Inferior lining materials

[The Louche]

A couple of the first MTM suits I ordered when I first started-out a few years ago have polyester linings. I always knew that Bemberg was the ideal lining material, but falsely assumed that the maker would default to it. The linings don't really appear that inferior to Bemberg to me in terms of look feel. I have noticed, however, that a few of these lining appear to be "shedding" tiny little fibers that end-up wiggling out through the outside of the coat recently. Is this common with polyester linings? Is it a condition that will worsen with time? Or is not that big of a deal; the polyester will give comparable, if not as good, service to Bemberg?

 

[lee_44106]

are you sure it's not the canvass that's poking out? like maybe strands of the actual horsehair that makes up the canvass?

 

[The Louche]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

are you sure it's not the canvass that's poking out? like maybe strands of the actual horsehair that makes up the canvass?

Positive. I'm familiar with that condition as well. These fibers are actually only appearing in places where there is no canvas, such as the back and sleeves.

 

[jefferyd]

We call that migration, and yes, it's common with polyester, especially under the arms where there is a lot of friction.

 

[apropos]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

We call that migration, and yes, it's common with polyester, especially under the arms where there is a lot of friction.
Thanks for that.

Any other drawbacks to polyester you can think of? Curious minds wish to know.

 

[The Louche]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

We call that migration, and yes, it's common with polyester, especially under the arms where there is a lot of friction.

Thanks Jeff, nice to know. So I'm assuming I need to get these re-lined? Or should the migration stay at bay since it isn't occuring in high-friction areas?

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by apropos

Thanks for that.

Any other drawbacks to polyester you can think of? Curious minds wish to know.

It's hot and noisy and, well, polyester. blech.

Originally Posted by The Louche

Thanks Jeff, nice to know. So I'm assuming I need to get these re-lined? Or should the migration stay at bay since it isn't occuring in high-friction areas?
It will likely continue to get worse; it sometimes looks like the cloth is pilling but it's the migrating fibers that ball up over time. Where is it happening? There are a few other trims that can migrate as well, like chest felt or sleeve heads, though you are probably right about it being the lining.

It can be an expensive alteration to change the lining, depending on how the pockets are set. Pics?

 

[The Louche]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

It's hot and noisy and, well, polyester. blech.


It will likely continue to get worse; it sometimes looks like the cloth is pilling but it's the migrating fibers that ball up over time. Where is it happening? There are a few other trims that can migrate as well, like chest felt or sleeve heads, though you are probably right about it being the lining.

It can be an expensive alteration to change the lining, depending on how the pockets are set. Pics?

It is specifically happening at the back of the sleeves (behind triceps) and throughout the back of the coat on all affected garments. I will try to post pictures later.

Funny you should mention that sleeve head wadding can do this too; I had that happen on a blazer I bought from BB a few years ago. I got mad with the alterations tailor who examined it when he told me it was fusible. Not that I knew what it was, but I was sure it wasn't fusible. He called himself a tailor.

 

[jefferyd]

Hmph. Sometimes that cap is fused, but I've never seen fusing migrate like that. In fact, the fusible is there in part to prevent the sleeve head migrating. Get pics of the inside breast pocket too so we'll know what's involved in changing the lining. Oh, and sit up straight. Is it the car or the office chair?

 

[The Louche]

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Hmph. Sometimes that cap is fused, but I've never seen fusing migrate like that. In fact, the fusible is there in part to prevent the sleeve head migrating. Get pics of the inside breast pocket too so we'll know what's involved in changing the lining.

Oh, and sit up straight. Is it the car or the office chair?

Will do on the pics. I don't wear tailored coats when driving or working at my desk; got to keep those shiny elbows and forearms away as long as possible...