Dress Shirt Material: Is There a Hard-And-Fast Rule

[Man of Letters]

I'm predisposed to plain old 100% cotton and occasionally linen. I own one silk shirt as well. However, I'm interested learning more about merits of Poplin, Broadcloth, and the various cotton blends.

Is a particular material seen as more or less stylish, modern, classic, etc? Is there a material that should be avoided at all costs (e.g. Polyester)?

Any insights would be appreciated.

 

[Gibonius]

A good article:
http://www.alexander-west.com/styleguide/?p=97

Keep in mind that these are all weaves of fabric, and could apply to any material or blend.

 

[Man of Letters]

Thanks Gibonius. What's your personal opinion on the matter?

 

[MyOtherLife]

A few basics....Lighter weight for summer (poplin, broadcloth, linen, etc) Heavier weight for winter (oxford cloth, etc)Avoid cotton/poly blends. Wherever possible avoid synthetics.
Welcome to Styleforum.

 

[dan138zig]



A few basics....Lighter weight for summer (poplin, broadcloth, linen, etc) Heavier weight for winter (oxford cloth, etc)Avoid cotton/poly blends. Wherever possible avoid synthetics.
Welcome to Styleforum.

So oxford is ok for a dress shirt? Any sample pics? Because I always avoid oxford as it seems casual.

 

[juvefan]

there is royal oxford which is great for dress shirts

 

[cruxisfalcon]

I just avoid polyester like the plague. Shiny silk looks cheesy to me too.

 

[Gibonius]



Thanks Gibonius. What's your personal opinion on the matter?

I'm not an expert but: poplins are fine but boring. I really like twills, nice feel and a bit of visual interest. Herringbones can be either very subtle or somewhat outrageous and harder to apply, depending on the scale. I have an end-on-end that's one of my favorite blue shirts, need to expand on that fabric in the future. I haven't done much with pinpoints, they just seem bland. Oxfords are great in a button-down context, interesting fabric and it holds up great.

 

[Man of Letters]

Thank Mr. Lint. I appreciate your opinion as well Gibonius.

So what about front pockets on dress shirts: yea or nay? Does it even matter?

 

[MyOtherLife]



So oxford is ok for a dress shirt? Any sample pics? Because I always avoid oxford as it seems casual.

As this thread runs the risk of exploding into the fine details of mens shirts and has been well covered in other threads, I preferred to add only a few basics, as was requested by the OP.
To clarify, my post listed some basics pertaining to fabric weight and temperature. Oxford cloth, in my own usage, is relegated to button-down collars. Offhand I don't recollect if I have a spread collared OC and it would not be my first choice at all for spreads. I wear it casual. For spread collars I would prefer Egyptian or Sea Island cottons, and again, only for cooler or cold weather.
A 2 ply 80's would be a good meduim weight that would cater to most basic needs if I am not mistaken. Single ply 120's would be on the lower end or perhaps for a beginner.

 

[MyOtherLife]



Thank Mr. Lint. I appreciate your opinion as well Gibonius.

So what about front pockets on dress shirts: yea or nay? Does it even matter?

I can only speak for my own usage and preferences. I'll wear a single pocket at work and perhaps no pocket for evenings out. Double pocket, for me, would be strictly casual. Here's another tip for a beginner...observe the back of a shirt. you may see a single pleat in the middle from the neck, downward. this is a casual shirt. Casual shirts may also have a button on the back of the collar in the middle. They may also have a cloth hoop under the collar on the outside of the shirt. A dress shirt, typically, has 2 pleats on the back, running over each of the shoulder blades. There are exceptions also that some slim-fit shirts have no pleats at all. As far as 'does it matter', well to a purist it will and to the layman it probably won't. Whatever is making you happy and keeping you out of trouble is the answer.

 

[bjornb17]



Thank Mr. Lint. I appreciate your opinion as well Gibonius.

So what about front pockets on dress shirts: yea or nay? Does it even matter?

That is up to personal preference, but I do not like them and never have pockets on my dress shirts