For the love of d'Avenza

[comrade]

Is there any connection between this unknown Simon Ackerman label and D'avenza ? View attachment 1923613

The Simon Ackerman storyFrom a post in 2020 with my comment/ question in the second paragraph.

*Disclaimer: D'Avenza has a rich history that speaks to the business genius of Simon Ackerman - who melded British and Italian tailoring. It's a mystery why d'Avenza so badly failed to market its goods since the 1950s - it could have been Brioni or Kiton - and should have been on par with those "brands" - but it never achieved even a 10th of their market-share. Jonathan Clay could write a novella about the company. Bill White could also tell you a great deal about the final years of d'Avenza (and his own efforts to introduce it to America which failed miserably). There's a lot about the company that we'll never know because there don't seem to be good records or archives (I've looked!), and most of the head cutters are dead. The company has been in bankruptcy multiple times, and is now - essentially - dissolved (so there's no "keeper of the archives" --- the various owners over the decades have lost their proverbial shirts, so they weren't particularly concerned with keeping the heritage alive the way Zegna has, for instance). Whether Clay will do anything with the name remains to be seen (as he has allegedly bought the trademarks associated with d'Avenza).

Is this the same Simon Ackerman that sold mid- level "sharp"
suits to clueless New Yorkers in the 1950s? I had relatives who
swore by the non- Ivy dreck they purchased from SA during the
height of the Ivy Style era. The stores folded in the mid 1960s:

 

[jmclay]

If you see an internal logo that looks like the attached picture, OR a paper hang tag that isn't "directly" attached to the edge of the sleeve and folded over (by thread), then you are looking at the NEW garbage from d'Avenza.

Jonathan Clay has rebooted d'Avezna. To the best of my knowledge, Clay's "new incarnation" of d'Avenza isn't yet for sale. I am incredibly skeptical about Clay. NOT that Clay is illegitimate --- he's a stand-up guy with a TON of clothing industry experience. The problem I have with any "new" form of d'Avenza is that it comes down to:

1. D'Avenza once had the best tailors in Italy making the best ready-to-wear. They don't anymore.

2. D'Avenza has NEVER, and I mean NEVER, been a brand that anyone cared about (outside of a handful of us). The brand has never gotten any traction. Why would Clay make it work? He won't.

There are 4 internal tags that AAE posted above. ALL OF THOSE are good. All of those are "pre-Brand-Amour" and "pre-Jonathan-Clay."

Below (attached) are two photos of what to avoid. If you see anything like this, don't buy it. It's trash. The owner of Blueprint 5 in Rhode Island told me that the "new" d'Avenza stuff is so terribly made that half of it was returned by customers because it fell apart.

It's not just "construction" issues (like canvassing), it's literally "construction issues" (like, it will fall apart into dust).

The TELLTALE sign is the "red cardinal" logo (or mascot/icon) on the hang tag. If you see a red cardinal you are looking at the worst stuff on Earth. The "red cardinal" means it was laser cut by workers for "Brand Amour" who had zero knowledge of clothing manufacturing.

Hello Gatsby
Thought I’d put in my two pence and try and clarify a few things.

d’Avenza was set up in 1957 by Myron and was part of the Chester Barrie group.

At that time and until mid 70’s Chester Barrie with d’Avenza and an overcoat factory in Wrexham had 1500 employees making hand made garments
Don’t think that any other company reached that level or number of employees.

In the mid 70’s d’Avenza had a 2 year waiting list until the end of the 80’s when my father left the business due to health reasons.
Since it’s decline and bankruptcy in 93 it was bought by an entrepreneur that had no knowledge of the business and constantly changed management which gave it no consistency.
Brandamour was indeed a mistake and for 3 years the product was not relevant to the brand.
Since I have taken the brand I have reopened a small tailor shop in 2021 in Carrara to continue the heritage and my head of quality Michele Rella joined d’Avenza in 1976 and does a fantastic job today and we are making some of the finest garments in the world like jackets in vicuña or evening wear in satin silk.
The current market we have concentrated on is Europe where we have some fantastic stores carrying our brand.

We have opened an office in NY and am sure you will see our product soon

Wishing all of you a prosperous 2024!
JC

 

[Camerashy]

Hello Gatsby
Thought I’d put in my two pence and try and clarify a few things.

d’Avenza was set up in 1957 by Myron and was part of the Chester Barrie group.

At that time and until mid 70’s Chester Barrie with d’Avenza and an overcoat factory in Wrexham had 1500 employees making hand made garments
Don’t think that any other company reached that level or number of employees.

In the mid 70’s d’Avenza had a 2 year waiting list until the end of the 80’s when my father left the business due to health reasons.
Since it’s decline and bankruptcy in 93 it was bought by an entrepreneur that had no knowledge of the business and constantly changed management which gave it no consistency.
Brandamour was indeed a mistake and for 3 years the product was not relevant to the brand.
Since I have taken the brand I have reopened a small tailor shop in 2021 in Carrara to continue the heritage and my head of quality Michele Rella joined d’Avenza in 1976 and does a fantastic job today and we are making some of the finest garments in the world like jackets in vicuña or evening wear in satin silk.
The current market we have concentrated on is Europe where we have some fantastic stores carrying our brand.

We have opened an office in NY and am sure you will see our product soon

Wishing all of you a prosperous 2024!
JC

Any links to your outlets please JC

 

[jmclay]

Hi Camerashy
I believe it would be construed as advertising so my suggestion is to keep an eye on the web site where we will be updating new accounts in the US especially after the January Pitti Uomo show in Florence

Thanks for your interest
JC

 

[Camerashy]

We’re D’Avenza part of the Chester Barrie Group when they had a factory in Crewe Cheshire
I visited the factory shop a few times for work suits

Hi Camerashy
I believe it would be construed as advertising so my suggestion is to keep an eye on the web site where we will be updating new accounts in the US especially after the January Pitti Uomo show in Florence

Thanks for your interest
JC

 

[jmclay]

We’re D’Avenza part of the Chester Barrie Group when they had a factory in Crewe Cheshire
I visited the factory shop a few times for work suits

Yes the factories split in 1976. Austin Reed took over the Crewe factory and d’Avenza became independent.
Before the brand didn’t exist. They made under the Chester Barrie label and shipped the suits to Crewe to finish or in the Italian market as Simon Ackerman

 

[JohnMRobie]

Hello Gatsby
Thought I’d put in my two pence and try and clarify a few things.

d’Avenza was set up in 1957 by Myron and was part of the Chester Barrie group.

At that time and until mid 70’s Chester Barrie with d’Avenza and an overcoat factory in Wrexham had 1500 employees making hand made garments
Don’t think that any other company reached that level or number of employees.

In the mid 70’s d’Avenza had a 2 year waiting list until the end of the 80’s when my father left the business due to health reasons.
Since it’s decline and bankruptcy in 93 it was bought by an entrepreneur that had no knowledge of the business and constantly changed management which gave it no consistency.
Brandamour was indeed a mistake and for 3 years the product was not relevant to the brand.
Since I have taken the brand I have reopened a small tailor shop in 2021 in Carrara to continue the heritage and my head of quality Michele Rella joined d’Avenza in 1976 and does a fantastic job today and we are making some of the finest garments in the world like jackets in vicuña or evening wear in satin silk.
The current market we have concentrated on is Europe where we have some fantastic stores carrying our brand.

We have opened an office in NY and am sure you will see our product soon

Wishing all of you a prosperous 2024!
JC

Interesting- I’ve got a piece made in spring 2022 on its way to me. I’ll have to compare to my older stuff and post some results in here.

 

[jmclay]

Interesting- I’ve got a piece made in spring 2022 on its way to me. I’ll have to compare to my older stuff and post some results in here.

Looking forward to your comments may I ask where you purchased it?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Looking forward to your comments may I ask where you purchased it?

Random find on eBay. A bit of a gamble because the seller didn’t list much in the way of measurements but I liked the lapel shape.

If you happen to have any info on the jacket or any details I’d be happy to hear its backstory.

 

[jmclay]

Random find on eBay. A bit of a gamble because the seller didn’t list much in the way of measurements but I liked the lapel shape. View attachment 2100579 View attachment 2100581 View attachment 2100583
If you happen to have any info on the jacket or any details I’d be happy to hear its backstory.

I know this piece well as I commissioned it for Oliver Brown.
Not sure how it got on eBay as it was a sample to take the private label evening wear business. It was labeled d’Avenza to identify it within their offices.
The size is EU 48 so a 38 inch coat.

it is a very nice jacket but made with very specific tech pack to reach a certain price.
We did not go forward as although much of it was mechanized for this specific project we resulted too expensive.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I know this piece well as I commissioned it for Oliver Brown.
Not sure how it got on eBay as it was a sample to take the private label evening wear business. It was labeled d’Avenza to identify it within their offices.
The size is EU 48 so a 38 inch coat.

it is a very nice jacket but made with very specific tech pack to reach a certain price.
We did not go forward as although much of it was mechanized for this specific project we resulted too expensive.

Things find their way to eBay in all sorts of ways. There’s another sample listed with peak lapels and a center vent as well for anyone interested who is a 48.

 

[AuburnM5]

I hope everyone’s 2024 has started of swimmingly! I came across this d’Avenza Forte Jacket on FB Marketplace and I am absolutely smitten with it. The seller said he bought it about 5 years ago and rarely has worn it. I was hoping someone that is familiar with their jackets could tell me about the age and fit and if 250 is a good price for it?

 

[powderbluestanza]

I know this piece well as I commissioned it for Oliver Brown.
Not sure how it got on eBay as it was a sample to take the private label evening wear business. It was labeled d’Avenza to identify it within their offices.
The size is EU 48 so a 38 inch coat.

it is a very nice jacket but made with very specific tech pack to reach a certain price.
We did not go forward as although much of it was mechanized for this specific project we resulted too expensive.

The tag is from Formens? Was this a one-off or will you produce there?

 

[jbie]

I hope everyone’s 2024 has started of swimmingly! I came across this d’Avenza Forte Jacket on FB Marketplace and I am absolutely smitten with it. The seller said he bought it about 5 years ago and rarely has worn it. I was hoping someone that is familiar with their jackets could tell me about the age and fit and if 250 is a good price for it?

View attachment 2102715 View attachment 2102717 View attachment 2102719

Late reply but that label looks very similar to the Cesare Attolini/Stile Latino inner labels. Not sure on the age, as I've seen these labels even from early 2000s, but I'm sure construction is super nice.

 

[Dear_Porf_Moriarty]

I own a D'avenza dbl. breasted and I can attest that the jacket is cut full, which I like being a 46-48R.

Hi Cassadine, may I ask for your thoughts on your d'Avenza blazer? Do you think its style is modern? And can its tailoring be considered on par with tier 1 brands?