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tocohillsguy

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I would talk to Kyle at Bakers or someone at Whites and see if you can get an extra patch of leather sown on the area your shifter makes contact with. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen this done on a pair of Wesco’s before.
If that’s not an option, then I would think a rough out leather would hold up better than one of the smooth leather.
Also, I would expect horsehide to holdup better.
 

Neognosis

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I'm not familiar with engineer boots, but why not use a toe cap that can be replaced when the leather is worn?

A few reasons. First, it's butt ugly. Second, I don't contact the shifter in the same place most people do... My foot hits the shifter over my instep, and not just rear of the toes, like most riders, and the location of the shift pad, typically. I had a pair of black boots years ago that I wore a hole through, and then had a shift pad sewn on, but the boots were of low quality and the whole boot collapsed not long after that. If I start wearing a hole in the pair I plan to buy, THEN I"ll have a shift pad sewn in right where the wear is happening....

I've got samples of rough out and a few other leathers on the way. I'm excited.I haven't bought a pair of whites in years.
 

Neognosis

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Also, I would expect horsehide to holdup better.


Me too. But white's doesn't make a horsehide engineer boot, and I was told it is because they don't have horsehide strips large enough to make up the shaft of an engineer boot.
 

paulraphael

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Maybe someone can sew a nice leather cover for your shift lever. Or you could cover it with leather or rubber handlebar tape?
 

Legal Eagles

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Horsehide wouldn't outlast Oiltan

Roughout might
1596884394121.png
 

Legal Eagles

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Come at me bro ?
One thing I have learned being an attorney is that there are very few absolutes in the world... mostly the world is full of shades of grey, open to interpretation and opinion (and thus the standard attorney answer, "It depends..." and the associated hourly billing!).

Therefore when anyone makes an absolute statement such as:

Horsehide wouldn't outlast Oiltan

I anticipate, nay expect, vigorous debate, and that the proponent of the statement has empirical data to support their position... just assuming you were only referring to abrasion resistance, there are numerous ways to test it, the standard I suppose being SATRA...


If we assume for the sake of argument that horsehide is more abrasion resistant than cowhide, are we then talking about surface abrasion only, or abrasion through the entire thickness of the hide? If for the sake of argument we further stipulate that oil tan is 150% thicker than horsehide - however should it turn out horsehide has twice the abrasion resistance - which can be expected to outlast?

This should be good for at least a page of debate before the material engineers chime in and it takes on a life of its own... hence my popcorn picture...

I will never abrade any of my boots, so I do not have a dog in the fight, I just like to read the comments...

So, which is more abrasion resistant and will last the longest... oil tan or horsehide... 3...2...1...GO!
 

paulraphael

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My guess is that if your job involves swinging a tsledge hammer, abrasion resistance means how long you can wear the boot before there’s a hole that your toe will poke out of. For most people here, it means how much abuse it can take before looking ratty.

These are indeed not the same.For definition #2, we’re probably stuck with people’s subjective experience.
 

paulraphael

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Would there be a problem with resolene sticking if the edges had been treated with oil or Obenaufs?
 

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