After reading all the good things said about Jantzen, I want a "piece of the pie." But I need some help on fabrics/weaves, as I'm kind of new to this shirt thing and feel a little overwhelmed. I know what twill and herringbone are, for instance, but what's French oxford (as opposed to just oxford)? What does Jantzen mean by just "plain cotton"? Further, which weaves are appropriate for which occasions? Some must be seasonal, while others year-around; some must be more formal, while others more casual. If somebody can break this down, that would be great.