Linen dress shirt - Darts or pleats?

[smoothmoose]

Hi all,

I was going to order linen dress shirts from either Jantzen or Lee Baron (have bought from both of them before) and was wondering if darts in the back are appropriate look for linen.

All my normal shirts from both tailors I get them with darts in the back to show a more fitted silhouette. However, I know linen in general is supposed to show a more relaxed silhouette. That and the fact that the translucent nature of linen makes me believe dart lines will be very noticeable on the material.

I'm getting the shirts done for beach destination wedding if that helps. And we will not be wearing any jackets.

SM

 

[smoothmoose]

Bump...no comments and only one vote? You guys have more opinions than this?

 

[clapeyron]

I go with all my linen and linen cotton blend shirts with side pleats.

 

[Stylishmartita]

Hi Smoothmoose, you're right: darts don't look "great" on a linen shirt, especially if you're going to wear it at a wedding on the beach.
How are you planning to wear your shirt? Tucked or untucked? If you're wearing it tucked I can suggest not to sew darts: just choose a tight or slim fitting.

 

[Shirtmaven]

just make sure they use softer fusings in the collar and cuff.
go unfused and soft if possible.
and a linen shirt should be cut a little fuller.
add 1/2-1" in the yoke
chest + 2
it also should be cut straighter at the sides with out serious shaping at the waist.

 

[smoothmoose]

Thanks guys for the suggestions so far.

The plan is to wear the shirt tucked. I'm one of the groomsman, and the bride is "directing" the production. So she might have a different opinion once she see's the groomsmen in our attire.

 

[Stylishmartita]

Ok, and what about the pants? Are you wearing also linen pants?

 

[smoothmoose]



Ok, and what about the pants? Are you wearing also linen pants?

Yes, I have pair of linen/cotten blend khaki pants already. That was what the bride requested, white shirt over khaki pants.

 

[Stylishmartita]

Ok, I'd suggest not to sew darts or the back of the shirt would be too tight. If you wish to have a tighter waist just reduce its measure a bit.
I'd recommend a soft collar with removable stays.
And finally...-I don't know which is the request of the bride so maybe I'm daring too much-, but if you want to add a touch of elegance:
-a korean collar
-a covered placket

 

[smoothmoose]

What is Korean collar and how does it look like? I did some quick googling and didn't find much. Just saw some pictures of popped up collars or ones that look like a collar on Chairman Mao style suit.

 

[Needsmoreshoes]

I think what you're looking for is also known as a Band Collar or Mandarin Collar - do a search for that and you should get some results

 

[Stylishmartita]

It should be known also as Mao or Guru collar but if you want you can have a look at this:

http://www.neronote.com/nn/en/p/white-korean-shirt.3sp

 

[Merlino]



[...]
and a linen shirt should be cut a little fuller.
add 1/2-1" in the yoke
chest + 2
it also should be cut straighter at the sides with out serious shaping at the waist.

Could you explain a bit? I would think that with linen's propensity to stretch more than cotton during ear, you would either stick to the same measurements or opt for a more fitted shirt? Or is this because linen will shrink more in the washer?

Thanks.

 

[Cambric]

One need not look at pleats and darts as opposite to each other. I recently got a Tommy Hilfiger shirt which has both pleats at the shoulder and
darts below, with the over all design of a slim fit. No matter what the fabric is, it is the fitting that matters.
Cambric

 

[Shirtmaven]

no to the korean/band collar very late 1980/1990s

if your regualr shirts are cut slim.
ease up on measurements as tight fitting linen shirts just look wrong.
a tight fitting line shirt will wrinkle even more then usual