Eidos Napoli

[NickPollica]

Got the field jacket from Saks Off Fifth.
As expected, this is the faux-donegal fabric from last year.
Awesome jacket. Unlined sleeves is a… questionable design choice.
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So the original development of this style was done with the sleeves lined. It was produced at Michelangelo and that was the best version. When they went under, production was moved to another facility in Naples and the pattern was altered dramatically. A big part of my job was designing around this facility’s internal proclivities and limitations to get a visual effect that was close to what I intended. For whatever reason, most of their garments had right angle level square shoulders. We went over changing the internal construction endlessly but inevitably it became easier to remove the sleeve lining as the way they were finishing it lined contributed to the squareness. This is another reason why you’ll see lots of raglan outerwear towards the end of my tenure there. I was avoiding a square set in sleeve.

Also, calling this fabric faux donegal is misleading as Donegal fabric has a rougher face with actual 3 dimensional flecks of yarn running throughout. This fabric is a much finer finish nailhead made from a tonal melange yarn.

 

[NickPollica]

also stumbled on this shirt from the Rome collection (SS14!) randomly online. the fabric is so cool and i've wanted it forever. antonio showed it in the lookbook as a lupo (which would be sweet). but anyway, i got it for a steal and it's great. looks great with white denim sleeves rolled up unbuttoned to my navel (just joking i'm pasty).

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This shirt was part of the CHCM buy. I think there are only 6 in the world. Christian Kimber has/had one that he ended up cutting the collar off of. I’m sure he would entertain offers.

 

[JR Magat]

Was looking forward to trying out this season's knit merino turtleneck from the Bloomingdale's sale (plus extra sale code), but not too surprising, my order got canceled bc it was 'out of stock'. The size still shows up as a drop-down option too smh

 

[mossrockss]

So the original development of this style was done with the sleeves lined. It was produced at Michelangelo and that was the best version. When they went under, production was moved to another facility in Naples and the pattern was altered dramatically. A big part of my job was designing around this facility’s internal proclivities and limitations to get a visual effect that was close to what I intended. For whatever reason, most of their garments had right angle level square shoulders. We went over changing the internal construction endlessly but inevitably it became easier to remove the sleeve lining as the way they were finishing it lined contributed to the squareness. This is another reason why you’ll see lots of raglan outerwear towards the end of my tenure there. I was avoiding a square set in sleeve.

Also, calling this fabric faux donegal is misleading as Donegal fabric has a rougher face with actual 3 dimensional flecks of yarn running throughout. This fabric is a much finer finish nailhead made from a tonal melange yarn.

Thanks for the info! Yeah I'm terrible at knowing correct fabric terminology. Alls I knows is—it's beautiful. Good to know about the sleeves, too. It's not so annoying as to make it unwearable, it's just less than ideal.

This shirt was part of the CHCM buy. I think there are only 6 in the world. Christian Kimber has/had one that he ended up cutting the collar off of. I’m sure he would entertain offers.

Wow I knew it's rare (one of the Lupo versions sold for probably more than it was listed at retail on Luxeswap a few months ago lol), but that's crazy. It's even my size, 41, which is crazy awesome. That striped Ischia shirt I snagged a couple months ago in that crispaire cotton is a size or two big but wearable open-collar.

BTW when's your Eidos transition officially finished? I think everybody appreciates you still being on here answering questions as we've got one more season to go of Ciongoli love, but I also assume at a certain point either this thread's affiliate status will cease if Isaia stops paying the bill, or one of the 20+ staffers at Eidos will take over to answer our questions.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

This shirt was part of the CHCM buy. I think there are only 6 in the world. Christian Kimber has/had one that he ended up cutting the collar off of. I’m sure he would entertain offers.

I own one of them. Sadly, it was borderline too small when I bought it, and I added enough muscle to make it definitely too small. Anyone in the market for a size 39?

 

[clee1982]

Thanks for the info! Yeah I'm terrible at knowing correct fabric terminology. Alls I knows is—it's beautiful. Good to know about the sleeves, too. It's not so annoying as to make it unwearable, it's just less than ideal.



Wow I knew it's rare (one of the Lupo versions sold for probably more than it was listed at retail on Luxeswap a few months ago lol), but that's crazy. It's even my size, 41, which is crazy awesome. That striped Ischia shirt I snagged a couple months ago in that crispaire cotton is a size or two big but wearable open-collar.

BTW when's your Eidos transition officially finished? I think everybody appreciates you still being on here answering questions as we've got one more season to go of Ciongoli love, but I also assume at a certain point either this thread's affiliate status will cease if Isaia stops paying the bill, or one of the 20+ staffers at Eidos will take over to answer our questions.

I don’t think this is affiliated thread

 

[mossrockss]

I don’t think this is affiliated thread

ah i don't see it listed anymore as one. it was for a few months.

 

[Easily Amused]

I own one of them. Sadly, it was borderline too small when I bought it, and I added enough muscle to make it definitely too small. Anyone in the market for a size 39?

I’m interested, will PM you ASAP

 

[Goodman]

The natural indigo wool parka.

 

[MTLinStyle]

Got the field jacket from Saks Off Fifth.
As expected, this is the faux-donegal fabric from last year.
Awesome jacket. Unlined sleeves is a… questionable design choice.
View attachment 893955 View attachment 893956

Looks incredible. IS the nailhead pattern more navy or more grey/brown? Sax 5th image and style are terrible and don't do justice to Antonio's design genius. I urgently need to write Santa a letter to get one added to xmas list.

So the original development of this style was done with the sleeves lined. It was produced at Michelangelo and that was the best version. When they went under, production was moved to another facility in Naples and the pattern was altered dramatically. A big part of my job was designing around this facility’s internal proclivities and limitations to get a visual effect that was close to what I intended. For whatever reason, most of their garments had right angle level square shoulders. We went over changing the internal construction endlessly but inevitably it became easier to remove the sleeve lining as the way they were finishing it lined contributed to the squareness. This is another reason why you’ll see lots of raglan outerwear towards the end of my tenure there. I was avoiding a square set in sleeve.

Also, calling this fabric faux donegal is misleading as Donegal fabric has a rougher face with actual 3 dimensional flecks of yarn running throughout. This fabric is a much finer finish nailhead made from a tonal melange yarn.

I really appreciate this detailed insight and explanation of the creative process. Interesting to learn how iterative process (from design to production) is in order to achieve a perfection in the final product.

 

[mossrockss]

Looks incredible. IS the nailhead pattern more navy or more grey/brown? Sax 5th image and style are terrible and don't do justice to Antonio's design genius. I urgently need to write Santa a letter to get one added to xmas list.

100% navy

 

[NickPollica]

BTW when's your Eidos transition officially finished? I think everybody appreciates you still being on here answering questions as we've got one more season to go of Ciongoli love, but I also assume at a certain point either this thread's affiliate status will cease if Isaia stops paying the bill, or one of the 20+ staffers at Eidos will take over to answer our questions.

Haha. It is finished and this is no longer an affiliate thread. I still answer questions here for a couple reasons. First, I appreciate the support this community has given the brand (and me personally) and I believe that this should be returned if possible. Since I am the only one who knows the answers to your questions at the moment, I feel its my responsibility to continue to address them. Second, I love and really believe in my last few collections and am happy to share information about them to people that I think will appreciate it. With this in mind, I will continue to lurk through the spring season and then move on once Simon's product and vision fully transitions in.

 

[stl-metropolis]

Haha. It is finished and this is no longer an affiliate thread. I still answer questions here for a couple reasons. First, I appreciate the support this community has given the brand (and me personally) and I believe that this should be returned if possible. Since I am the only one who knows the answers to your questions at the moment, I feel its my responsibility to continue to address them. Second, I love and really believe in my last few collections and am happy to share information about them to people that I think will appreciate it. With this in mind, I will continue to lurk through the spring season and then move on once Simon's product and vision fully transitions in.

This!

 

[John L]

Haha. It is finished and this is no longer an affiliate thread. I still answer questions here for a couple reasons. First, I appreciate the support this community has given the brand (and me personally) and I believe that this should be returned if possible. Since I am the only one who knows the answers to your questions at the moment, I feel its my responsibility to continue to address them. Second, I love and really believe in my last few collections and am happy to share information about them to people that I think will appreciate it. With this in mind, I will continue to lurk through the spring season and then move on once Simon's product and vision fully transitions in.

As someone who can appreciate the occasional knit, I hope that your (presumed) Roller Rabbit thread is able to get traction.

KEEP YA BOIS IN THE LOOP!

 

[MTLinStyle]

Is the Hine Cashmere Sweater from the In Esilio Collection 4 ply or 2 ply?