Building a shoe wardrobe from scratch

[Sanddog]

I know there have been a couple of other threads on this, but my situation is a little different, so I’m here looking for advice from the Forvm.

I have hard to fit feet (full size and width differential), and thanks to SF, I now have sources for shoes that will be MTO and actually fit (Ron Rider / Martegani and Cliff Roberts). This means I’m going to be chucking my current shoe wardrobe and building a new one from scratch.

What I’d like to develop is a core of 4-6 pairs of shoes (or 3, or 8, if that’s the right number) in a range of styles and colors that will be versatile enough, collectively, to cover all the combinations in my clothing wardrobe – from suits to button-up shirts and jeans, and points in between. (I have the sneakers taken care of already.)

Couple of initial thoughts:
-I travel for work occasionally, and I’d like to have a pair of shoes (or 2!) that would be versatile enough to be workable with both suits and jeans if I only want to bring the one pair.
-I’ve decided I like ankle boots – I have a pair of brown chukkas that look good (but unfortunately do not fit). Would like to have at least 1 pair, and maybe two, in the core wardrobe.
-I’ve never worn loafers because they always slapped with every step, like flip-flops. Now that I can get a pair that fits, should I?
-Should I get a pair or two in cordovan? Living in NYC, I walk to work and social events in wet and dirty conditions now and again.
-I like the pictures I’ve seen of wholecuts.

Recommendations of shoes – styles, colors, leather – either the full wardrobe, or individual components thereof, and the rationale behind them would be greatly appreciated. If you have particular models you want to recommend, I’ll gladly take those as well.

Thanks...

Matt

 

[niidawg3]

Basics: Allen Edmonds as a starter would be reasonably priced. You could also look into Aldens, Martegnani's, Magnanni's, Church's or Loakes ... all reasonably priced.
1. Black Captoes
2. Brown Captoes

Luxury: Vass, Sutors, Corthay's, Lobb's, BB Peals etc
3. Brown Brogues/Wingtips
4. Brown suede brogues/wingtips
5. Brown Chelseas/Dress boots
6. Leather/Suede Drivers
7. Black Brogues/Wingtips
8. Brown Monks/Double Monks
9. Spectators
10. Brown Penny Loafers or Tassle Loafers

There are tons of folks here with lots of good advice ... hopefully they contribute to this thread.

 

[ohm]

I think there are many answers to this question, but for what it's worth here is mine in order I would get them

1. brown chukkas (you apparently already have these) - they work with a suit and they work with jeans so there's your easy trip-shoe.
2. black captoe (it's the standard business shoe)
3. dark brown half brogue
4. #8 shell longwing/wingtip (goes with jeans, a bit of a stretch with suits but great with odd jackets)
5. mid-dark brown suede brogues (can go with jeans too)
6. medium brown monks (can go with jeans too)

As you can see I'm not a huge fan of loafers, but you could easily substitute or add them in anywhere in that list and it should have you covered for a range of formalities.

 

[makewayhomer]

what are your priorities? wear with suits or wear with jeans/biz casual trousers? comfort or good looks?

I am kind of going through the same process. I work in a casual office where jeans are totally fine but I usually wear decent trousers. I very rarely wear suits, basically for funerals and job interviews and such. I live in Boston, so I want something that will be ok in slush/puddle/wet surfaces. and I want something comfortable b/c hey I like comfort

so far I have:

RM Williams Chestnut Comfort Craftsman (a Chelsea boot) in Kangaroo leather. This goes with almost every single thing in my wardrobe, is very comfortable, and has a composite sole which will be fine in the winter. now, this is better with jeans/trousers than suits, but that is good with me b/c of my needs.

I like this boot so much I am going to order the exact same one in black.

I also recently ordered a Grenson Desert boot in brown. b/c of the crepe sole this is great with jeans and more casual pants, and is actually quite sleek.

so, those are 3 boots. for the summer I am going to get a brown slip on of some kind, I think, but I'm not sure yet. maybe a #8 would be best here actually.

all of these shoes are all comfortable, versatile and wear ok in bad weather. the black boot is there b/c hey sometimes you need black, but I think about 3/4 of the time some shade of brown or burgundy is called for.

 

[Sanddog]

Originally Posted by niidawg3

Basics: Allen Edmonds as a starter would be reasonably priced. You could also look into Aldens, Martegnani's, Magnanni's, Church's or Loakes ... all reasonably priced.
1. Black Captoes
2. Brown Captoes

Luxury: Vass, Sutors, Corthay's, Lobb's, BB Peals etc
3. Brown Brogues/Wingtips
4. Brown suede brogues/wingtips
5. Brown Chelseas/Dress boots
6. Leather/Suede Drivers
7. Black Brogues/Wingtips
8. Brown Monks/Double Monks
9. Spectators
10. Brown Penny Loafers or Tassle Loafers

There are tons of folks here with lots of good advice ... hopefully they contribute to this thread.

Thanks for your input -- I always like your looks when you post photos.

You're recommending a lot of brown shoes here -- any thoughts on which shades of brown I should get, and for which styles of shoe?

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by Sanddog

Thanks for your input -- I always like your looks when you post photos.

You're recommending a lot of brown shoes here -- any thoughts on which shades of brown I should get, and for which styles of shoe?

it depends on the clothes in your wardrobe. but i would assume you would want to get one of each kind of brown, so

1. tan
2. whiskey
3. dark brown
4. maybe a burgundy/cordovan

i honestly do not know a lot of the terminology used for shoes and clothes here. so again, i hope some of the pros/students of the art will chime in. but if something looks good, is well made, is well within your price range and will fit with the clothes you have, just get it.

and yes - i do believe brown shoes are more versatile than blacks. i have 2 black dress shoes and i rarely wear them ... maybe once every 2 weeks. brown on the other hand is almost a go-to shoe for any texture, fabric or color (except black of course).

 

[Sanddog]

Originally Posted by niidawg3

it depends on the clothes in your wardrobe. but i would assume you would want to get one of each kind of brown, so

1. tan
2. whiskey
3. dark brown
4. maybe a burgundy/cordovan

i honestly do not know a lot of the terminology used for shoes and clothes here. so again, i hope some of the pros/students of the art will chime in. but if something looks good, is well made, is well within your price range and will fit with the clothes you have, just get it.

and yes - i do believe brown shoes are more versatile than blacks. i have 2 black dress shoes and i rarely wear them ... maybe once every 2 weeks. brown on the other hand is almost a go-to shoe for any texture, fabric or color (except black of course).

Have a couple of charcoal grey suits -- which goes better with those: whiskey, tan, dark brown?

 

[niidawg3]

Originally Posted by Sanddog

Have a couple of charcoal grey suits -- which goes better with those: whiskey, tan, dark brown?


i would say dark brown or whiskey. tan might be a jarring contrast. there should be many ideas in the WAYWRN thread.

 

[Jacksan]

This thread caught my eye and interested me enough to make my first post, as I also happen to just be getting into acquiring quality shoes. Cole-Haan, Ecco and Bass just aren't cutting it anymore for me, except in inclement weather.

I recently tried on some AE Park Avenues, with the black inserts, which the fit felt ok but stiff. Afterwards, I was told by a SA in another store that John Lobb also had a store on the upper level.

Needless to say, I ended up getting a pair of dark brown cap toes and a pair of burgundy monk straps.

I am interested in perhaps getting a different pair of black shoes, and wanted to see if Aldens would be worth trying on, or if I'm now hooked on JL's I'll have to stick with JL from now on and suffer with infrequent acquisitions due their higher costs.

Thanks for any input!