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Huntsman bespoke vs. Chester Barrie?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Fashionslave, Nov 18, 2004.

  1. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior Member

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    I'm relying on all you Savile Row bespoke experts on this one.I know Chester Barrie makes Huntsman RTW.I bought a Huntsman 2 piece suit from a consignement shop recently.It's got the functioning button sleeves,boutonierre thread,pleated waistband,and the signature Huntsman lavender striped cloth lining in the sleeves and waistband.I have a vintage bespoke Huntsman suit with the very same sleeve and waistband lining.Therefore,is this suit an actual Huntsman suit or Chester Barrie? This latest suit has a tag on the inner breast pocket with a place to put a name,but it was blank.Any thoughts,gentlemen?
     


  2. shoefan

    shoefan Senior Member

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    If it's a Chester Barrie, it would most likely have the following features:
    a Made in England hanger strip inside the collar
    a tag with size, model name, etc. in the left inside breast pocket
    a Huntsman label inside the jacket (like virtually all other RTW garments)

    Also, as I recall, the RTW Huntsman don't have a striped lining in the trousers (I don't have mine readily at hand to confirm).
     


  3. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior Member

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    It does have the Made in England hanger strip,whereas my other suit does not.It has the regal looking lion seal with "Made in England" in the pants and inside breast pocket.It has no model name.I've had Chester Barrie suits and this somehow seems different.Thanks for your input,Shoefan.
     


  4. A Harris

    A Harris Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    The suit you bough recently is RTW. The only tagging in a bespoke Huntsman is the label in the pocket with the firm name/customer name/date etc. The pants are also a big tip-off, Savile Row pants are very distinctively handmade, and usually with MOP buttons for the back pockets.
     


  5. Carlo

    Carlo Distinguished Member

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    Was on the Row visiting Darren yesterday and unless my meds are off Chester Barrie and Huntsman are across the street from one another and offset by 100 yards or so...

    Seems odd that they would be made by the same folks as the storefronts there are somewhat on the expensive side....

    Darren?
     


  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    So does that mean that Huntsman at no time made RTW suits, and they are all made by Chester Barrie?
     


  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes
    Huntsman started maybe 20 -25 years ago with RTW. The original suits were made by Chester Barrie, but over the years there might have been other manufacturers as well (I remember some years ago, seeing a rather Italian looking range.)
     


  8. Jill

    Jill Senior Member

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    Yup, we'll have to ask Darren.  I was just there yesterday.  They're across the street from one another, seemingly unrelated.  But I suppose they could have some kind of relationship.  Darren??  

    BTW, thanks for lunch.

    Never mind. I see that Chuck already answered this question.
     


  9. A Harris

    A Harris Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    If I understand your question, you are correct. All Huntsman RTW suits are/were outsourced, as would be expected. Though they will be made to the silhouette/spec of the firm who appears on the label. It's not like you are buying a Chester Barrie at a higher price.

    The bespoke suits are not made by Chester Barrie, of course.



    Here in the states, they sold Huntsman suits tailored by Cantarelli for a brief period. That could be them, though not necessarily so...
     


  10. Fashionslave

    Fashionslave Senior Member

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    Aha--I also detect Huntsman logo(inside)suspender buttons on my original Huntsman.Furthermore,on the jacket,under each arm,a center panel,so two seams under the arm,tapering down into a triangular point and forming a sinle seam.Wow,lots of handwork.Plus a heavier, more solid cloth on the original,I would say 34 oz.wool.
     


  11. babygreenspots

    babygreenspots Distinguished Member

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    If I understand your question, you are correct. All Huntsman RTW suits are/were outsourced, as would be expected. Though they will be made to the silhouette/spec of the firm who appears on the label. It's not like you are buying a Chester Barrie at a higher price.

    The bespoke suits are not made by Chester Barrie, of course.





    Here in the states, they sold Huntsman suits tailored by Cantarelli for a brief period. That could be them, though not necessarily so...



    Are these cantarelli ones fully-canvassed or fused?
     


  12. imageWIS

    imageWIS Stylish Dinosaur

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    OMG how old is this thread?

    Jon.
     


  13. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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