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I saw this in FT today, I love when you travel international you get access to lots of good reading!
Suited to the times
By Simon Brooke
Published: October 11 2008 03:00 | Last updated: October 11 2008 03:00
It may not be on the syllabus at Harvard Business School but, as almost any student of fashion will tell you, the Hemline theory of economics, proposed by American economist George Taylor in the 1920s, has been proved right repeatedly. Taylor's hypothesis states that when the economy is booming women's skirts get shorter as their confidence grows and they show off their expensive stockings or, more recently, luxuriously tanned legs.
Though Taylor never tried to apply his theory to men, the economic crisis is certainly having an observable effect on what they wear to work.
"A lot of people are going for elegant, even serious, suits at the moment," says Andrea Kinkade of tailors Oliver Woo, which has a number of outlets around the south-east of England. "Features like big collars are on their way out but subtle details such as cuffs with working buttons are increasingly popular. We're seeing more waistcoats and the return of the double-breasted suit. I think people want to show that they mean business but they're not shouting about it."
Darren Mills, one of Oliver Woo's recent clients who works for Goldman Sachs, has opted for a more serious look. "I purchased a dark blue, single-breasted pinstripe," he says. "The dress code in the office at the moment ranges from chinos and shirt through to smarter two-piece suits, pretty much the same as it has been for the past few years. I wanted a well-fitted, classic suit, which I feel always looks good, regardless of economic climate."
In Ireland, which officially moved into recession recently, there are similar demands. "People are starting to dress up once more," says Dublin-based tailor and retailer Louis Copeland. "We're selling more ties again and even waistcoats. People are not complacent about their jobs so they don't want to dress down. I think there's a feeling at the moment that if you're lax in your clothes, then you're lax in your job. There is money around still but people are more careful about how they spend it - they want classics that will last. There's a lot of interest in navy blues and greys and pinstripes."
James O'Donnell who works for an Irish legal recruitment firm, says: "Ireland, and Dublin especially, has done so well over the last few years that quite a lot of men have been experimenting with the dress-down look but now there's definitely a return to smarter office clothes."
In Spain, where there have been concerns about the economy for some time, executives are opting, counter-intuitively, for a confident look. Felipe Martinez, who works in commercial property in Madrid, says: "Spanish men admire classic English tailoring but we like to add our own details. I've seen a lot more ties recently - partly because they look smart and partly, I think, because they can add a touch of personal style."
Over on Wall Street one trader says: "The dress-down look was always difficult because there were no rules, so we were glad to see the back of that. Now things are a tad confused - do you dress smart so that you look like you're ready to do serious business or does that make you look over-confident?"
New York-based tailor and menswear retailer Duncan Quinn says: "Right now the game seems to be about looking suitably serious without out-dressing the powers that be - always a tricky political conundrum."
But one bespoke client ended up rejecting a range of understated clothes and went, instead for a number of suits in colourful rope-stripes. "He just couldn't bring himself to commit to the plain greys, blues and blacks," says Quinn. After all, when share prices fall and hemlines follow, then a guy needs something to cheer himself up.
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Power dressing - Jasper Berens
Published: October 11 2008 03:00 | Last updated: October 11 2008 03:00
Jasper Berens, 38, has been the head of UK sales at JP Morgan for 10 years. He and his team of 40 deal with the sales of asset management investment products to financial advisers.
Suit by Tom James
I have a strong view on how people dress: you never get a second chance to make a first impression. The bespoke tailors Tom James come to the office to fit me, which is a fantastic use of time - I don't even need to leave my desk. My tailor Paul Adler (020 7247 5246) also acts as a consultant. He gives presentations to my team on how they should look, on trends, and also on what doesn't work in the office. The type of wool this suit is made of - a super 130 lightweight weave - feels very good to wear. You wear suits every day, so spending a little bit more is a decent investment.
www.tomjames.com
Shirt by Charles Tyrwhitt
I've been wearing Charles Tyrwhitt shirts for several years. This one is from their Superfine 180 range, their most luxurious. Getting colour combinations right is really important; I chose this gingham shirt as it suits the shade of my suit.
www.ctshirts.co.uk
Tie by T M Lewin
The Chris Tarrant grey shirt and grey tie combo is a no-no; why people do that I simply don't understand. The sales team need to let what JP Morgan has to say speak for itself, without detracting from it with an inappropriate outfit.
www.tmlewin.co.uk
Shoes by Loake
The first thing people look at is your bearing and the second thing is what you wear. People will look you up and down, and then look at your shoes, so they should be well kept-up. Loake's and Church's keep their shape and polish well.
www.loake.co.uk
Cufflinks by Links of London
I avoid comedy cufflinks; I'm not sure they send out the right message. I wear either silver or gold, but cotton cufflinks that match the colour of your tie work well too.
www.linksoflondon.com
www.oliverwoo.com
www.louiscopeland.com
www.duncanquinn.com
Suited to the times
By Simon Brooke
Published: October 11 2008 03:00 | Last updated: October 11 2008 03:00
It may not be on the syllabus at Harvard Business School but, as almost any student of fashion will tell you, the Hemline theory of economics, proposed by American economist George Taylor in the 1920s, has been proved right repeatedly. Taylor's hypothesis states that when the economy is booming women's skirts get shorter as their confidence grows and they show off their expensive stockings or, more recently, luxuriously tanned legs.
Though Taylor never tried to apply his theory to men, the economic crisis is certainly having an observable effect on what they wear to work.
"A lot of people are going for elegant, even serious, suits at the moment," says Andrea Kinkade of tailors Oliver Woo, which has a number of outlets around the south-east of England. "Features like big collars are on their way out but subtle details such as cuffs with working buttons are increasingly popular. We're seeing more waistcoats and the return of the double-breasted suit. I think people want to show that they mean business but they're not shouting about it."
Darren Mills, one of Oliver Woo's recent clients who works for Goldman Sachs, has opted for a more serious look. "I purchased a dark blue, single-breasted pinstripe," he says. "The dress code in the office at the moment ranges from chinos and shirt through to smarter two-piece suits, pretty much the same as it has been for the past few years. I wanted a well-fitted, classic suit, which I feel always looks good, regardless of economic climate."
In Ireland, which officially moved into recession recently, there are similar demands. "People are starting to dress up once more," says Dublin-based tailor and retailer Louis Copeland. "We're selling more ties again and even waistcoats. People are not complacent about their jobs so they don't want to dress down. I think there's a feeling at the moment that if you're lax in your clothes, then you're lax in your job. There is money around still but people are more careful about how they spend it - they want classics that will last. There's a lot of interest in navy blues and greys and pinstripes."
James O'Donnell who works for an Irish legal recruitment firm, says: "Ireland, and Dublin especially, has done so well over the last few years that quite a lot of men have been experimenting with the dress-down look but now there's definitely a return to smarter office clothes."
In Spain, where there have been concerns about the economy for some time, executives are opting, counter-intuitively, for a confident look. Felipe Martinez, who works in commercial property in Madrid, says: "Spanish men admire classic English tailoring but we like to add our own details. I've seen a lot more ties recently - partly because they look smart and partly, I think, because they can add a touch of personal style."
Over on Wall Street one trader says: "The dress-down look was always difficult because there were no rules, so we were glad to see the back of that. Now things are a tad confused - do you dress smart so that you look like you're ready to do serious business or does that make you look over-confident?"
New York-based tailor and menswear retailer Duncan Quinn says: "Right now the game seems to be about looking suitably serious without out-dressing the powers that be - always a tricky political conundrum."
But one bespoke client ended up rejecting a range of understated clothes and went, instead for a number of suits in colourful rope-stripes. "He just couldn't bring himself to commit to the plain greys, blues and blacks," says Quinn. After all, when share prices fall and hemlines follow, then a guy needs something to cheer himself up.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Power dressing - Jasper Berens
Published: October 11 2008 03:00 | Last updated: October 11 2008 03:00
Jasper Berens, 38, has been the head of UK sales at JP Morgan for 10 years. He and his team of 40 deal with the sales of asset management investment products to financial advisers.
Suit by Tom James
I have a strong view on how people dress: you never get a second chance to make a first impression. The bespoke tailors Tom James come to the office to fit me, which is a fantastic use of time - I don't even need to leave my desk. My tailor Paul Adler (020 7247 5246) also acts as a consultant. He gives presentations to my team on how they should look, on trends, and also on what doesn't work in the office. The type of wool this suit is made of - a super 130 lightweight weave - feels very good to wear. You wear suits every day, so spending a little bit more is a decent investment.
www.tomjames.com
Shirt by Charles Tyrwhitt
I've been wearing Charles Tyrwhitt shirts for several years. This one is from their Superfine 180 range, their most luxurious. Getting colour combinations right is really important; I chose this gingham shirt as it suits the shade of my suit.
www.ctshirts.co.uk
Tie by T M Lewin
The Chris Tarrant grey shirt and grey tie combo is a no-no; why people do that I simply don't understand. The sales team need to let what JP Morgan has to say speak for itself, without detracting from it with an inappropriate outfit.
www.tmlewin.co.uk
Shoes by Loake
The first thing people look at is your bearing and the second thing is what you wear. People will look you up and down, and then look at your shoes, so they should be well kept-up. Loake's and Church's keep their shape and polish well.
www.loake.co.uk
Cufflinks by Links of London
I avoid comedy cufflinks; I'm not sure they send out the right message. I wear either silver or gold, but cotton cufflinks that match the colour of your tie work well too.
www.linksoflondon.com
www.oliverwoo.com
www.louiscopeland.com
www.duncanquinn.com
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