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For the love of d'Avenza

comrade

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*Disclaimer: D'Avenza has a rich history that speaks to the business genius of Simon Ackerman - who melded British and Italian tailoring. It's a mystery why d'Avenza so badly failed to market its goods since the 1950s - it could have been Brioni or Kiton - and should have been on par with those "brands" - but it never achieved even a 10th of their market-share. Jonathan Clay could write a novella about the company. Bill White could also tell you a great deal about the final years of d'Avenza (and his own efforts to introduce it to America which failed miserably). There's a lot about the company that we'll never know because there don't seem to be good records or archives (I've looked!), and most of the head cutters are dead. The company has been in bankruptcy multiple times, and is now - essentially - dissolved (so there's no "keeper of the archives" --- the various owners over the decades have lost their proverbial shirts, so they weren't particularly concerned with keeping the heritage alive the way Zegna has, for instance). Whether Clay will do anything with the name remains to be seen (as he has allegedly bought the trademarks associated with d'Avenza).

Is this the same Simon Ackerman that sold mid- level "sharp" suits to clueless New Yorkers
in the 1950s? I had relatives who swore by the non- Ivy dreck they purchased from SA during the
height of the Ivy Style era. The stores folded in the mid 1960s:

 
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thegreatgatsby

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@monkey66

You've done quite well for yourself. I can't tell the year for sure, but it's probably early 2000s. But with a flat front pant, and a delicate pinstripe, it really doesn't matter what year it was made. It will simply never go out of style. I would spend $300 - $400 USD to get that suit "just right" tailoring-wise.

Remarkable price. Value-for-money is second to none.

Enjoy it!
 
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thegreatgatsby

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@comrade

I saw this Ackerman article in the archives as well. Thanks for sharing it. D'Avenza was begun around the same time as Brioni, in the same part of the world. What Ackerman accomplished at d'Avenza and Chester Barrie was nothing short of alchemy.

As to his sustained business knowledge (or business model), I can't speak to that.

All I can tell you is that no one really made d'Avenza work long-term...not Ackerman, not Brand Amour, not Bill White, and (in all likelihood), not Jonathan Clay.

It is interesting that some of the best minds in under-the-radar menswear have gone through the d'Avenza pipeline: including the man who currently runs (or is second in command) at the best outerwear brand in the world that few people even know (outside of Asia or Russia, anyway)...Moorer Verona. His name is Lucio Innocenti. https://it.linkedin.com/in/lucio-innocenti-609353b

Not sure if you're Russian, but Simon Ackerman was Russian, as was the most recent man who tried to bring d'Avenza to the United States, but failed: Michal Sestak.

Again, these are great menswear promoters and designers/consultants: White, Sestak, Innocenti, Clay, etc.

It's incredible to me: you have the best made RTW product in history in the hands of great minds...but it didn't scale.
 
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mangonboat

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it's gone....I realized there was some extra fabric where the jacket and pants had been taken in..its mine now
Any guesses on when this one was made? The tag is in the right inner breast pocket, just initialed. The style suggests late 1960's. Amazing condition.
 

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