Help Me with My First Bespoke Buttondown?

[Shirtmaven]

point length is a question of fashion.
the short points are related to the present slimmer look.

if you walked around in the collar being worn by FA you would get plenty of odd stairs. as looks
very out of style

the band has to have lining

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

point length is a question of fashion.
the short points are related to the present slimmer look.

if you walked around in the collar being worn by FA you would get plenty of odd stairs. as looks
very out of style

the band has to have lining

If I wanted a shirt exactly like Astaire's, regardless of the stares it would get, how would you achieve it?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

If I wanted a shirt exactly like Astaire's, regardless of the stares it would get, how would you achieve it?

the fabric should have some body.
oxford, pinpoint oxford or no finer then a 100/2 broadcloth.
3 plys of the same fabric or pinpoint inside the broadcloth.

a standard lining in the collar band.
mark the button down buttons on the customer and then attach.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

the fabric should have some body.
oxford, pinpoint oxford or no finer then a 100/2 broadcloth.
3 plys of the same fabric or pinpoint inside the broadcloth.

Interesting, thanks. Are you saying that very light summer shirtings are a lost cause if one wants a nice, traditional roll like in Astaire's picture?

 

[Shirtmaven]

the roll is determined by the placement of the buttons for the buttondown/vs the weight of the interlining.

so if you have a very soft cotton/linen or light weight broadcloth it will crush rather then roll unless there is a lining with more body inside

 

[Ataturk]

Don't forget the stiffness of the placket if you're wearing it without a tie. Astaire's looks quite soft (self-lined?), though he's got something (pin? microphone?) holding it closed above the top button.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

This has been helpful. Thanks Foo, Shirtmaven and others.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Of course, part of the beauty of Astaire's OCBDs is how relaxed they fit--look at those sleeves! This would not go over well in forum land.

E.T.: I kind of think bespoke OCBDs are unnecessary. The shirts are sporty in origin and don't require the most exacting fit to look good. A little loose is better than a little tight. You can get Brooks Brothers to make you MTM shirts with unlined buttondown collars, but you must specify it yourself, as they won't ask. Mercer & Sons does a great collar, but it can be harder to work with their fitting system as they don't like to take more than a couple inches off the waist.

Most buttondown collars these days are too short and neat. You need a little more length, plus proper button placement, to get a good roll.

Agreed- if only anybody still made them like that.