How to get that nice roll on shirt collars

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by idfnl, May 24, 2011.

  1. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

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    How do you guys consistently get that nice roll on your shirt collars just above the tie knot?

    Spoo always seems to get this right (rat bastard [​IMG]):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    personally i find I get a better one with a thicker knot.
     
  3. rsuhandy

    rsuhandy Senior member

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    I wasn't aware that shirts had lapels....?
     
  4. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Senior member

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    it starts with a good collar

    and dont let people press it
     
  5. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    it starts with a good collar

    and dont let people press it


    and probably skipping the collar stays.
     
  6. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

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    I wasn't aware that shirts had lapels....?

    [​IMG]

    and probably skipping the collar stays.

    No way, I end up with a pair of airplane wings at 3pm
     
  7. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    First of all you need a really good spread. If you don't have a wide enough spread it will aid in airplane wings.
     
  8. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    No way, I end up with a pair of airplane wings at 3pm

    haha. I have the opposite problem on most of mine.....they usually roll UNDER.
     
  9. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

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    First of all you need a really good spread. If you don't have a wide enough spread it will aid in airplane wings.

    The collars in the pics above are not spread
     
  10. steveoly

    steveoly Senior member

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    In addition to shirt / collar quality, I also think that the type of collar stay plays a role. I have a couple of Barba shirts which have great collar rolls. They came with flimsier, more pliable stays, which seems to allow a collar to roll better than the rigid plastic ones that come with say a Brooks Bros or TM Lewin shirt.
     
  11. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    1. Ensure that the "band" of the tie is as high inside the collar as possible. This allows the rest to drape down over, rather than curve around.

    2. Stiff collars. Whether fused or stitched a soft collar is the best way to end up with "wings". A firm collar can be shaped and left to its own devices.

    3. Effective collar stays. If you are really that bothered then try shaping some brass collar stays (The ones that come with Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are good for this. Alternatively (If you know a good optometrist who uses one of those heat-bend machines for glasses) have some stainless steel ones shaped to your liking.

    I have used a mixture of all three over the years and found (oddly) that a fused collar from a respected shirtmaker (read High Quality) is the best bet, but I used shaped stays mostly, because I don't like fusing in my collars.
     
  12. gladhands

    gladhands Senior member

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    1) When ironing the shirt, after you smooth out the collar, fold it over. once folede, only press the center of the collar...not the whole length. This will allow it to roll instead of having a sharp crease.

    2) Brass collar stays can be bent in such a way as to facilitate this roll.
     
  13. dirtyturk

    dirtyturk Well-Known Member

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    when you're putting on your tie, keep the top shirt button undone, flip up the collar and tie the tie just above the top button, then when you flip the collar and button the top button, the tie will be as high as possible on your neck, allowing a good collar to roll instead of being pushed out.
     
  14. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

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    Need Spoo's take...
     
  15. idfnl

    idfnl Senior member

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    when you're putting on your tie, keep the top shirt button undone, flip up the collar and tie the tie just above the top button, then when you flip the collar and button the top button, the tie will be as high as possible on your neck, allowing a good collar to roll instead of being pushed out.

    Makes sense, allow the knot of the tie to shape the roll.
     

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