Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[PCK1]

Yeah those are very nice...but in my opinion Aubercy is still the king when it comes to button boots.

I am very excited to see Koji Suzuki's leather choices...it seems he has many great textured calf options and many fun exotic choices...

 

[Gianni Cerutti]

didn't think I could be a fan of button boots but these are clean

It is very clean ... I agree. Anyway, for me it's beautiful. I'd do tomorrow morning.

 

[nutcracker]

Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop MTO / Pattern Order Fair 5/17~6/1

The semi-annual MTO fair brings us a selection of Hiro Yanagimachi shoes, in staple styles and leather choices, with a substantial discount. Made to the same bullet proof standard as their regular MTO and Bespoke shoes (by the same exact team of 4 craftsmen including Hiro-san), its amazing to see these offered for the same price as an EG / JL shoes.

The fair starts this Sunday (5/17), and the studio/workshop will be opened to any visitors (without appointment). Priced from 118,800 ~135,000 JPY, with a 3 months lead time. Accessories such as lasted shoe trees and are also available for extra.

Link to Hiro Yanagimachi webpage

 

[ThinkDerm]

they look like better carminas.

 

[PCK1]

The austerity brogue is very elegant...especially in that very dark brown calf.

 

[Gianni Cerutti]



Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop MTO / Pattern Order Fair 5/17~6/1

The semi-annual MTO fair brings us a selection of Hiro Yanagimachi shoes, in staple styles and leather choices, with a substantial discount. Made to the same bullet proof standard as their regular MTO and Bespoke shoes (by the same exact team of 4 craftsmen including Hiro-san), its amazing to see these offered for the same price as an EG / JL shoes.

The fair starts this Sunday (5/17), and the studio/workshop will be opened to any visitors (without appointment). Priced from 118,800 ~135,000 JPY, with a 3 months lead time. Accessories such as lasted shoe trees and are also available for extra.

Link to Hiro Yanagimachi webpage

how much does his bespoke? I really like

 

[Stefan88]

When it comes to Italian style tailoring in Osaka, I think you can`t go wrong with Coccinella. You may want to contact our friend, Bespoke-makers, who knows a lot more than I do when it comes to Kansai area tailoring.

I think Roberto Ugolini does his trunk shows at Coccinella.

@BespokeMakers

 

[Stefan88]

The austerity brogue is very elegant...especially in that very dark brown calf.

Agree. Looks very good.

 

[Macs]

how much does his bespoke? I really like

On his website the price for bespoke is 350.000 - 400.000 JPY for the first pair (with last creation) and 200.000 - 250.000 JPY for any subsequent pair made on the previous last.

Prices are appealing, but at least three visits to Japan are required (measurements, first trial, final trial).

Vigevano in definitely a shorter trip for me...
Even though I do not understand why Mr. Bestetti pricing for bespoke does not involve an higher price for last creation and a subsequent smaller price for shoes made on an existing bespoke last.

 

[Pope Paul]

Hello everyone, new to the forum and just jumped in what can only be the best thread!
Such nice looking shoes, knew that the Japanese made nice bespoke shoes but seeing all these is really enjoyable!

 

[nutcracker]



Hello everyone, new to the forum and just jumped in what can only be the best thread!

Such nice looking shoes, knew that the Japanese made nice bespoke shoes but seeing all these is really enjoyable!

Welcome to Styleforum! Glad you`re enjoying all the shoes on this thread!!

 

[nutcracker]



On his website the price for bespoke is 350.000 - 400.000 JPY for the first pair (with last creation) and 200.000 - 250.000 JPY for any subsequent pair made on the previous last.

Prices are appealing, but at least three visits to Japan are required (measurements, first trial, final trial).

Vigevano in definitely a shorter trip for me...
Even though I do not understand why Mr. Bestetti pricing for bespoke does not involve an higher price for last creation and a subsequent smaller price for shoes made on an existing bespoke last.

200K JPY ($1999 USD) for subsequent pairs~ yes that is a phenomenal price for Bespoke shoes (granted you pay for the initiation fee of 350K first pair)

from his English website:
http://www.hiroyanagimachi.com/en/order-system/index.html

 

[VRaivio]

As much as Yanagimachi's prices bring a smile to a shoe fan's face, I can't help but wonder how much he is paying himself at the end of the day. He is known and talented, so the HY workshop could raise their prices already. Artists deserve what they can get.

 

[Gianni Cerutti]

On his website the price for bespoke is 350.000 - 400.000 JPY for the first pair (with last creation) and 200.000 - 250.000 JPY for any subsequent pair made on the previous last.

Prices are appealing, but at least three visits to Japan are required (measurements, first trial, final trial).

Vigevano in definitely a shorter trip for me...
Even though I do not understand why Mr. Bestetti pricing for bespoke does not involve an higher price for last creation and a subsequent smaller price for shoes made on an existing bespoke last.

Thanks for your comment. Even for me Vigevano is much closer. In fact, I'm going to Bestetti Thursday for my second test of my Gladietor Bespoke. I'll show the pictures on his page.

He does not make the price difference for a simple reason. If you order a bespoke by him have already included the development and implementation of the shape. And because he wants to keep the forms. And part of his personal library.

 

[PCK1]

3 Koji Suzuki bespoke samples from his show at The Armoury NYC this past week...his famous double monk, his captoe, and a captoe in croc..and some photos of the soles and waists of the shoes.

I was very impressed by his work and finishing...his waists are crazy...

Even on the croc you can see he lined up the scales to make the captoe so it all flows perfectly.

I honestly was more impressed by his bespoke than by G&G's bespoke which I saw and considered ordering just a few weeks ago.

His MTO is different tho..the construction, treatment of the waists, and finishing are simply not on the level of Bespoke.

You could see in his bespoke a lot of the Italian influence that he picked up from Roberto Ugolini...but I found Koji's shoes to be a lot more clean and the details to be a lot more perfect than the samples that I saw in Ugolini's workshop in Florence this past Fall. Koji is all about the details...and everything is taken towards the level of perfection.

I ordered 2 bespoke pairs from Koji...my first from the Japanese makers...and arguably the best amongst the Japanese. He first investigated my feet with shoes off (felt them, etc.)...had me try on trial shoes in roughly my size to feel my feet in them...then had me stand on the papers and took very detailed measurements for maybe 10-15 minutes while we talked (he had a translator with him)...but he understood most of what I was saying. Then we spoke about the shape of the last (I opted for his long chiseled toe...which I find very elegant as you can see in the photos I have provided)...I may in the future have another last made by him for an almond toe...as his almond is also very beautiful. We talked about the style I would order and I tentatively ordered a double monk with hammered silver buckles and a 5 eyelet split toe derby (this shoe was beautiful and so clean unlike some of the English versions which I find to be very unattractive and too country-ish for my style. He told me though...that I can change the style after the last is perfected if I desire...

The process is at least one fitting shoe which he will come to New York with and then cut open...but I was advised that it will probably be two fitting shoes before he makes the final pair...and it would take upward of a year...so I can expect delivery in summer/fall of 2015.

I am thinking about placing a third bespoke order for a monk-loafer that he does (if you know Italian shoes you will know the style I refer too...as it is very popular in Rome). I think this shoe would be very good in a crocodile nubuck.

I asked Koji how many pairs of bespoke shoes he makes in a year and he told me less than 100.

If you have any questions about the process, let me know.

Koji was a pleasure to work with and I eagerly await my first bespoke pairs from him...and already anticipate that we will work together on several more pairs in the future.