How I hate narrow-leg trousers

[WatchmeWhipWatchmena]

I received some Pini Parma trousers today through the post. The waist size 40 UK fitted my thighs nicely, but anything below that waist size was uncomfortable. Is it worth getting the waist size 40 and taking in the waist? I have read from various forums on this site that it's possible to take in the waist by 4 inches, but anything more will require a complete re-cut. Anyone had experiences with this?

My concern is that if my waist size does go back down to 33 will it just be a waste of money? I'd be effectively taking in the waist by 6 (due to side buckles) to 7 inches.

 

[breakaway01]

I received some Pini Parma trousers today through the post. The waist size 40 UK fitted my thighs nicely, but anything below that waist size was uncomfortable. Is it worth getting the waist size 40 and taking in the waist? I have read from various forums on this site that it's possible to take in the waist by 4 inches, but anything more will require a complete re-cut. Anyone had experiences with this?

My concern is that if my waist size does go back down to 33 will it just be a waste of money? I'd be effectively taking in the waist by 6 (due to side buckles) to 7 inches.

When the waist is taken in, the top of the seat also has to be taken in. This is tapered as you go down the seat. The limit to how much you can take the waist in is usually closer to 2 inches because the rear pockets start getting too close together. I'd also be concerned that the seat will start getting tight since you have a prominent/muscular seat. I doubt 4 inches will be possible.

 

[Mirage-]

I also completely hate excessively slim trousers and in particular narrow leg openings and have been saying so for a while. Not that I am extremely muscular, it's just that I think the super narrow opening is pointlessly uncomfortable when putting them on/off, looks disproportionate in general and especially if the trousers have pleats, and more importantly ruins any semblance of elegance as the trousers inevitably cling to calves (preventing one from wearing OTC socks) and break at the ankle in a disorderly manner that reminds me of sweatpants more than tailoring.
Which is so because people buy them passively (because that's all local shops offer, and pushy sales assistants claim it's the modern way) but then don't dare to hem them as short as such a narrow opening would require to keep a sharp line (i.e. basically the typical suitsupply "cropped" trouser look everybody laments - everybody says they're too short, but few realize they're so short because they're too slim).
I honestly think the majority of people, including those office workers that still wear jackets, have been wearing jeans and cheap washed chinos (slim and always elasticated too) in the office for so long that they evidently forgot that in tailoring one should usually prefer clean lines.

Some makers (very few) provide ample inlays for widening trousers, such as Cavour. But it is worth noting, as I have experienced, that it might leave visible marks in at least cotton and maybe other materials too. It is very light and I wear them with more pleasure than before, but even washing didn't hide the mark completely.

Berg & Berg had the best out of the box fit for me (the only trouser that only needed hemming) in their flat front model, though besides being very expensive for my finances, they also are very high waisted (which I find uncomfortable when sitting, at least without pleats). And they don't offer single reverse pleats at the moment, which tends to be my preferred pleat configuration.

Natalino was very large in my experience, so much that I had to size down and then take out the waist, but overall I liked them though I would still prefer a touch less tapering. They seem to have quite some problems with inaccurate size tables (and exchange turnaround) though which dissuaded me from more purchases.

I should also add I am not a fan of double forward pleats, which I invariably associate with Gurkha closures, Safari gear and/or and black and white photos of British men in India, and unfortunately this eliminates a few very traditional brands.
So, I am still looking for the right model of trousers.

 

[mikefrizellsr]

Try having 17' calves and 28" quads! I have to do M2M, Bespoke or have a tailor completely re-cut the trousers. I've gone to Bespoke. But I'm financial able, normal, especially men in their 20's mostly aren't able to afford such a luxury! I'm hoping now that the series "Mad Men" is in our rear view mirror the slim cut trousers are gone forever!

 

[mikefrizellsr]

When the waist is taken in, the top of the seat also has to be taken in. This is tapered as you go down the seat. The limit to how much you can take the waist in is usually closer to 2 inches because the rear pockets start getting too close together. I'd also be concerned that the seat will start getting tight since you have a prominent/muscular seat. I doubt 4 inches will be possible.

You have to take Pini Parma's to a tailor and have the calves let out. There is plenty of garment to do it.

 

[breakaway01]

You have to take Pini Parma's to a tailor and have the calves let out. There is plenty of garment to do it.

I wasn't talking about the calves. Was responding to a question about how far the waist could be taken in.

 

[breakaway01]

So, I am still looking for the right model of trousers.

I have long abandoned RTW/OTR for dress trousers. Sounds like you'd be a good candidate for custom.

 

[Mirage-]

Try having 17' calves and 28" quads! I have to do M2M, Bespoke or have a tailor completely re-cut the trousers. I've gone to Bespoke. But I'm financial able, normal, especially men in their 20's mostly aren't able to afford such a luxury! I'm hoping now that the series "Mad Men" is in our rear view mirror the slim cut trousers are gone forever!

I have been hearing people and fashion blogs say that the days of slim jeans (apparently nowadays all trends begin and end with jeans) are over, for... quite a few years. In fact, some women have switched, but men much to my dismay have definitely not. The brands haven't switched in the first place, and most men don't bother looking for something that isn't readily offered.
As a sidenote, I have in fact often considered trying on women trousers in a few plausible styles, e.g. casual cords. In one occasion I even ordered a pair from Massimo Dutti, which looked great for the price, but the size unfortunately wasn't correct, and I don't really have the nerve to try them in store.
But still probably not in tailoring, where women's tends to be so much flimsier, synthetic, and often overall lower quality than men's.
Indeed I have this long-standing distrust for sales assistants because they have repeatedly expected me to accept whatever the fashion is without objection, like most other men apparently do, and (most annoyingly) often seem to think that they can somehow social-pressure/shame me into buying their "modern" cuts that I dislike. I have had one mockingly tell me I might as well go to a (bespoke) tailor because I was never going to get the cut I wanted. Which I would love to do, but unfortunately it definitely wouldn't be financially responsible for the moment. And also feels excessive, do I really have to buy bespoke just for a larger leg opening?
Oh, and also had another tell my girlfriend (while I was in the dressing room), in a slightly patronizing tone, that I would surely change my mind and adopt the "modern way" as well eventually.

 

[mikefrizellsr]

I wasn't talking about the calves. Was responding to a question about how far the waist could be taken in.

sorry buddy l miss understood

 

[Spinster Jones]

Indeed I have this long-standing hatred for sales assistants because they have repeatedly expected me to accept whatever the fashion is without objection, like most other men apparently do, and often seem to think that they can somehow social-pressure/shame me into buying their "modern" cuts that I dislike.

This, right here, is truth. I hate shopping for this reason alone.

Walked into a showroom for one of the largest suit providers here in Norway, asked for a wide trouser cut, in a showroom with 30+ different cuts, and the guys basically just stared back at me, like I had asked the question he had dreaded all along.

I asked if there is a possibility of inquiring into if they provide wider cuts, and the sales rep said, "We have these ones, theyre large", and pointed towars something like a 6" opening. I pointed out that they were in fact not large, and then he said "I don't know what you're looking for then".

And also feels excessive, do I really have to buy bespoke just for a larger leg opening?

The answer to this is therefore, mainly yes.

 

[An Acute Style]

This, right here, is truth. I hate shopping for this reason alone.

Walked into a showroom for one of the largest suit providers here in Norway, asked for a wide trouser cut, in a showroom with 30+ different cuts, and the guys basically just stared back at me, like I had asked the question he had dreaded all along.

I asked if there is a possibility of inquiring into if they provide wider cuts, and the sales rep said, "We have these ones, theyre large", and pointed towars something like a 6" opening. I pointed out that they were in fact not large, and then he said "I don't know what you're looking for then".



The answer to this is therefore, mainly yes.

Re: Non bespoke wide leg.

I have a lot of success buying vintage Polo Ralph Lauren stuff on eBay. They have a great relaxed fit and wide leg opening varying from 8.5 to 10 inches.

A few modern brands making wider cut pants are Cathcart London and Scott Fraser Collection. Not the cheapest.

Luxire will also make us whatever we like. I’ve been wanting to send them a pair of pants to copy, but never got around to it. One day.