Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[PACostag]

214 days and counting for my most recent order. Seems like their new stockist relations are getting ahead in line to our custom orders

 

[wordfool]

Is the 55 last the same as the semi dress last? I have a pair of bounty hunters from 2016 on the semi dress last, and I recently bought another new pair delivered earlier this year on the 55 last. I'm having a much harder time with the break-in on the arches with this new pair though. The arches feel noticeably higher on the 55 last pair. The sizing is also a little different, with the 55 last feeling slightly longer than my 2016 bounty hunters in the same size.

My understanding is that the 55 is the default SD last, and it certainly seems the same between my BH and SD, but I do think there's a non-trivial amount of pair-to-pair difference, perhaps due to the hands that made them, etc., which seems weird because they're all built on similar lasts.

Can confirm that every pair is different. I have multiple pairs of both BHs and SDs, all built on the 55 last in the same size and all with celastic toes and standard-height heels, and all feel slightly different when I wear them, whether in terms of length, width, arch, lace gap etc. It's something I just put down to the hand-built aspect of the boots -- different people building them, different leather attributes, different day of the week, different degree of hangover etc.. As they break in some of those differences become less evident either through the boot molding to my foot or my feet just getting used to them.

In that respect boots are not unlike some other heritage clothing -- selvedge jeans of the same size that have up to an 0.5" difference in the waist, for example, or the Iron Heart suede jacket I recently bought that was 0.5" longer than the other two of the same size in the store (I asked to measure them knowing there might be some difference).

 

[Luscombe]

This leather, combined with the Stitchdown construction, ideally on a soft toe, would make for a hell of a Stevens boot makeup.

Viberg-esque would I dare say....

I bought these Stevens last November and they arrived in April. Standard build with Maryam natural horse butt with structured toe and commando soles. I have been struggling with getting them broken in for the last 7 months. They are starting to feel real comfy if I don't tighten the top rows too much.
The first photo shows the new boots, the other two photos show how they look after 7 months of not a lot of wear. I have not applied any products to them.

I think they are developing a nice patina. That said the leather is still very stiff but getting softer.
An unstructured toe would have created a very slim profile. These are nice the way they are now.

I like the way they fit and look and get lots of compliments.

 

[climbinglife]

My first pair was only a little over $400 and was not a sale. LOL

$415 in 2009 for me

 

[Phalanx]

@Luscombe

Great looking boots; that natural CXL is aging beautifully.

I actually have a couple of questions about the Stevens boots for you guys.
1) How much lighter are they than bounty hunters and MPs?
2) Is there a definitive answer about what last they're built on? I think it's supposed to be the MP last but I've definitely read that people found they fit differently.

Cheers

 

[johng70]

@Luscombe

2) Is there a definitive answer about what last they're built on? I think it's supposed to be the MP last but I've definitely read that people found they fit differently.

Cheers

According to the White's site, the Stevens boot is built on their 5050 last - a different last than the MP last

 

[Widening Gyre]

@Luscombe

Great looking boots; that natural CXL is aging beautifully.

I actually have a couple of questions about the Stevens boots for you guys.
1) How much lighter are they than bounty hunters and MPs?
2) Is there a definitive answer about what last they're built on? I think it's supposed to be the MP last but I've definitely read that people found they fit differently.

Cheers

My Stevens are quite a bit lighter than my MP, though not light by any means. They’re lined Maryam horsehides. Kyle adviced me not to have them lined, but I thought I’d ignored that, until now. I just checked, and I did ask for them to be unlined. Oh well, I didn’t notice until now, so…

And they’re definitely 5050.

 

[Abe_Room]

My black BHs got a squeak in the right boot. I don't care anymore. I quack with pride now.
But they are breaking in real nicely and my foots almost healed with the new lacing method. All around, I still want some cowboy boots for the quick trip (chisos are looking mighty fine), but I can wait.

 

[chicagoan2016]

My black BHs got a squeak in the right boot. I don't care anymore. I quack with pride now.
But they are breaking in real nicely and my foots almost healed with the new lacing method. All around, I still want some cowboy boots for the quick trip (chisos are looking mighty fine), but I can wait.

I have a pair of standard packers in double midsoles. They really broke in after I walked in them for hours in state fair !!!

 

[Abe_Room]

I have a pair of standard packers in double midsoles. They really broke in after I walked in them for hours in state fair !!!

Yeah the black bhs are also double midsole (commando sole, I guess that comes standard with double).
So much stiffer than the singles, but I'm glad it's that way.
Though every time I work through a phase of the break in, a different part starts to hurt, now it's the left inner ankle rubbing on a spot.
Just gonna change around how I wear it, nbd.

 

[chicagoan2016]

Yeah the black bhs are also double midsole (commando sole, I guess that comes standard with double).
So much stiffer than the singles, but I'm glad it's that way.
Though every time I work through a phase of the break in, a different part starts to hurt, now it's the left inner ankle rubbing on a spot.
Just gonna change around how I wear it, nbd.

What socks do you wear?
I recommend darn tough with heavy cushion.

 

[Abe_Room]

What socks do you wear?
I recommend darn tough with heavy cushion.

I hear good things about those, none available where I live though. I have lastings whi merino wool socks.

 

[chicagoan2016]

I hear good things about those, none available where I live though. I have lastings whi merino wool socks.

I 'suffered' for months before I bought the heaviest cushion socks from Darn tough.
Send them an email and ask if they would ship to UK.

 

[DG123]

I hear good things about those, none available where I live though. I have lastings whi merino wool socks.

Red Wing steel toe socks are excellent.

 

[Rymanocerous]

ALL -

can anyone compare sizing on the 55 last vs. Viberg's 2030?

I'm a 12.5 Brannock & wear a 12 in the 55 last and can occasionally get away with an 11.5 with thin socks. What size would you recommend with Viberg's 2030?
thanks in advance

Only go a half down on the 2030. You are going to want a 12.