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How to get that nice roll on shirt collars

pablo

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I find smallest collar stays - ones about half the collar length - create this effect. The small stays add weight at the collar's edge and help bend the collar.
 

Reborn

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I think this also has something to do with collar height.

Low collars can cause the points to run along the collar bones and give that splayed out wide look.

All of Spoo's collars have enough height that the points will naturally fall down instead of getting pushed out. The points also reach under his lapels which will give some resistance to help cause that bowing look.

I think a lower collar would have his points sliding all the way under the lapels instead of butting up against them.
 

softy

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idfnl

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Originally Posted by softy
This.
Ok, well I have Kiton, Borrelli, Isaia, Brioni, Cuccinelli, etc and cant seem to get it to work, so ya, that's 1/2 the battle, but there's more. Also, some of my English shirts (T & A, Harvie & Hudson, etc) should do it. I think the mistakes I have been making have been stays that are too long and not knotting the knot high enough on the collar.
 

patrickBOOTH

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If you lay on your back and rest a grapefruit in between your clavicles and knot your tie over the grapefruit you should be ok.
 

idfnl

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
If you lay on your back and rest a grapefruit in between your clavicles and knot your tie over the grapefruit you should be ok.

Was about to pull a FTFY, but realized you may be serious
 

BBSLM

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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
First of all you need a really good spread. If you don't have a wide enough spread it will aid in airplane wings.

can someone explain this or post a picture? google was of no help.
 

idfnl

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Originally Posted by BBSLM
can someone explain this or post a picture? google was of no help.
Picture this without the Harry Connick wannabe, no jacket, buttoned 1 from the top, and imagine you were at work...
1996-floppy-collars-lg-56259093.jpg
 

softy

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Originally Posted by idfnl
Ok, well I have Kiton, Borrelli, Isaia, Brioni, Cuccinelli, etc and cant seem to get it to work, so ya, that's 1/2 the battle, but there's more. Also, some of my English shirts (T & A, Harvie & Hudson, etc) should do it.

I think the mistakes I have been making have been stays that are too long and not knotting the knot high enough on the collar.


IME the shorter pliable collar stays that come standard with the likes of Barba, Finamore, Borrelli et al (as mentioned upthread) can be of great use. The pliability is an afterthought, but they are 75% the length of a "full" stay. Did yours not have these?
 

texas_jack

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Originally Posted by idfnl
Ok, well I have Kiton, Borrelli, Isaia, Brioni, Cuccinelli, etc and cant seem to get it to work, so ya, that's 1/2 the battle, but there's more. Also, some of my English shirts (T & A, Harvie & Hudson, etc) should do it.

I think the mistakes I have been making have been stays that are too long and not knotting the knot high enough on the collar.


Well, the only shirts I have that do that are my big spread collar Borrelli shirts. None of my other ones do that. I don't do anything different with my ties. Not a coincidence.
 

greger

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Shirts with a nice roll are nice. But they need a larger curve on the front edge to counter the appearance of a reverse curve.
 

Fraiche

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Spoo needs to post a youtube instructional video on his impeccable shirt collars.

worship.gif
 

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