Inferiority complex? Fabric from Asia

[damonallan]

Hi gang:

I've been hearing a lot from people ouside of Asia that you should really watch out for what you are getting because the fabric is probably inferior. Now how much of this is true and how much of this is just scare tactic to buy from traditional makers? Just curious. Has anyone had problems with fabrics, tailoring etc coming from Asia. What are the right questions to ask? I'd like to hear what peopl have to say about this "talk".

Damon

 

[bryce330]

Where's Policy when you need him??

 

[imageWIS]

What is this "˜Aisa' ?

Jon.

 

[countdemoney]

A lot of it is about where you go. For example, if you go to the Row, there is a defined standard and expectation of what cloth is used. There are a small number of mills who are well known and the merits of various cloth can be discussed with a degree of confidence (see some of the discussions on H. Lesser or Holland & Sherry, etc).

In Hong Kong and other parts of Asia, fabric is all over the map. You can get traditional western style fabric at some places, and others you're getting nylon made to look like wool. And there's a whole range in between. You either need to know your fabric, or you need to trust your tailor. Fabric also tends to run lighter because of the heat.

Much of the talk is about people who ran into a tailor who wasn't as honest and/or the individual had the expectation that they were getting something they weren't (you're not going to get the same wool used on Saville Row on a $400-$600 MTM suit).

I like MTM, and I've had a good experience so far. My initial set of clothes is coming up on 1-year and doing well. I've just received two new suits that look pretty good. We'll see how they wear.

For my money, the single best value in Asian tailoring is MTM shirts. I can't afford the really nice stuff, but here (hong Kong) I can pick up some stunning shirts custom fit for me. As I'm difficult to size, and someone on whom OTR clothes never fit correctly, this is like heaven. Because of my size, I also face a limited shirt fabric selection in the states. Here I can pick any fabric style and know that on the finished shirt any stripes or patterns will match up. I am enthralled by any shirt where the line continues unbroken from shoulder to sleeve and shoulder to back. I'm getting emotional just writing about it. Best of all, these shirts are what I would pay for OTR in the states.

On the other hand, if you can wear OTR with no fit problems, you will probably find better deals in the states by keeping a sharp eye on sales. Those Carlo Franco RTW shirts are gorgeous and look like a steal at the closeout price of $80 some dollars. Love that nailhead pattern.

 

[Teacher]

Where's Policy when you need him??

Perhaps Bryce does NOT rhyme with "nice." (It is funny, though.)

 

[christian]

Where's Policy when you need him??

Sure, Policy didn't win any friends with some of his statements, but I had no problems with him calling out people for making borderline racist statements.

 

[stache]

If I ever do it again I will buy my fabric here and take it there. The labor cost alone is incredibly cheap.

 

[Matt]

i remember someone posting positive reviews of Korean spun cloth, but have no experience of it myself

 

[Matt]

If I ever do it again I will buy my fabric here and take it there. The labor cost alone is incredibly cheap.

really?

 

[Alias]

Korean fabric isn't so bad, especially if you're dealing with the one called "Cheilain." Pretty nice stuff, and very affordable. My only nitpick is that QC isn't as perfectionistic as some of the bigger English/Italian brands or whatever, but I do believe Samsung (who makes this cloth) grants a full refund of any bespoke suit made with Cheilain if there is a defect in the cloth. I didn't want to take advantage of this great deal, because I would hate to have my tailor make the jacket a third time

(It's just a little one inch slub on the sleeve, hardly noticeable.)

 

[Baby Pink]

damonallan,

People who make these broad statements are either ignorant or wide-eye country bumpkins. You should judge for yourself on a case-by-case basis. There are dodgy tailors and there are great ones. You get this the worldover regardless of where you are. The best way to judge is to feel the cloth for yourself. Don't attache price premium to quality. These two don't necessarily equate to each other.

 

[damonallan]

Thanks Guys.

I've been dealing witha tailor there and he sends me fabric books. Good stuff, but not a lot of info on the books about counts, plys etc. I find Italians and Brits are more diligent this way. No complaints yet, but in doing some cost comparisons, I wonder why it is so cheap.

I have Samsung (Goldentex) fabric too. That seems to be their top of the line.

I am currently testing the Italian market as well. So far I'm impressed...but more expensive (of course)

Damon

 

[aspirant]

How does japanese and Indian fabrics compare now?