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Linen dress shirt - Darts or pleats?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smoothmoose, Oct 2, 2012.

Darts or Pleats in linen dress shirt

  1. Darts - slim silhouette all the way

    4 vote(s)
    33.3%
  2. Pleats - relaxed silhouette looks better with linen

    2 vote(s)
    16.7%
  3. Neither - just go with a straight back

    6 vote(s)
    50.0%
  1. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Hi all,

    I was going to order linen dress shirts from either Jantzen or Lee Baron (have bought from both of them before) and was wondering if darts in the back are appropriate look for linen.

    All my normal shirts from both tailors I get them with darts in the back to show a more fitted silhouette. However, I know linen in general is supposed to show a more relaxed silhouette. That and the fact that the translucent nature of linen makes me believe dart lines will be very noticeable on the material.

    I'm getting the shirts done for beach destination wedding if that helps. And we will not be wearing any jackets.

    SM
     
  2. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Bump...no comments and only one vote? You guys have more opinions than this?
     
  3. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    I go with all my linen and linen cotton blend shirts with side pleats.
     
  4. Stylishmartita

    Stylishmartita Well-Known Member

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    Hi Smoothmoose, you're right: darts don't look "great" on a linen shirt, especially if you're going to wear it at a wedding on the beach.
    How are you planning to wear your shirt? Tucked or untucked? If you're wearing it tucked I can suggest not to sew darts: just choose a tight or slim fitting.
     
  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    just make sure they use softer fusings in the collar and cuff.
    go unfused and soft if possible.
    and a linen shirt should be cut a little fuller.
    add 1/2-1" in the yoke
    chest + 2
    it also should be cut straighter at the sides with out serious shaping at the waist.
     
  6. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Thanks guys for the suggestions so far.

    The plan is to wear the shirt tucked. I'm one of the groomsman, and the bride is "directing" the production. So she might have a different opinion once she see's the groomsmen in our attire.
     
  7. Stylishmartita

    Stylishmartita Well-Known Member

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    Ok, and what about the pants? Are you wearing also linen pants?
     
  8. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Yes, I have pair of linen/cotten blend khaki pants already. That was what the bride requested, white shirt over khaki pants.
     
  9. Stylishmartita

    Stylishmartita Well-Known Member

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    Ok, I'd suggest not to sew darts or the back of the shirt would be too tight. If you wish to have a tighter waist just reduce its measure a bit.
    I'd recommend a soft collar with removable stays.
    And finally...-I don't know which is the request of the bride so maybe I'm daring too much-, but if you want to add a touch of elegance:
    -a korean collar
    -a covered placket
     
  10. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    What is Korean collar and how does it look like? I did some quick googling and didn't find much. Just saw some pictures of popped up collars or ones that look like a collar on Chairman Mao style suit.
     
  11. Needsmoreshoes

    Needsmoreshoes Senior member

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    I think what you're looking for is also known as a Band Collar or Mandarin Collar - do a search for that and you should get some results
     
  12. Stylishmartita

    Stylishmartita Well-Known Member

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  13. Merlino

    Merlino Senior member

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    Could you explain a bit? I would think that with linen's propensity to stretch more than cotton during ear, you would either stick to the same measurements or opt for a more fitted shirt? Or is this because linen will shrink more in the washer?

    Thanks.
     
  14. Cambric

    Cambric Member

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    One need not look at pleats and darts as opposite to each other. I recently got a Tommy Hilfiger shirt which has both pleats at the shoulder and
    darts below, with the over all design of a slim fit. No matter what the fabric is, it is the fitting that matters.
    Cambric
     
  15. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    no to the korean/band collar very late 1980/1990s

    if your regualr shirts are cut slim.
    ease up on measurements as tight fitting linen shirts just look wrong.
    a tight fitting line shirt will wrinkle even more then usual
     
  16. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    My shirts are typical cut slim, but not tight. I think, but I have to double check as I'm wearing a T-shirt today, that my shirts have around +2-3" on both chest and waist body measurements.

    Should I be adding much more?
     
  17. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Linen shirt is in. Went with Lee Baron as they were able to turn it around quickly.

    100% Linen
    Double pocket
    Double button barrel cuffs
    Covered Placket
    Soft normal point collar
    Flat bottom with side vents

    Banana Republic Tailored Fit Cotton/Linen Chinos pants.

    Flipflops optional! Will be wearing shoes at the wedding (Bride's orders).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  18. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  19. smoothmoose

    smoothmoose Senior member

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    Double pockets provide full coverage of my manly nipples as I don't wear an undershirt and linen is quite transparent.

    Flat bottom, I personally like more untucked, but others may disagree.
     

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