Loro Piana 9oz Super 160 Flannel...

[woolymammoth]

Loro Piana 9oz Super 160 15.5 microns, not sure what that means : this is a light-weight flannel - I would like to get a Fall/Winter suit made of this material as I love the fabric but am a little concerned that 160s may be too delicate - it was suggested to me that due to the material being flannel and being 15.5 microns?? that the suit should hold up to a once a week wearing - comments very much appreciated - thank you.

 

[taxgenius]

I can't answer your question, but it does sound very interesting.

 

[pabloj]

Light-weight flannel and fall-winter suit don't go together well ....

 

[TheFoo]

'Lightweight flannel' seems like a self-defeating proposition to me. If it's for fall and winter wear, why not get something in a more traditional weight?

Incidentally, the one suit I have made of Loro Piana wool wears awfully. It's also very, very fragile.

 

[woolymammoth]

Thank you for the comments - I have pause to reconsider.

 

[Roger]

The Super 160s and 15.5 micron designations are simply two different metrics for indexing the fineness of the wool yarn. The English seem to have started the "Super" system, whereas the top Italian makers (like Kiton, for example) like to use the micron system. However, there are points of equivalence between the two systems. For example, Kiton's 14 micron wool is sometimes roughly equated to Super 180s (although, in fact, it's really closer to what we might call Super 172.5s!). It has been my impression that the 15 micron wool that Zegna makes and calls 15 mil mil 15 is roughly equivalent to what others would call Super 150s--although, in fact, I think it's a little finer than that (maybe closer to 155s). If my impression is correct, it would make 15.5 microns equivalent to a yarn number lower than Super 160s--probably just about exactly Super 150s.

I believe that, for the most part, the yarn number and weight (in ounces or grams) are separate and distinct entities (although somewhat correlated, I would guess). The weight--9 ounces in this case--refers to the sheer amount of wool actually present, whereas the yarn number refers to the fineness of the fibers. Thus, one could have a 12-oz. Super 180s wool, a 9-oz. Super 100s wool, etc.

For warmth, we should consider the weight. A 9-oz wool could hardly be considered of a fall/winter weight, quite independently of its yarn number--unless perhaps you live in Abu Dhabi, or maybe San Diego. Here in Vancouver, we consider 11-oz. wool as suitable for fall/winter, but really nothing much lighter. My guess is that in the Midwest and East, fall/winter weights might begin at something like 13 oz.

Yarn number signifies the softness of the wool--some would say sumptuousness. A good 150s or 160s is certainly sumptuous, but not as well-wearing as a 100s or 120s. For me, it would come down to how often I planned or needed to wear the garment. If your plans call for once per week, then I believe that it would probably be OK, although I'd recommend that you get two pairs of trousers made. My experience with Loro Piana wool has been good; what I've seen has been of very high quality.

A 9-oz. suit of good-quality Super 150s or 160s will be a lovely soft garment that will probably be fine in temperatures in the 50s F and up. If not worn all the time, it will probably hold up for a reasonable time. I'm sure that this would be a worsted flannel, which is far and away my favorite kind of flannel. The nappy finish will at least look fall/wintery, even if it doesn't keep you warm below 40-50 F.

So at the end of the day, you're considering two different characteristics--warmth and softness. I'd choose the weight first, I think, which is dependent on the kind of climate you live in. Once I had that right, I'd consider my wearing pattern in arriving at the answer to the softness question and the yarn number to choose.

A rambling post, but I hope it helps!

 

[woolymammoth]

A rambling post, but I hope it helps!...thank you Roger, your thoughful comments do indeed help.

 

[gherrmann]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Incidentally, the one suit I have made of Loro Piana wool wears awfully. It's also very, very fragile.


+1.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by woolymammoth

Loro Piana 9oz Super 160 15.5 microns, not sure what that means : this is a light-weight flannel - I would like to get a Fall/Winter suit made of this material as I love the fabric but am a little concerned that 160s may be too delicate - it was suggested to me that due to the material being flannel and being 15.5 microns?? that the suit should hold up to a once a week wearing - comments very much appreciated - thank you.

How much is that stuff? You might consider Harrisons Cashmere instead.

 

[woolymammoth]

How much is that stuff? You might consider Harrisons Cashmere instead....I am afraid to ask, just browsing through the book.

 

[yachtie]

I wouldn't get LP for suitings. Jackets maybe, but not suits. If you want a good light weight flannel try H&S or Fox.

 

[Vintage Gent]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Incidentally, the one suit I have made of Loro Piana wool wears awfully. It's also very, very fragile.

Ditto

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Vintage Gent

Ditto

+2. Nice design, but I really learned my lesson.

 

[Will]

+3 Never again.

 

[Roger]

Not much love for LP above! My experiences have been different, although I've never had a suit or jacket made up from virgin LP wool. I do, however, have a 100% cashmere sports jacket (by Canali) made of LP cashmere, and it feels the equal of the 100% cashmere in a Kiton jacket I have. It has worn well too, although it's true that I don't wear it all that frequently. I have a coat and a couple of bomber jackets made from the Loro Piana Storm System wool and am happy to report that it appears to function as advertised.

One thing I like about the company is that they are innovative. Right now, their innovation appears to be the baby cashmere that they're weaving, and which they claim is 13 micron. I think that LP is best known--vis-a-vis wool at least--for their Super 120s, and I've heard good things about it.