How to get that nice roll on shirt collars

[idfnl]

How do you guys consistently get that nice roll on your shirt collars just above the tie knot?

Spoo always seems to get this right (rat bastard

):

 

[DerekS]

personally i find I get a better one with a thicker knot.

 

[rsuhandy]

I wasn't aware that shirts had lapels....?

 

[Trompe le Monde]

it starts with a good collar

and dont let people press it

 

[DerekS]

Originally Posted by Trompe le Monde

it starts with a good collar

and dont let people press it

and probably skipping the collar stays.

 

[idfnl]

Originally Posted by rsuhandy

I wasn't aware that shirts had lapels....?

Originally Posted by DerekS

and probably skipping the collar stays.

No way, I end up with a pair of airplane wings at 3pm

 

[patrickBOOTH]

First of all you need a really good spread. If you don't have a wide enough spread it will aid in airplane wings.

 

[DerekS]

Originally Posted by idfnl

No way, I end up with a pair of airplane wings at 3pm

haha. I have the opposite problem on most of mine.....they usually roll UNDER.

 

[idfnl]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

First of all you need a really good spread. If you don't have a wide enough spread it will aid in airplane wings.

The collars in the pics above are not spread

 

[steveoly]

In addition to shirt / collar quality, I also think that the type of collar stay plays a role. I have a couple of Barba shirts which have great collar rolls. They came with flimsier, more pliable stays, which seems to allow a collar to roll better than the rigid plastic ones that come with say a Brooks Bros or TM Lewin shirt.

 

[Blackhood]

1. Ensure that the "band" of the tie is as high inside the collar as possible. This allows the rest to drape down over, rather than curve around.

2. Stiff collars. Whether fused or stitched a soft collar is the best way to end up with "wings". A firm collar can be shaped and left to its own devices.

3. Effective collar stays. If you are really that bothered then try shaping some brass collar stays (The ones that come with Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are good for this. Alternatively (If you know a good optometrist who uses one of those heat-bend machines for glasses) have some stainless steel ones shaped to your liking.

I have used a mixture of all three over the years and found (oddly) that a fused collar from a respected shirtmaker (read High Quality) is the best bet, but I used shaped stays mostly, because I don't like fusing in my collars.

 

[gladhands]

1) When ironing the shirt, after you smooth out the collar, fold it over. once folede, only press the center of the collar...not the whole length. This will allow it to roll instead of having a sharp crease.

2) Brass collar stays can be bent in such a way as to facilitate this roll.

 

[dirtyturk]

when you're putting on your tie, keep the top shirt button undone, flip up the collar and tie the tie just above the top button, then when you flip the collar and button the top button, the tie will be as high as possible on your neck, allowing a good collar to roll instead of being pushed out.

 

[idfnl]

Need Spoo's take...

 

[idfnl]

Originally Posted by dirtyturk

when you're putting on your tie, keep the top shirt button undone, flip up the collar and tie the tie just above the top button, then when you flip the collar and button the top button, the tie will be as high as possible on your neck, allowing a good collar to roll instead of being pushed out.

Makes sense, allow the knot of the tie to shape the roll.