Fused v. canvassed

[Ambulance Chaser]

The most significant change in my wardrobe habits since I became a member of this Forum is to buy canvassed suits and sportsjackets whenever possible.  At the same time, I am not averse to buying fused garments, particularly if the cut is right and the fusing is thin.  What is your attitude toward fused and canvassed garments?

 

[MilanoStyle]

I agree. I am hesitated to buy fused suits. But I saw some lower end suits cost around $300 CAD but it had s130 fabric. By look of it, it certainly looks high end suit.. I did not try it on though.

 

[imageWIS]

Off the top of my head I currently own the following sartorial items: Canvassed: Zegna: 3 RTW SB 3-button Napoli Couture suits 3 MTM SB high-gorge Lapelled Vests (15milmil15 & Trofeo) RLPL (By Chester Barrie): 2 RTW SB 3-button low "˜English' gorge jackets (one with ticket pocket

) 1 RTW SB 3-button high-gorge Linen ¼ lined jacket (with Patch Pockets) Fused: RL Polo (Blue Label): 1 MTM 3-Button, 3 piece (with lapelled vest) Suit 1 RTW Overcoat 1 RTW 3-Button SB Jacket (Really soft, ultra-thin Cashmere) Now, as much as the canvassed items seem to move in a more "˜natural' manner, I will at least say that all the lapels of the RL Polo items have canvassed Lapels and on the MTM and Jacket, the chest pieces seem to be canvassed and not fused, but I could be incorrect. What is definitely fused is the lower end of the jacket where the jacket ends, especially at either end of the front of the jacket and in the rear between the vents. Thus, since at least the lapel is canvassed, it helps the jacket look a lot better, because it allows for a more natural roll. Yes, I rather have bespoke H.Huntsman items, but seeing as the RL Polo items frequently are available at deep discounts; I think I'll keep compromising quality for price. Jon.

 

[dah328]

I'll only buy a fused jacket if it's a casual jacket from which I don't expect much wear. All of my business suits from here on out will be canvassed.

dan

 

[dorian]

Jon,

How was your experience with Blue Label MTM?

My salesperson is always pressing me to try RLPL MTM (although 38/39/40 in Purple Label is absolutely perfect RTW for me - size depending on the model of coat), and so I figure I ought to see how they do with Blue Label MTM first. I want to see how accurate the measurements are first and foremost, as opposed to comparing Saint Andrews and Corneliani.

Any info would be great.

 

[johnnynorman3]

I agree with Dan. Five months ago I said I'd fill my closet with half good fused and half canvas. But why? I would only wear the canvas. They do look better, feel lighter, and make me feel better about myself. I'll go one further though -- I will not buy a suit unless I really love it. Why spend $500 on a Canali that I'm "eh" about when I can spend $800 and get the Oxxford that I just did, which on me fits and feels light years better from the Canali (I thumbs up for Oxxford, not a knock to Canali). IMO, if I get a $200 Nautica suit from Marshall's it will (1) look like crap in a year -- and will obviously never look as good as even a mid-level canvas suit, and (2) I'll just keep regretting buying it and looking for a replacement, which will cost me time AND money. In the end, my closet should look like the following within the next two months: 1 Aquascutum full canvas navy pinstripe suit 2 Oxxford suits (Charcoal, and ?) (not sure what my 2nd Oxxford will be, but I'm going to get one -- I probably go with a navy blue of some sort). 1 WW Chan MTM Navy Blue 1 Brooks Brothers by Cantarelli black suit 1 RLPL suit in medium/dark grey pinstripe 1 Arnold Brandt suit (fused, but good fabric and pattern -- will be more of a snow day suit and I love the pants) Perhaps one more high end, like PL or Oxxford or something I'll pick up via an A. Harris auction.

When I figure that my purchases should last for several years (I don't change weight easily and they all fit very well right now), my purchases look economically and sartorially wise IMO.

 

[drizzt3117]

I have a mix but the majority of my suits/jackets are canvas.

My closet consists of:

Suits:
Solid Navy Brioni SB
Pinstripe Black Brioni SB
Pinstripe Charcoal Red Zegna SB
Pinstripe Charcoal Blue Zegna SB
Solid Charcoal Oxxford SB
Pinstripe Navy Oxxford SB
Solid Black Belvest SB
Pinstripe Black Belvest SB

I wanted one solid and one pinstripe in each of my primary suit colors and I picked up a couple extra along the way.

Jackets:

Brioni Solid Grey DB
Brioni Pinstripe Blue SB
Oxxford Pinstripe Navy SB
Oxxford Solid Charcoal SB
Oxxford Pinstripe Black SB
Oxxford Solid Navy SB
Theory Solid Charcoal SB Cotton
Varvatos Solid Black SB Cotton

I'm pretty much done buying suits/jackets now, I think I have all of the basics more or less covered.

 

[tdial]

I can definitely tell the difference between the canvas constructed versus fused suits in my closet. However, I don't dislike the fused garments, they just aren't my favorite suits, nor are they suits I would wear in the most special occasions. But they are fine for everyday/office wear.
Canvas:
Borrelli blue herringbone
Borrelli blue pinstriped
Borrelli charcoal pinstriped
Borrelli solid blue
Canali blue pinstriped
Canali olive
Canali light grey
Jil Sander charcoal
Jil Sander blue with red pins
Jil Sander charcoal flannel
Baldessarini (Hugo Boss) grey w/purple pins
Baldessarini (Hugo Boss) black with red pins
and a blue with light blue bespoke suit in the making

Fused
Dolce & Gabbana heather suit
Gucci black 2-button (this might be canvased, but I really can't tell)
Hugo Boss chocolate brown heavy wool (this is a fun suit to wear with a button down, or more casual shirt)
Prada black/rust pin (don't wear this one at work, but sometimes out)
Paul Smith black with small pin (this also might be canvased, or canvased lapels).
Valentino, black with beige pins, two button. My brother gave me this suit. It's decent. I don't like wearing it with a tie since the button stance is so low.

So the fused suits I own I don't consider my "best" suits, but are fun to wear and have more fashion forward styling for night time, less formal occasions.

I guess my thesis is that there is room for both in my closet.

 

[MilanoStyle]

Here is my growing collection:

Canvassed:

Mid night blue pinstripe 3 button suit by Canali.
Gray solid pinstripe 3 button suit by Canali.
Mid nighit Blue with silver dot 2 button suit by Brioni.

Fused:

Grayish striped S150 3 button MTM Armani Collezioni suit
Black pin striped 3 button by Hugo Boss
Solid mid night Navy3 button suit by Hugo Boss
HoundsTooth 3 button sports jacket by hugo Boss
Mid night blue 3 button sports coat by Hugo Boss.

My next suit going to be Attolini, then Borrelli .. I do not know which color or pattern though

 

[Brian SD]

jon, judging by your wardrobe ALONE I could say you are from florida.

 

[Alias]

I think fusing would work a lot better on light and relatively fragile fabrics than canvas. It helps keep the shape better instead of having the fabric wrinkle "nervously" around the chest and waist.

 

[imageWIS]

jon, judging by your wardrobe ALONE I could say you are from florida.

How did you come to that deduction?

Jon.

 

[imageWIS]

Jon,

How was your experience with Blue Label MTM?

My salesperson is always pressing me to try RLPL MTM (although 38/39/40 in Purple Label is absolutely perfect RTW for me - size depending on the model of coat), and so I figure I ought to see how they do with Blue Label MTM first. I want to see how accurate the measurements are first and foremost, as opposed to comparing Saint Andrews and Corneliani.

Any info would be great.

Well, unfortunately, there are a lot of variables that determine if your MTM experience will be a satisfactory one. First and foremost, does the RL store that you are considering ordering from have an in-house tailor? If so, then have him / her take the measurements, and not a sales person, at the same time make sure they are competent enough that they can understand what you are looking for, and that they will be able to properly alter the MTM item after it arrives from the factory. This goes for either Polo or RLPL. If the tailor in your experience is not competent enough for your expectations, DO NOT order the suit to "try them out" except if you have a ridiculous amount of money and want to take a chance on their tailor / salespeople's tailoring skills / measuring ability and do not mind getting upset over a suit that might look horrible on you, not meet your expectations, etc... then by all means try them, I on the other hand, would take my business elsewhere if that were the case (this is why I don not use the tailor at the RL store on Worth Ave, he just fails my expectations).

Now, if RLPL RTW fits you almost perfectly (and you have no problem affording it at full retail / MTM prices) then I would recommend RLPL MTM, since the patterns for MTM are based on RTW, all they will do is build the suit based on how close those patterns they can get to your dimensions. On top of being a fully canvassed suit, the fabrics will be of a higher quality; the handiwork will be more apparent and throughout the item than in Polo items. At the same time I do not own a RLPL item made by St. Andrews, so I can only attest to their quality as to what I have read on the Internet and various magazines, perhaps a forum member has first hand experience?

Jon.

 

[dorian]

Thanks, Jon.

Yes, Saint Andrew's is first-rate, imo.

Although the tailor at the "RL mansion" in NYC is quite good, I'll probably hold off on the MTM since RTW does fit so well.

Thanks for the reply...

 

[imageWIS]

Thanks, Jon.

Yes, Saint Andrew's is first-rate, imo.

Although the tailor at the "RL mansion" in NYC is quite good, I'll probably hold off on the MTM since RTW does fit so well.

Thanks for the reply...

Ah, yes the Rhinelander mansion...beautiful store. As long as the tailor is good and RTW fits you just fine, your decision not to move into MTM is probably best.

Jon.