that's all then I see the humor in the statement! The joke cuts a little bit close if a small-timer like me takes it too seriously...! [​IMG] But of course Vox is operating on a different scale of success/failure.

    Good advice anyway so thanks.
     
  11. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    I agree that a notch lapel is better than a peak lapel. It will soon be dated.

    Hacking pockets are already dated.


    hmm... dated as in no longer "trendy", or dated as in it looks like i bought it 5 years ago?
     
  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I have hacking pockets on one of my jackets and it feels aged. I think the hacking pocket trend is 4-5 years old. Peaked lapels might return as a trend but is not classic ageless, unless on a tux.
     
  13. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    hmm how about a slanted chest pocket but straight lower pockets? something like SB here:
    [​IMG]
     
  14. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    oh and since i was on SB... here's something like what i originally had in mind. although i don't like that style of peak lapels...
    [​IMG]
     
  15. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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