Getting Older- but Still want Quality Selvedge denim: reccommendations?

[LA Guy]

This may be heresy in 2015, but have you looked at Rag&Bone? The branding is minimal, the denim is of a high enough weight for you to get that "heft" that a lot of men like, but not so heavy (I wore 23 ounce jean yesterday, and taking them off at the end of the day was literally like taking a weight off) that they cause any discomfort or look odd paired with lighter weight tops. There are also a fair number of cuts from which to choose, and a lot of them have a sulfur top, which gives that nice, dark, undertone. They are all sanforized, which takes away the shrinking.stretching, issues. I would like to recommend Momotaro and Japan Blue as well, but even their tapered cut, which I wear, though reasonably comfortable in the thighs, with a nice taper to the ankle, have a pretty slim (relatively speaking, of course) top block and seat.

 

[Gus]

I've actually been on the lookout for a great fitting pair of plain pocket denim similar to what @notwithit describes but I haven't found it. They can't compare to the fit of the LVC 1947 or 551ZXX for my build. Most are too skinny in the knee or thigh or too short in the inseam. To me, it is the one niche area of denim that still offers an opportunity for a manufacturer. The plain back pockets, a moderately trim leg with a finer, dense weave denim would offer a welcome modern look that would be ideal with a tailored jacket.

 

[Perception.]

Where are you located? From there, we can direct you to stores which you may be interested in.

 

[kbuzz]

I'm in NYC so if assume BIG or Self Edge. But I'm open to suggestions and or recommendations

Re SE or SE If anyone knows a particularly helpful and knowledge sales person or manager to ask for that would be great

 

[Gus]

One of the more remarkable sources of Sugar Cane denim and workwear in the US is this company in NJ - History Preservation Society. Read the About Us, kinda cool. Call them and discuss your needs. Their communications are friendly, highly detailed and very informed. They give very detailed feedback on fit and will measure their inventory to find you the right pair.

Here is a link to their Sugar Cane 1947 type II that offers plain rear pockets and a slightly revised fit. http://www.historypreservation.com/...ge-denim-jeans-dungarees-pre-shrunk-one-wash/

This will be my next pair of denim.

 

[Gus]

History Preservation Society also carries Buzz Rickson and Eastman Leathers. You can get lost on their website for a while.

 

[Omega Man]



I'm in NYC so if assume BIG or Self Edge. But I'm open to suggestions and or recommendations

Re SE or SE If anyone knows a particularly helpful and knowledge sales person or manager to ask for that would be great

For BIG - Gordon is your man.
For SE NY - Andrew is your man. As a matter of fact, anyone from SE can help you. They have a vendor thread here. Kiya is the owner and he knows everything about denim.

 

[RPMWEST]

Quote:
All of these are quality options. What in particular are you looking for? Do you look for a specific fabric origin (Japanese v. American) or styles (specific rise etc.)?

 

[kbuzz]



All of these are quality options. What in particular are you looking for? Do you look for a specific fabric origin (Japanese v. American) or styles (specific rise etc.)? 

I want to thank everyone for the thoughtful and informative replies. This board is truly a source of great info.

Pocket square guy-your recommendation on the sc 1947 version two is a good one. I just sold my sc 1947 version one, as the pair was a bit tight I the waist and sloppy on the hips. Wifey said it was looking a little dust bowl. Lol I'll look into version two for a pair of kick around jeans.

This leads me back to my original, post which probably should have been better articulated. Since I have closet full of older generic usa and Mexico shredded and faded 501s I'd like to find something a bit neater-as I tend to agree with the other post that even newer 47s are not as "dressy" but that's a silly term to be used with discussing denim. Lol

So it goes back to a comfortable cut that's in between a traditional 501 and a too skinny teenage looking pair. I'd prefer plain pockets bit that's minor compared to fit. I would guess that that means medium to higher rise, biut not sure on that.

I don't have a preference in Japanese or usa denim, other then too say that some of the 45 rpms and pure blue Japan's I've seen have some wonderful coloring.

The response have piqued my interest in 3sixteen and telson, in I addition to the momotoro and pbjs I mentioned in my op.

So,I guess the bottom line is two fold. Find a pair to fit well to my true odd sized 35" inch waist, and In a cut that skews a little more mature without getting like that old guy with Norman Marcus relaxed jeans, paired with a loud untucked ugly shirt and loafers....I truly don't want to that guy, or look like an aging codger trying to squeeze into my sons skinny jeans.....

So thanks again, and for the past and any future comments. The goal here is to find the right pair, so I can then explore different fabrics, like indigo/black or heavy weight 21ozs for winter.....

The suggestions re limiting to one wash is a great one, as it will allow to focus on the cut ranger then unknowns on eventual waist size.

 

[RPMWEST]

Quote:
Tellason's Sheffield cut could be something for your (US Cone Mill Denim). The rise should work. They also offer a waist size 35 which is unusual.

I am also the founder of a premium denim company but we currently only offer a 34 and 36 waist - RPMWEST Denim Co.

Anyway, it'd be curious to hear what decision you made and if you are happy with it. Please do send out an update.