First W.W.Chan suit for work – need advice (mainly on fabric quality)

[Omega]

Hi all,
I need advice for a business suit. I think I will order it from W.W. Chan – price is high, but I can pay $1500-$2000 for a suit and I like the quality. Because it is a business suit, I will want it solid navy blue or navy blue with thin black pin stripes. I try to keep my wardrobe to the minimum, therefore it will be one of three suits in rotation and used 1-2 times weekly.
Now I have questions:
1. How to select good durable fabric? I definitely want 100% wool, most likely Super 100 - 120 for durability with weight of 8-10 oz that I could use it all seasons in London. However, W.W. Chan has so many different fabrics when you come to get measured that it is really hard to decide what fabric to go for. I remember how I got confused – so many different names of fabrics, many made in the UK and Italy, but they don’t mean anything to me. Could you educate me on different manufacturers of fabrics that meet my basic requirements, i.e. Super 100-120 with weight 8-10 oz and what manufacturers offer better fabric than others, why, how much extra I should expect to pay for it and how I can recognise quality of fabric;
2. Should I go for a three-piece suit as my first W.W. Chan suit? I had advice from a few stylists in the past and they told me that three-piece suit would suit me really well, but it not over complicate the first order?
3. Trousers – I will definitely go for minimum of two trousers, from your experience is there any need for a third pair? The reason I ask is that most of the year I walk in the office without wearing the suit jacket, so I use it about 1-2 hours a day, while suit trousers get about 14 hours.
4. Last, and tricky, question – should I go with W.W. Chan or can I find similar quality somewhere else in the UK for the same price? W.W. Chan is more bespoke tailor and I don’t really have this need, however, I feel his quality is really high that I don’t know who in London can do similar quality properly fitted fully canvassed suit.
The rest I already know(-ish).
Thanks in advance.

 

[Omega]

I got two replies, both offline. This is how I interpret the answers:
1. How to select good durable fabric? - Ask tailors what would be their recommendation. European fabrics are good, but Asian fabrics improved considerably in the last 10 years. VBC is one of the most popular fabrics and for a good reason, so don't be put off by lower price.
2. Should I go for a three-piece suit as my first W.W. Chan suit? - some tailors make errors with their first suits, but W.W.Chan has really good reputation, so it should not be too big challenge for them.
3. Trousers – I will definitely go for minimum of two trousers, from your experience is there any need for a third pair? - two trousers is enough for vast majority of people, it is unlikely my lifestyle difference significantly from average.
4. Last, and tricky, question – should I go with W.W. Chan or can I find similar quality somewhere else in the UK for the same price? - W.W.Chan is reputable tailor, so yes.

 

[TheTukker]

Go with Chan and tell them what you are looking for in terms of fabric; they are pretty knowledgeable.

 

[bboysdontcryy]

There are pros and cons of using a traveling tailor in general.

 

[emptym]

I've had a few suits and sport coats made by Chan and I agree w/ all of the advice you've been given so far. A VBC worsted would be a great first suit. My first suit from them is a navy Smiths finmeresco. I love it. It's 4-ply and really durable. At 11.5 oz, it's a bit higher than your stated ideal weight, but it has an open weave that makes it relatively cool. The price of a suit w/ two pairs of pants would also be slightly higher than your ideal range. But I highly recommend the fabric.

 

[GBR]

Chan is pretty good and most first commissions turn out well.

Three piece or two is down to your choice and the type of office in which you work and indeed your position in the hierarchy. You don't offer any clues so no advice possible. Two pairs of trousers is normally sufficient but given that you only have three suits then a third may have a merit. Suggest you have two belted and one with braces (suspenders) so that it appears to be a different suit to at least some.

 

[tchoy]

1 WW Chan offer VBC fabric at decent price choose a fabric no less than 9oz for durability H Lesser and son is great as well but more expensive.

2 If your budget allows have one make, you you think it will versatile for your work environment.

3 Two trousers should be more than enough, by the time you worn out 3 pairs of trousers it's probably be time for a new suit.

4 WW Chan is great for the money but you won't get the full bespoke service when they are traveling i.e.. fittings. There may be off Row tailors in London that are similar price. From memory member add99_11 posted a thread using Graham Browne that is similar price to WW Chan, you may PM him or search the thread.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



4 WW Chan is great for the money but you won't get the full bespoke service when they are traveling i.e.. fittings. There may be off Row tailors in London that are similar price. From memory member add99_11 posted a thread using Graham Browne that is similar price to WW Chan, you may PM him or search the thread.

+1

 

[add911_11]

I will only recommend GB if OP likes British structured style . Far too many people prefer Italian soft even if they looks shut in it.

also i am totally against 9-10oz for your durable first suit. I agree with emptym on the smith fresco , excellent cloth for heavy duty. My favourite that Daniel Chan stocks will be Harrisons P&W universal. That will be a good weight for western weather.

Btw better not go to Chan if you don't live in Hk