Custom Wedding Tux Advice

[RBurman6288]

Hey there!

A couple quick questions as I consider ordering a trad/prep/ivy-styled custom 3-piece wedding tux from Enzo Custom for my upcoming wedding:

1) Best Lapels for big guys?

I've read quite a few articles online, and they seem split between shawl and peak. The peak folks suggest it broadens the shoulders, while the shawl squad thinks it looks slimming.

Me, I look like this, and I'm torn between the two.

2) (Non)matching satin in lapels and bowties.

I can't quite explain why, but a navy tux with black satin lapels just feels... off. I'm aiming for something more like this Ryan Gosling look instead.

The good news: Enzo can substitute a navy satin on the lapels, pants, etc.

The bad news: There's no matching navy bowtie.

So, should I try to find a navy bowtie, knowing it'll never quite match? Or should I go with Enzo's black bowtie instead (which won't match color, but'll at least match luster?)

Again, I'm very torn and open to suggestion -- especially from some of the grandfathers of this forum!

Thanks in advance for any feedback, advice, and even trolling!

 

[paxonus]

Try posting in the State of Black Tie thread under Classic Menswear. Whatever you decide, do not do a different color lapel. You will look like a teenager going to prom.

 

[breakaway01]

Whatever you decide, do not do a different color lapel. You will look like a teenager going to prom.

This is not true for a dinner jacket. Midnight blue jacket with black lapel facings is completely acceptable and certainly more common than matching blue facings. Neither is incorrect. Anyhow, personally I’d go with black tie regardless of the facing color. A blue tie that does not quite match the facings will look off. I’d also be a bit concerned that a matching blue tie would make the outfit look...too blue all around.

 

[paxonus]

This is not true for a dinner jacket. Midnight blue jacket with black lapel facings is completely acceptable and certainly more common than matching blue facings. Neither is incorrect. Anyhow, personally I’d go with black tie regardless of the facing color. A blue tie that does not quite match the facings will look off. I’d also be a bit concerned that a matching blue tie would make the outfit look...too blue all around.

The OP is asking about a tuxedo, so I assume the trousers will be the same color as the jacket. A contrasting color lapel on a tuxedo jacket is not acceptable. A dinner jacket, worn with black trousers, is entirely different.

 

[breakaway01]

The OP is asking about a tuxedo, so I assume the trousers will be the same color as the jacket. A contrasting color lapel on a tuxedo jacket is not acceptable. A dinner jacket, worn with black trousers, is entirely different.

The use of the term "dinner jacket" could mean with matching trousers (="tuxedo") or with non-matching trousers. But if you want to be specific regarding wearing a DJ with matching trousers, this is still not true. Specifically for a navy tuxedo, black facings are entirely acceptable and perhaps even preferred. Would go for midnight navy, not a lighter navy.
Not even sure why I need to cite sources to back me up on this, but you seem to be insistent:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/question-on-midnight-blue-tux.289809/

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/classic/tuxedo-dinner-suit/
"With a midnight-blue dinner suit, facings are typically black."

 

[paxonus]

The use of the term "dinner jacket" could mean with matching trousers (="tuxedo") or with non-matching trousers. But if you want to be specific regarding wearing a DJ with matching trousers, this is still not true. Specifically for a navy tuxedo, black facings are entirely acceptable and perhaps even preferred. Would go for midnight navy, not a lighter navy.
Not even sure why I need to cite sources to back me up on this, but you seem to be insistent:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/question-on-midnight-blue-tux.289809/

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/tuxedo-black-tie-guide/classic/tuxedo-dinner-suit/
"With a midnight-blue dinner suit, facings are typically black."

Thanks for that. I suppose I was focussing more on the photo of Gosling and the colors. He is definitely not wearing midnight blue and the black lapel with his jacket looks very bad to me. On a true midnight blue, black lapels would be nearly indistinguishable in color.

 

[breakaway01]

got it. I didn't click through to the linked photo. If the OP really wants a "trad/prep/ivy-styled" look I would definitely stay away from lighter navy. Black facings stand out too much against lighter navy for my taste, but I think matching blue facings and tie would actually look worse. I would highly recommend midnight navy if you want a traditional look.

OP, if you do really want to go with a light navy as in Ryan Gosling's picture, I would vote for shawl lapel (slightly less formal than peak, which goes along with a light navy being less formal than midnight navy or black). I would still go for black facings personally, not because I think it looks great but because I think matching facings would look worse.

 

[RBurman6288]

Thanks for input here!

Definitely going for midnight navy blue, not lighter blue as in the picture.

Here's the specific suit in question:

 

[breakaway01]

That color looks more appropriate.

I'd be careful about the cut of the tuxedo as shown. The jacket looks very short. Would prefer that the pockets not be slanted. The waistcoat is cut a little high for my taste. Ideally just a little of the top should be visible with the jacket buttoned. It may be the angle of the photo, but I am not a fan of how the tips of the peak lapels seem to extend above the shoulder line.

 

[Stuart Midgley]

Brits often use 'grosgrain' on their lapels rather than satin. I think it looks better on larger men myself (with peak lapels - shawl would always be satin I would think). It's ribbed but still made from silk with an appropriate amount of shimmer/sparkle).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grosgrain