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Large Men In Suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pitboss12, May 9, 2008.

  1. pitboss12

    pitboss12 Senior member

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    I was laid off recently and have been forced to get myself back into interview mode. This means prepping my suits for multiple rounds of interviews. However, during this process I realized that I have gained a lot o weight in the past year or so. I was a 44/46R. Now I'm looking at a 48R . Wearing such a large jacket feels odd. While it is not too tight or loose, it just seems big, probably because I'm not used to seeing so much fabric on me.

    I understand the concepts of fit from reading SF threads for the past few months. Those concepts are fine when applied to slim guys but I don tknow if they can all be applied when considering larger guys. Can you please post or direct me to pictures of well suited large men to help me visualize the fit cues that I should be following?

    By the way, I am hitting the weights and running in my freetime. I just wont get back to where I was by the time I (hopefully) start getting interview requests.

    Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.
     
  2. Kamala

    Kamala Well-Known Member

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  3. Golf_Nerd

    Golf_Nerd Senior member

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    I was laid off recently ...

    ... during this process I realized that I have gained a lot of weight ...

    ... those concepts are fine when applied to slim guys but ...

    ... by the way, I am hitting the weights and running in my freetime. I just wont get back to where I was by the time I (hopefully) start getting interview requests.

    Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.


    Hello,

    getting laid off is a big chance to change life.

    Your life must have been strange that you have realized NOW to have gained weight.

    Everbody is talking about the slim thing. A fitting suits is more impressive than a bad fitting suit (not everybody is looking like George Clooney but a suit will help fat guys too).

    They will not hire you for wearing a suit!

    If you have a lot of weight stop running and start walking (to loose weight you have the rest of your life).

    We never get back to where we started!
     
  4. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    boy, I hate to hit you with this - but when you are interviewing for a job it is very very important to be trying to lose weight. I was interviewing 2 years ago, and I am sure that several places really really liked me on paper, but then didn't offer me a job because they were turned off by my being fat. good luck.
     
  5. pitboss12

    pitboss12 Senior member

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    Kamala -- Thanks for the link.

    Golf -- A busy schedule, all 3 meals rushed and at a desk, and 16 hour days for a year will do it to you. Going full speed until a few months ago.
    I was a regular on the local 5k circuit, so running is my thing. I ate like I was still running but didnt expend the energy I was taking in. By the way, I dont understand what you mean by "They will not hire you for wearing a suit!" Can you clarify?

    Globetrotter: I am aware of the stigma. That's why I want to try to minimize the effect with clothing while I work on correcting the problem.


    Any more pics?

    Thanks.
     
  6. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    Pick out the best suit you have that is right for interviewing & set a goal to get back into it.

    I wish you the best with your career change.
     
  7. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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  8. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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  9. watchingdetails2002

    watchingdetails2002 Senior member

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    Thanks for asking this question. In this day and age they judge us by the cover and not the qualifications. I love watching this site but I am a large man and have run into the prejudice by others on the slim side of life. I might be heavy but honestly you can't catch anything from me! Here is what I have learned you dress for your size.... Don't wear pleats on your trousers, Fit your suit coat for the widest part on your body. Heavy men carry it in different places. You don't have to dress like you are wearing a potatot sack. Try this link for Rochester Big and Tall. http://www.rochesterclothing.com/sto...UURHDQ**.node2
     
  10. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    ok, I may get torn appart here - this is me in a bspoke suit. considering that I am obese, I think that this is a pretty good fit and drape.
     
  11. dba

    dba Senior member

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  12. Burzum

    Burzum Active Member

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    I'm not an expert all I can suggest is...

    Emphasize the vertical over the horizontal - I'm going to asume most of the weight is in the traditional weight gathering area for men (the stomach).

    SB - pinstripe, point collar, if you use a bulky tie knot go to a slimmer one - Half Windsor, Pratt (Shelby) Knot or FIH. As said above stay away from pleats, falt front or just a single pleat if need be. Going to a larger collar size for breathing room and so it doesn't pinch the neck, or one of those sliding collars (?) (you probably did that anyway).

    A good bespoke tailor should be able to do it all for you - but I expect you have more important things to spend your money on at this point in time.

    Stay away from collar bars (you probably don't use them anyway).
    Avoid cuffs on the trousers, again you probably don't wear them.
    Stay away from DB always looks awful on larger guys or the big boned as some of us say.

    Personal view - stick to 3 button notch lapel and when standing keep it buttoned (middle B). So that way people wont see any shirt rise or pant drop exposing the area your trying to hide. It should also hide the fact your tie is taking on a convex shape.

    Although jumping from 46 to a 48 I don't think you would look really heavy. More like you just had a big christmas I guess.

    Thats all I got...
     
  13. dba

    dba Senior member

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    Stay away from DB always looks awful on larger guys or the big boned as some of us say.

    I don't have any problems with big guys in DBs as long as they are comfortable in it. I agree, they do accentuate the horizontal axis somewhat but personally I think they can look better on wider gentleman as the buttons are up front and on display instead of looking like they are trying to roll off to the side. Some guys are big and are accepting of their weight so would kind of give off the attitude "I am fine with who I am, deal with it." I can't tell from globetrotter's pic if that's a DB or not on my monitor, but he looks quite happy. I think height may be a bigger factor in selection of a DB suit anyway as the jacket can sometimes appear longer and could dwarf a person of limited stature.

    Does anyone else have any thoughts on this? I'm 50/50 on whether I like DBs on myself. I am in the 5'8"-5'9" and 160 lb. range.
     
  14. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    I can't tell from globetrotter's pic if that's a DB or not on my monitor, but he looks quite happy. I think height may be a bigger factor in selection of a DB suit anyway as the jacket can sometimes appear longer and could dwarf a person of limited stature.

    .


    DB - I'm 5 4, and about 250 pounds in that picture. I like DB because I have pretty big shoulders, and I found DB to be flattering, but this is an issue that is hotly debated here. that's also a bespoke suit - no way in hell I could have found a DB suit that would fit me off the rack.
     
  15. dba

    dba Senior member

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    ^Well then I guess the vertical extension mind tricks of the DB worked as I would not have guessed you were only 5'4".
     
  16. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    ^Well then I guess the vertical extension mind tricks of the DB worked as I would not have guessed you were only 5'4".

    thanks - that is exactly what I said on a thread a while back - I think that with the right suit you can really de-emphasize aspects of your body you would like to de-emphasize, while accenting what you want to accent.
     
  17. literasyme

    literasyme Senior member

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    Not necessarily, it can sneak up on you quickly. I have gone up and down in weight quickly during period in my life (eg. 160 to 142 in 2 weeks) and went from 40R to a 42/44R in the summer of 2006 (150-180) so I can definitely understand where the OP is coming from.
    How does that work? I can see how your waistline would grow rather quickly (having suffered from some growth in that area myself over the last few years), but how would that affect your _suit_ size so drastically? Surely your shoulder width or your chest can't fluctuate that much -- so wouldn't it make more sense to look for suits with less drop, rather than size up? Don't you always wind up with ill-fitting (and hard-to-fix) shoulders otherwise?
     
  18. dba

    dba Senior member

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    How does that work? I can see how your waistline would grow rather quickly (having suffered from some growth in that area myself over the last few years), but how would that affect your _suit_ size so drastically? Surely your shoulder width or your chest can't fluctuate that much -- so wouldn't it make more sense to look for suits with less drop, rather than size up? Don't you always wind up with ill-fitting (and hard-to-fix) shoulders otherwise?

    Honestly, i'm not exactly sure but I suspect it has a lot to do with shoulder muscle/mass and what I'm doing at the time. Years ago when I dropped from 160 to 142 I was previously driving a truck and doing a lot of manual loading and unloading of 500lb. containers. Later on I got into sales and needed some suits. Having ceased pretty much all physical activity, 40R seemed to work well for me both by my own admission and the tailor's account. I bounced around 138-142lbs. at this time, though as I crept up toward 150, I felt as if my shoulders were drawing my sleeves upward a smidge. I don't know if they actually were or if it was just me being mental, but I remember feeling like I was outgrowing that size, like it was tighter in the shoulder area and shorter in the sleeve. In 2006, I was back doing phsyical labor rehabbing houses and 40R was just too snug so went up to 42R and almost 180 lbs. My comment about purchasing 44R is some brands just has to do with their particular styling. I am more concerned about shoulders than chest or waist because I hate a suit that is motion resctrictive....not that i'm going out to shoot some hoops in it, but I am always paranoid about busting a seam, lol. The age range we're talking here is roughly 25-30 so maybe it's just me filling out but I also have one shoulder with a serious drop so the body of the jacket was less of a priority. The only other big difference is I went from suits with padded shoulders to lately wearing the Polo brand suits which don't have much padding. That probably plays some role as well. Are my jackets ill-fitting? By SF standards, probably but like i said, now that I have shed about 20 lbs since I bought my recent round, I do want to have them taken in a bit later this year. And yes, the sleeves could stand a little bit of shortnening. Realistically, in terms of drops, I'm about a 7.

    It's not just suits. I went from a 32/33 shirt sleeve to a 34/35 as well (true 34 would be ideal if I wasn't so miserly in my shirt purchases). It may have something to do with my bad shoulder which I feel is continuing to drop.
     
  19. dba

    dba Senior member

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    I looked around to see if I had any pics in a jacket or suit but unfortunately this is the only one I could readily find. This is one of my beater suits. The pic doesn't show the sleeve ends but I am showing some cuff...not as much as many on here do, nor do I want to. This jacket is OTR w/o any alterations but was purchased when I was 15 lbs. heavier than when the pic was taken. It really doesn't illustrate the shoulder drop as dramatically as it would be looking straight on either.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. username79

    username79 Senior member

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    Now's a good time to lose weight, right? Probably should do that rather than upsize your clothes. Saves money. Only takes a month of hard work (or less) to drop from a 48-46.
     

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