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Carmina's Alcudia Last - How Does It Fit?

luk-cha

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Originally Posted by aj_del
Doesnt the Dover have a different kind of toe stitching. It seems different from the Carmina which seems similar to the AS style.

EG
cm2.jpg


JL
bcham2.jpg


AS
Charlton1.jpg



the EG and JL are hand sown the AS look machined sown
 

NORE

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Got the shoes today (wasn't home yesterday to accept delivery) which is awesome taking into consideration my impatience and the fact I just placed the order days ago. The Paypal checkout is also a plus as I used my wife's card
uhoh.gif
Thank you Mark!

Review:

As yfyf has alluded to the shape of the Alcudia last is very much like the EG 82. Sizing seems to be very, very similar as I take a 12E on the EG 82 and the 12 fit good on the Alcudia (apron toe derby). The apron appears to be hand sewn as on the EG equivalent.

The finish is very nice as is the sole which is very similar to the finish on the EG sole (Carmina does have more brads). The sole treatment is slightly different on the Simpsom (brown semi brogue) in a purely decorative way.

Call me backward, but I judge a shoe mainly on the sole and not the upper. These passed with flying colors.

The Simpsom last looks very similar to C&J's 337 last (not sure about EG, maybe 606 or 89?) and fits pretty much the same. I also took a 12 in these and take a 12E on the 337. One [perceptible] negative about the finish on this one is that the sewing machine foot tracks are visible as with AS Premier line. There were no perceptible foot track marks on my EG Malverns. Not sure if they just need to adjust the machine's foot or if this is characteristic of the leather, but in any case it's a fine shoe. The polishing wasn't 100% right about the toecap seam (slight darkness) but I suspect that will wane with subsequent polishings.

And the price for what you get just can not be beat. 2 pairs for the price of 1 EG? I'm keeping them both. Pics to come later when I feel like it.

Thanks yfyf & The Amoury team!
 

Eustace Tilley

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^ Thanks for the review NORE.
 

Raoul Duke

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Hmmm...I was thinking C&J handgrade for my next purchase, however, I may have to go with Carmina. Can anyone make a direct comparison on the quality? Prices are pretty similar.
 

NORE

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Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
^ Thanks for the review NORE.
No prob.
Originally Posted by Raoul Duke
Hmmm...I was thinking C&J handgrade for my next purchase, however, I may have to go with Carmina. Can anyone make a direct comparison on the quality? Prices are pretty similar.
Which shoe were you thinking of getting from both ranges?
 

Raoul Duke

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I was thinking of the Audley or Belgrave from C&J or the Brown Punched Captoe on the Simpson last from Carmina.
 

NORE

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I've owned the Belgrave (Polo incarnation) and can say they are very similar. The (Benton) Belgrave I had was very light colored leather which I hear masks creasing & such. These are a very nice alternative inasmuch as they are semi brogues and not just punch caps. The punch cap I own now is the EG Midfort on the 82. Sublime.
 

gdl203

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Looks like they use aniline leather and not crust, is that correct?
 

NORE

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Not too sure about what the differences are between aniline & crust but I will say I believe these are veg tanned, so aniline.

Edit: a quick search revealed that crust leather is basically colored via hand polishing (and thus will lend better depth of color and range) while aniline is basically dyed leather. If I had to call it from first glance, I would say the lighter colored shoe was crust and the dark brown aniline. Of course, the lighter colored shoe could have underwent a hand polishing to antique certain areas so again, I am unsure.

I am sure that these are solid shoes.
 

gdl203

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Originally Posted by NORE
Not too sure about what the differences are between aniline & crust but I will say I believe these are veg tanned, so aniline.

Edit: a quick search revealed that crust leather is basically colored via hand polishing (and thus will lend better depth of color and range) while aniline is basically dyed leather. If I had to call it from first glance, I would say the lighter colored shoe was crust and the dark brown aniline. Of course, the lighter colored shoe could have underwent a hand polishing to antique certain areas so again, I am unsure.

I am sure that these are solid shoes.


Is the leather similar to your Edward Green (crust leather)? Does it look a little bit oily (for lack of a better word) leaving a clear mark if you scratch it with your fingernail ... or does it look like a more dry finish where the color wouldn't move if you scuffed it (like Vass's aniline leather)?
 

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