I guess theres an exception if it is oiled calf, leather is just too nice. Probably would look better with the collar down. I guess 3/4ths isn't so bad either. i've got a oiled calf in s/s weight that although is nice, it just doesn't feel substantial. in fact i'm the "wrinkling effect" near/below the chest area which I'm taking a bit of time to get used to - as in the above picture also. it feels snug as the arm pit is made high. I'd imagine it will stretch with wear.