Lightweight summer trousers

[SirThopas]

I’m looking for some advice. I would like to buy some lightweight summer trousers and have two questions.

1. What’s the best material? I would guess linen, but appreciate I might be wrong, and wonder about an alternative such as a wool/silk blend. To be blunt, I get very hot when the temperature rises above 25C, but am often in situations where I’m expected to wear trousers rather than shorts. I’m looking for something that’s smart enough to wear in a professional situation, but relaxed enough that it doesn’t look weird with a polo when I’m at an evening social event with my family. Ideally, I’d like something that’s washable, though this isn’t a dealbreaker.

2. Where’s a good place for me to look? I’m in the UK, and am willing to spend up to around £250 or $300, though I’d happily spend less. I’m stocky with short legs - 36W, 29L or thereabouts. To give you an idea of my taste / where I’m at stylistically: the last three pairs of trousers I’ve bought, none of them summer weight, have been from Margaret Howell, Spoke and Cavour.

 

[Axxl]

Hi,

I’m looking for some advice. I would like to buy some lightweight summer trousers and have two questions.

1. What’s the best material? I would guess linen, but appreciate I might be wrong, and wonder about an alternative such as a wool/silk blend. To be blunt, I get very hot when the temperature rises above 25C, but am often in situations where I’m expected to wear trousers rather than shorts. I’m looking for something that’s smart enough to wear in a professional situation, but relaxed enough that it doesn’t look weird with a polo when I’m at an evening social event with my family. Ideally, I’d like something that’s washable, though this isn’t a dealbreaker.

2. Where’s a good place for me to look? I’m in the UK, and am willing to spend up to around £250 or $300, though I’d happily spend less. I’m stocky with short legs - 36W, 29L or thereabouts. To give you an idea of my taste / where I’m at stylistically: the last three pairs of trousers I’ve bought, none of them summer weight, have been from Margaret Howell, Spoke and Cavour.

Hi, I think linen, hopsak and cotton or cotton/silk blends are good choices. But what I personally experienced is that cut is even more relevant than cloth. A wide, relaxed, maybe pleated fit allows air to circulate and makes for a much cooler feel than those narrow/tight fits we often see in summer styles. This is especially true for the leg openings and below-the-knee area. Hope that helps.

 

[Quesjac]

Tropical wools (Fresco, Fox Air, and similar) are generally coolest in my experience. Linen is nice but less formal, so may be the better choice if you want something that can cross over from office to casual.

You can get good RTW trousers in the UK from places like Drake's (more English style) or Richard Gelding has a good selection of Canali and similar brands (Mr Porter too if you don't mind online shopping). In terms of newer brands consider Kit Blake or Natalino, both good.

 

[SirThopas]

Hi,

Hi, I think linen, hopsak and cotton or cotton/silk blends are good choices. But what I personally experienced is that cut is even more relevant than cloth. A wide, relaxed, maybe pleated fit allows air to circulate and makes for a much cooler feel than those narrow/tight fits we often see in summer styles. This is especially true for the leg openings and below-the-knee area. Hope that helps.

Thank you, that’s really helpful. I tend to avoid pleated trousers, but maybe that’s a position I need to reconsider!

 

[SirThopas]

Tropical wools (Fresco, Fox Air, and similar) are generally coolest in my experience. Linen is nice but less formal, so may be the better choice if you want something that can cross over from office to casual.

You can get good RTW trousers in the UK from places like Drake's (more English style) or Richard Gelding has a good selection of Canali and similar brands (Mr Porter too if you don't mind online shopping). In terms of newer brands consider Kit Blake or Natalino, both good.

Thanks. I was particularly interested to learn about brands I might not know. Mr Porter has everything under the sun, but it can be hard to know where to begin. I’d been meaning to check out Kit Blake, and had never even heard of Natalino, so I appreciate being nudged in their direction.

 

[Andy57]

I can add my recommendation for Kit Blake. I just obtained a pair of linen trousers from them in their "Grant" (I think) style. They're very nice and fit within your budget.

 

[Leiito]

I think it also depends on your climate and what you're used to. I recently had experience with VBC 4-ply and like it a lot better than Mock Leno or Tropicalair, both of which drape well but are quite heavy and sturdy for someone used to lighter, Italian cloths and almost certainly too hot to wear in summer. But for summer I'm starting to lean towards unconstructed, unlined jackets anyway, what with cupro and canvas it's not so easy to not be hot no matter how light or airy the cloth.

 

[smittycl]

I’ve been wearing Rota linen pants from NMWA all day at the Eastern Shore. Breathable and comfy. Summer for me is linen for casual wear and dress wear as much as possible.

High twist wool tailoring for work and linen can be a bit too casual in some environments.

Out for dinner tonight in RLPL Navy linen pants and light blue Canali linen shirt.

 

[justkwan]

I’m looking for some advice. I would like to buy some lightweight summer trousers and have two questions.

1. What’s the best material? I would guess linen, but appreciate I might be wrong, and wonder about an alternative such as a wool/silk blend. To be blunt, I get very hot when the temperature rises above 25C, but am often in situations where I’m expected to wear trousers rather than shorts. I’m looking for something that’s smart enough to wear in a professional situation, but relaxed enough that it doesn’t look weird with a polo when I’m at an evening social event with my family. Ideally, I’d like something that’s washable, though this isn’t a dealbreaker.

2. Where’s a good place for me to look? I’m in the UK, and am willing to spend up to around £250 or $300, though I’d happily spend less. I’m stocky with short legs - 36W, 29L or thereabouts. To give you an idea of my taste / where I’m at stylistically: the last three pairs of trousers I’ve bought, none of them summer weight, have been from Margaret Howell, Spoke and Cavour.

Hello,

I'll take on this question but 'best material' really depends on TPO (time, place and occasion) and some personal preferences.

Before I jump in, I've been in retail since the mid-2000's as a sales associate at Macy's and have run my own brand (full disclaimer) over the past 10 years specializing in MTM and bespoke while also offering an array of classical inspired ready to wear. In my experience, there is a reason almost all of our bespoke and MTM clients add a cotton chino to their order and I think it would suit you perfectly.

Please allow me to share why:

I love linen but in order to get a linen trouser that has a clean drape and doesn't wrinkle like a light pair of linen beach pants, you will need a sturdy 350g/12oz Irish linen. The issue with this is it might be a bit heavy and not as breathable as you'd like due to the density and sturdiness needed to avoid too many wrinkles. If you go any lighter, they will wrinkle a bit more than desired and thus wont be suitable for a smart or professional setting (solely based on my own definition of professional which could vary depending on you). The other potential downside is they need to be dry cleaned, so they aren't as easy to care for as you may want, especially in summer if you sweat and feel hot when the thermostat goes above 25c.

Wool/linen blends would be a very nice option. If the wool composition is around 50%, it will add a nice spring to the fabric and should naturally ease out a lot of the wrinkles. Wool is also a very strong fiber so you can find a lot of options in a light weight of 250g that are durable and will last. They will be smart for professional situations yet casual to wear with a polo. I like them because they are very breathable as well. However, you will still need to dry clean these but if you can find one in 50% wool, they will air out nicely much like a pure wool trouser and wont need to be laundered as often as a pure linen. The down side of this is that it is hard to find them on the market ready to wear and they may be a bit higher in price compared to a cotton chino, especially if you go MTM or bespoke.

A cotton chino with a classic cut with a mid-rise and pleat will be a great option and well within your budget. Cotton at around 280g/9oz is a great weight, any lighter and you risk losing the weight and density needed to keep a clean drape for cotton but they will still be breathable and comfortable for summer. The pleat will add to a level of sharpness making them feel neat for a professional environment. You mentioned you are stocky with short legs, so that is another reason to go with a mid-to-high rise, which elongates your lower proportions and classic cuts usually are not skinny. I love my classic cut chinos so much. Two final reasons to go with cotton: first, they are machine washable and second they will have a price point that should be well within your budget.

I hope you and others find this helpful.

Cheers,
Justin

 

[SirThopas]

Hello,

I'll take on this question but 'best material' really depends on TPO (time, place and occasion) and some personal preferences.

Before I jump in, I've been in retail since the mid-2000's as a sales associate at Macy's and have run my own brand (full disclaimer) over the past 10 years specializing in MTM and bespoke while also offering an array of classical inspired ready to wear. In my experience, there is a reason almost all of our bespoke and MTM clients add a cotton chino to their order and I think it would suit you perfectly.

Please allow me to share why:

I love linen but in order to get a linen trouser that has a clean drape and doesn't wrinkle like a light pair of linen beach pants, you will need a sturdy 350g/12oz Irish linen. The issue with this is it might be a bit heavy and not as breathable as you'd like due to the density and sturdiness needed to avoid too many wrinkles. If you go any lighter, they will wrinkle a bit more than desired and thus wont be suitable for a smart or professional setting (solely based on my own definition of professional which could vary depending on you). The other potential downside is they need to be dry cleaned, so they aren't as easy to care for as you may want, especially in summer if you sweat and feel hot when the thermostat goes above 25c.

Wool/linen blends would be a very nice option. If the wool composition is around 50%, it will add a nice spring to the fabric and should naturally ease out a lot of the wrinkles. Wool is also a very strong fiber so you can find a lot of options in a light weight of 250g that are durable and will last. They will be smart for professional situations yet casual to wear with a polo. I like them because they are very breathable as well. However, you will still need to dry clean these but if you can find one in 50% wool, they will air out nicely much like a pure wool trouser and wont need to be laundered as often as a pure linen. The down side of this is that it is hard to find them on the market ready to wear and they may be a bit higher in price compared to a cotton chino, especially if you go MTM or bespoke.

A cotton chino with a classic cut with a mid-rise and pleat will be a great option and well within your budget. Cotton at around 280g/9oz is a great weight, any lighter and you risk losing the weight and density needed to keep a clean drape for cotton but they will still be breathable and comfortable for summer. The pleat will add to a level of sharpness making them feel neat for a professional environment. You mentioned you are stocky with short legs, so that is another reason to go with a mid-to-high rise, which elongates your lower proportions and classic cuts usually are not skinny. I love my classic cut chinos so much I even made a YouTube video about skinny fit vs. classical fit. Two final reasons to go with cotton: first, they are machine washable and second they will have a price point that should be well within your budget.

I hope you and others find this helpful.

Cheers,
Justin

Thank you, Justin. I appreciate your detailed, thoughtful response.

 

[whorishconsumer]

You mentioned Cavour already. You might try these 240g high-twist trousers, if in your size. Don't be put off by the side-tabs – if you can get a good fit, the pants will stay up on their own. Admittedly this is hard to do (I know from personal experience). They also have linen, although this has been discussed above for its drawbacks.

A caution to avoid the flat front Mod 2 version. They are absurdly skinny and undersized compared to the one-pleat.

Natalino just restocked their tropical wool trousers, which are also equipped with side tabs. These are ~300g weight, however. On paper the Natalinos are a better value than Cavour. Shipping is prohibitive to the US, but might be better for the UK.

Berg & Berg has several high-twist options in different fits, all of which are high-rise. As has been recently discussed elsewhere, high rise doesn't work for everyone, given the tendency for hip placement and size and belly size to present complications. It should also be noted that these are 300g weight.

If you can accommodate the much-skinnier and medium-rise fit of Rota trousers, they offer a single-pleat ("comfort fit") hopsack in 240g wool that is very nice. They are also stocked here, at Frans Boone and at No Man Walks Alone, although the latter is largely sold out from what I can see. These are on the higher end and outside your stated price range. Personally, I only prefer Rota if I can find them pretty sized up (which for me is a 58), as in my size they remain pretty low-rise and snug.

A final thing on Rota: there are a lot of pairs that have gone up on Yoox, at least the US site, where they are frequently on deeper discount and within your price range. It's hard to tell, but some of them appear to be a fresco twill. I have ordered a pair to see for myself and can report back, if interested.

Casatlantic is all about loose fits, but is only available in cotton at this time. Personally I find cotton to collect sweat, no diffuse it.

Fursac also has some fresco options, but I'm afraid I cannot discuss that at this time.

 

[Bhav]

I typically wear single-pleat high-rise trousers to work and, during the hot months, it's linen-cotton blends or high-twist wools for me. They transition fairly seamlessly from the office to social engagements. Spier & MacKay has various options that fit the bill.

 

[Miles R.]

Linen, if there is no need for the formality of wool.

Fresco wool, if formality is needed.

Cotton twill only if atmospheric conditions are not very warm or muggy. The fact that cotton is poor at keeping you warm in winter does not mean that it is good at keeping you cool in summer. It depends on the weave. Twill is a dense weave that allows very little circulation of air. I find fresco wool vastly more comfortable in muggy conditions.

 

[justkwan]

Thank you, Justin. I appreciate your detailed, thoughtful response.

Happy to share, cheers!

 

[Oliverk19]

In terms of trouser manufacturers Spencer’s and northern men’s and boys wear run a mtm service in the uk. They make great trousers and if you have a pair that fit they can copy them. Spencer’s charge £150! Vanity and comfort don’t go together. So many men buy trousers and clothes based on style and end up wearing either horrible scratchy wool or overly hot cotton. In the uk we have muggy humid summers and linen is the best bet, both in shirts and trousers. Simple way to test this wear linen on a breezy day and you will feel the breeze blows right through it. Do the same with a cotton twill and you get my point. As for cotton twill it’s terrible stuff, unless you go for a medium weight drill, or the best cotton fabric I’ve come across Brisbane moss cavalry twill. It wears well and doesn’t look like a pair of pyjamas after a few washes which lightweight cotton has a tendency to do. But again it’s far from cool wearing. In terms of creasing cotton chinos crease terribly so I never understood the problem with linen. When it creases it looks presentable and you avoid the try hard look which is common in menswear these days. Also worth buying the Irish linen, it’s tougher and can most certainly be machine washed as it tends to be pre shrunk. Just buy trousers a little longer in the leg just in case they shrink a touch. They used to make military clothes out of linen and work trousers so it’s robust stuff if it’s good quality. Oh and another cotton worth looking into is good old fashioned canvas. If you must insist on wearing the dreadful stuff in summer at least canvas has a tendency not to cling to your body when you sweat. It hangs looser away from the body which makes it surprisingly effective in the heat. As for breathability again it’s cotton so it’s not going to be great but if you get your trousers cut in a proper lose style with wider leg openings you will be fine. I second the point made about cut being more important than cloth. Wide lose leg trousers are ideal. Again forget vanity and go for comfort.