Help me understanding the sizes of jackets please

[philippeb]

Hello.
I havent even introduced me to this frorum yet, and i thought it would be a good time now to allso explain a little further into my question.

I am a young man at 26, allmost done with my engineer studies and broke as any other student.
though i want to have an edge when it comes to going out and getting the job of my life, and what could be more important than dressing appropriate.
So of course i am going to buy second hand since my funds are pretty low.

So, here is where it gets a little tricky.

I am 5feet 8inch tall,187 lb and very muscular.
My waist is around 32" and my bust is around 44", so as some of you could guess, i have broad shoulders a big chest and slim waist.

If i should pick somthing that fits my chest size, i would go for a 44 or 42, but since i am so short a thought a size 40 would be better so i wont have to spend a lot on a tailor and getting a weird aesthetic look on the pockets.

So my question is more or less, how much does the size affect the shoulders of the jacket ?
eg. is there a lot of diffrence on the shoulders from a 40 to a 44/42 ?

I know i could go with short models, but there arent so many available where i live (denmark) close to nothing at all.


Looking forward to your replies, thanks

 

[GBR]

Don't simply depend on the size described, cut is very important and materially affects the fit.

The only real way is for you to go to some bricks and mortar shops, try on the suits on offer and buy the best fitting suit, whilst ignoring the labels. Don't be fooled by always buying the same make, different lines are cut (well, carved out by laser means in bulk) from different blocks and therefore vary.

 

[dfwcowboy]

The most important thing to fit is the shoulders, the chest, and the overall length as these things are hard and expensive to alter. So best to find a size that fits you in the shoulders and chest at a minimum. At 5'8", you are probably going to want a short, so look for something that is about 30" from the bottom of the collar to the hem or 31.5" to the top of the collar. Regular length jackets are probably going to make you look shorter and you may wish to avoid them.

Jackets with functional buttonholes are more difficult to alter in sleeve length, so avoid them if you need a different sleeve length.

If you don't have a well fitting jacket you can measure, it's best to go to a store and try on some sizes. Pick a big store that sells what you like at a high volume as that's what you're more likely to find on the used market. Avoid 3 button jackets unless it's a 3-roll-2 as they don't flatter us short guys.

 

[comrade]

Unless you have an opportunity to try on jackets you have a real challenge with your
build. A rule of thumb is to go by the chest measurement of the garment. With a 44" actual
chest, which I also have, you will need to get a 46 inch or more chest in a jacket. That would mean a
44 or 46 short for you. The shoulders should be 19" in or a bit more. Stay away from "slim fit"
for obvious reasons. If you find a jacket that fits in chest and shoulders, you will have to deal
with your disproportionately narrow waist with extensive alterations. You have a great build, but not
one the RTW clothing industry caters to.

 

[RFHansen]

Hi Phillipe,

Welcome to SF. I also live in Denmark. Today I was at the January sale at Troelstrup in Copenhagen. The guy working there kindly explained to me the different size categories. They have plenty of short model suits and coats (these run in the 20s category, i.e. with sizes like 24, 25, 27 etc.). And a lot of it is on sale right now. Tjek det ud.

 

[AlexE]

Welcome to the Forum and congrats on (almost) finishing your degree.

I agree that with your lack of experience and special built you will make a disasterous purchase if you order guesing the right size. You probably end up spending more on alterations than on the suit itself.

Go to a brick and mortar store and get measured and advised. If funds are short, than go for sales. Worst case: Figure out your size for a widely available brand and cut (e.g. Brooks Brothers in Regent cut) in a store and then search for used garments for this brand cut and size.

Good News for you. There are sizes beyond the regular 40, 42, 44 etc. They are labeled in US as "Short" or "Long".

 

[philippeb]

Hi Phillipe,

Welcome to SF. I also live in Denmark. Today I was at the January sale at Troelstrup in Copenhagen. The guy working there kindly explained to me the different size categories. They have plenty of short model suits and coats (these run in the 20s category, i.e. with sizes like 24, 25, 27 etc.). And a lot of it is on sale right now. Tjek det ud.

Ah, hello!
I actually thought nobody i Denmark cared to dress properly, guess i was wrong.
And thanks for the heads up.

The most important thing to fit is the shoulders, the chest, and the overall length as these things are hard and expensive to alter. So best to find a size that fits you in the shoulders and chest at a minimum. At 5'8", you are probably going to want a short, so look for something that is about 30" from the bottom of the collar to the hem or 31.5" to the top of the collar. Regular length jackets are probably going to make you look shorter and you may wish to avoid them.

Jackets with functional buttonholes are more difficult to alter in sleeve length, so avoid them if you need a different sleeve length.

If you don't have a well fitting jacket you can measure, it's best to go to a store and try on some sizes. Pick a big store that sells what you like at a high volume as that's what you're more likely to find on the used market. Avoid 3 button jackets unless it's a 3-roll-2 as they don't flatter us short guys.

Thanks for the advice, i will keep this in mind in the future.
Now, talking about the cuts.
It is my understanding that there are serval diffrent cuts, vut they are calssified like eg: Slim-fit, Classic fit, Modern fit (what i like to think the EU/Italian cut is) and some others i wont have to know since they wont be anything for me.
Am i correct or did i misread somwhere ?

And since i have a little muscular build, would it be better for me to go with single vent or noone at all ?
Or is it the other way around ?

Thanks.

 

[dfwcowboy]

Now, talking about the cuts.
It is my understanding that there are serval diffrent cuts, vut they are calssified like eg: Slim-fit, Classic fit, Modern fit (what i like to think the EU/Italian cut is) and some others i wont have to know since they wont be anything for me.
Am i correct or did i misread somwhere ?

And since i have a little muscular build, would it be better for me to go with single vent or noone at all ?
Or is it the other way around ?

Thanks.

Some manufacturers offer different cuts for their mainline rack suits/jackets. It's also true that different manufacturers will often fit differently even among the same size. That's why it's good to have a jacket that fits you properly, and then measure it which gives you a good reference for buying jackets online. The measurements you are most interested in are the sleeve length measured from the outside shoulder seam to the cuff, the length, usually measured from the bottom of the collar to the hem, the shoulder, measured at the widest point on the arm seams, the chest, measured with the jacket buttoned right below the arm pits, and the waist measured at the narrowest point. Sleeve length and waist are the easiest to alter, and taking in is easier than taking out.

As far as vents go, side vents tend to be the most flattering of most body types, IMO, but you'll usually only find them on higher end jackets as they are more expensive to manufacture. If you run across a side vented jacket at a 2nd hand store, it's one of the markers of a fine quality jacket.

 

[philippeb]

Some manufacturers offer different cuts for their mainline rack suits/jackets. It's also true that different manufacturers will often fit differently even among the same size. That's why it's good to have a jacket that fits you properly, and then measure it which gives you a good reference for buying jackets online. The measurements you are most interested in are the sleeve length measured from the outside shoulder seam to the cuff, the length, usually measured from the bottom of the collar to the hem, the shoulder, measured at the widest point on the arm seams, the chest, measured with the jacket buttoned right below the arm pits, and the waist measured at the narrowest point. Sleeve length and waist are the easiest to alter, and taking in is easier than taking out.

As far as vents go, side vents tend to be the most flattering of most body types, IMO, but you'll usually only find them on higher end jackets as they are more expensive to manufacture. If you run across a side vented jacket at a 2nd hand store, it's one of the markers of a fine quality jacket.

Great.
The indicator about sidevents being a mark of high-end is definitely some of the useful information i could use, that is somthing you cant read and learn in Bernhard Roetzel "Gentleman" book!

Anyways, i actually took the pleasure of buying a really nice Versace suit in a 54 reluar in december.
I took it to a tailor and asked him to fit it perfectly to me, so i recon that i will be haveing a suit with all my measurements in a while.

But i need to ask blunt, and thereby might seem a little dim.
The priority of measurements i need to have fitted when i buy a jacket would be: Chest > Shoulders > Length > sleeve length > Waist
Would that be somewhat right ?

Also, when i look at the jackets, i see EG: Short 44 Jacket with a 48 chest (just things im rambling out), but i thought a 44 jacket was for a 44" chest ?
Or should i go after jackets with 44" chest size EG: Short 42 ?

Thank you for helping me out here.

 

[dfwcowboy]

Great.
The indicator about sidevents being a mark of high-end is definitely some of the useful information i could use, that is somthing you cant read and learn in Bernhard Roetzel "Gentleman" book!

Anyways, i actually took the pleasure of buying a really nice Versace suit in a 54 reluar in december.
I took it to a tailor and asked him to fit it perfectly to me, so i recon that i will be haveing a suit with all my measurements in a while.

But i need to ask blunt, and thereby might seem a little dim.
The priority of measurements i need to have fitted when i buy a jacket would be: Chest > Shoulders > Length > sleeve length > Waist
Would that be somewhat right ?

Also, when i look at the jackets, i see EG: Short 44 Jacket with a 48 chest (just things im rambling out), but i thought a 44 jacket was for a 44" chest ?
Or should i go after jackets with 44" chest size EG: Short 42 ?

Thank you for helping me out here.

Your actual chest measurement is going to be different than what the jacket size measures. The reason being if those two things were the same the jacket would fit extremely tight, if at all and you would have no room for movement. The typical number given is a 4" variance, but some like their jacket to fit tighter or more loose.

The bottom line is that when you are buying a jacket 2nd hand is you should consider the cost of alterations in with your purchase. A jacket that fits you perfectly will need no alterations and would be worth more than a jacket you'll need to have altered. A jacket that needs only alterations to sleeve length and waist size can usually be altered cheaply unless the sleeves have functional buttonholes. A good idea is to start developing a relationship with your local tailor before you make your purchase. They should be able to take your measurements properly and offer advice on sizing and on what they can and can't do.

 

[philippeb]

Your actual chest measurement is going to be different than what the jacket size measures. The reason being if those two things were the same the jacket would fit extremely tight, if at all and you would have no room for movement. The typical number given is a 4" variance, but some like their jacket to fit tighter or more loose.

The bottom line is that when you are buying a jacket 2nd hand is you should consider the cost of alterations in with your purchase. A jacket that fits you perfectly will need no alterations and would be worth more than a jacket you'll need to have altered. A jacket that needs only alterations to sleeve length and waist size can usually be altered cheaply unless the sleeves have functional buttonholes. A good idea is to start developing a relationship with your local tailor before you make your purchase. They should be able to take your measurements properly and offer advice on sizing and on what they can and can't do.

Well, that makes sense.

Regarding the alterations.
I dont know if im having the wrong priorities, but actually the first thing i look for, is all the signs i can find wether it would be a quality build rather a cheap one.
I mean, i don't mind spending a little extra on a good quality suit that would last me some years and i love to wear.
But i would hate spending money on a poor quality suit that fits me, but looks awefull and making me sweat like a carpenter at work.

I have known this tailor for some time, since i practice martial arts on a higher level (karate, brazillian jiu jitsu, muay thai and mma), therefor i often have damaged equipment or need changes on a gi or patches from my dojo/sponsor, or anything like this.
So i am used to having to spend a little extra for the pleasure of having somthing that works with my body (gi's are even harder to find in my size).

But i will take your advice and have a little chat next time i visit to pick up my suit.

 

[Tinkertrain]

I think it all depends on the chests mesurement

 

[Quesjac]

i want to have an edge when it comes to going out and getting the job of my life, and what could be more important than dressing appropriate[?]

Being good at your job, I'd imagine.

I am 5feet 8inch tall,187 lb and very muscular.

You're easily within the average range for OTR tailoring, you just need to have the jacket waist tailored if there's too much space.

I know i could go with short models, but there arent so many available where i live (denmark) close to nothing at all.

Look harder/on the internet then. If you're short, you need a short size. A regular can't be shortened much by a tailor without the pockets etc. ending up in the wrong place.

 

[philippeb]

Being good at your job, I'd imagine.

You're easily within the average range for OTR tailoring, you just need to have the jacket waist tailored if there's too much space.

Look harder/on the internet then. If you're short, you need a short size. A regular can't be shortened much by a tailor without the pockets etc. ending up in the wrong place.

Thanks for the reply.

i will try and look harder on the internet.

Oh, and regarding the job, of course i will do my best to be great at my job.
i think i articulated myself wrong here.
I mean, by dressing properly, that i wont end up not getting the job because i dress bad.
Lets be honest, the first impression means a lot.

 

[Quesjac]

Thanks for the reply.

i will try and look harder on the internet.

Oh, and regarding the job, of course i will do my best to be great at my job.
i think i articulated myself wrong here.
I mean, by dressing properly, that i wont end up not getting the job because i dress bad.
Lets be honest, the first impression means a lot.

No problem. You might try the internet retailers with free returns like suit supply, so that you can test 42 short and some other sizes.