Big Booty Pants

[kronik]

So.. I'm a black guy with a 36-37 waist and a 44 inch seat measurement.

I'm looking for decent trousers RTW.. I've been getting MTM from my tailor, he essentially orders 38 and takes the waist in. They fit well but the rise is a bit long and frankly, looks old for a 25-year-old.

Also.. I figure flat-front is pretty much out of the question for me unless I buy a 40 and then have the trousers recut.. which is pretty pointless.

Also looking for jeans that look good .. I just bought some Baggy Bjorns and RB6, both are nice with the RB6 being snug but not uncomfortably so. I've recently decided to lose about 10-15 pounds, but my arse is always going to be pretty shapely and I don't think that'll ever change.

Thanks for any assistance anyone can provide.

 

[philosophe]

Three thoughts:

Have you tried buying a fuller-cut trouser (i.e., American rather than Italian) in 36 and letting out the seat by letting out the inseam? In a good pair of pants, you can see at least 1/2" of extra fabric in each inseam just below the crotch. That fabric is for letting out the seat.

Some here use Land's End made to measure. The fabrics aren't great, but you can tinker with the fit endlessly.

Bespoke rather than MTM will solve your problem. How much are you now paying for MTM?

 

[kronik]

Originally Posted by philosophe

Three thoughts:

Have you tried buying a fuller-cut trouser (i.e., American rather than Italian) in 36 and letting out the seat by letting out the inseam? In a good pair of pants, you can see at least 1/2" of extra fabric in each inseam just below the crotch. That fabric is for letting out the seat.

Some here use Land's End made to measure. The fabrics aren't great, but you can tinker with the fit endlessly.

Bespoke rather than MTM will solve your problem. How much are you now paying for MTM?

Who would you recommend? Most of the clothes I've purchased recently have been made in Italy.. Zanella, Purple Label, Barba, Finamore, etc.. even the MTM I was doing were Gianni Manzoni. Paying 115 approx a pair for the Gianni's (including the tailoring, obviously).

I'm a fan of nice fabric, of course, as you might assume. I will consider Land's End.

Now then the question is, where to get bespoke pants in quality materials. I went to my first full on measuring/ordering yesterday at MyTailor here in DC. Ordered two shirts - I'll see how they fit then more than likely order 2 suits, a couple more shirts, and a couple pairs of pants.

 

[philosophe]

Kronik,

I'm sure there's an SF thread on DC tailors. That would give you some suggestions on where to start.

Re RTW, Zanella Benny (flat front) strike me as a little roomier than some of the pants you list. Also Trussini. I have both, and they are roomier than my Incotex.

I'm not up on the American brands, but I'd guess that Hickey, BB, and others will be on the full side. Perhaps you could pick up something at Off Fifth or NM Last Call and take the pants to your tailor for advice.

Have you checked out your local Nordstrom? If there's a decent tailor on staff, you could get an on-the-spot alterations consultation.

Hope this helps.

 

[heavyd]

Buy the larger size and have the tailor work it out... for god sakes don't switch styles to Hickey Freeman or Brooks. Those huge pleats will only make yoou look silly. Sounds like you have a good eye for clothing but just need to take an extra step on the fit - we all have our issues.

 

[stach]

Depending on your inseam measurement, they can use the extra fabric at the hem and add gussets for the crotch.

 

[whoopee]

You should always fit the seat and not the waist. The waistband can be taken in easily. As for jeans, you can try those that are generally considered "anti-fit" like 47s and some throwback cuts.

 

[coachvu]

I also have to buy larger pant sizes and have them altered to accomodate my thighs. For me, Mavi jeans have been amazing. They are stylish and seem to have a narrower waist with fuller seat and thighs. Nordstrom carries several styles, so you might start looking there.

 

[Mr. Checks]

You should consider Brooks. If you have a 37 inch waist (as I do) and a 44-inch seat you should be wearing pleats, 25 yo or not. My local Brooks has excellent alterations people. I would think that you need some fullness in the front to balance out the back.

As viewed from the side, you're

looking for this [] or even this ()


instead of this [ ))

.

 

[kronik]

I've pretty much accepted the pleats thing since I was literally, like 12 years old. I've always had the juicy booty.. can't help it.

What I was looking for, are high-quality pants for my build.. I find it's more an issue with jeans than with trousers, but some of the nicest slacks I've seen haev been flat-front only i.e. I really wanted to snatch up a pair of PL linen slacks on sale for the summer.. but I wasn't sure if I should buy the 40 and go from there or not.

 

[Englandmj7]

looking for this [] or even this ()


instead of this [ ))

He heh, very good description.....

 

[kronik]

Originally Posted by Englandmj7

He heh, very good description.....

How about < ))..

I can do that with the right motivation.

 

[coachvu]

Originally Posted by kronik

I've pretty much accepted the pleats thing since I was literally, like 12 years old. I've always had the juicy booty.. can't help it.

What I was looking for, are high-quality pants for my build.. I find it's more an issue with jeans than with trousers, but some of the nicest slacks I've seen haev been flat-front only i.e. I really wanted to snatch up a pair of PL linen slacks on sale for the summer.. but I wasn't sure if I should buy the 40 and go from there or not.

I think buying a 40 and altering them would be too much. If you can, try on a pair of 38s first. I found a pair of Polo cords in a 38 that are flat front, and they had plenty of room after alterations.

 

[philosophe]

Sz 40 will be hard. Taking in more than 2&quot; in the waist is tricky. A good tailor can use the darts above the back pockets to absorb some of the extra fabric, then adjust the waistband (this avoids making the back of the pants lower than the front of the pants). If you can let out the seat in a pair of 38's, then adjust the waist, the overall look and fit will probably be better. That still leaves your original issue re the rise, but maybe it will work out.

 

[Dapper Dandy]

Although I think it's more expensive, I would advise buying your waist size and having the seat let out (assuming there's enough cloth to be let out). I find that buying several sizes bigger in the waist gives me much more rise than I want, and I end up with pants that must be pulled up Urkel-high or pants with a crotch near my knees, which, sadly, is neither necessary nor attractive. Of course, you must also make sure the pants aren't too tight in the thighs. That's why I can never purchase RLPL- they're Italian style means I'd have to size up a good 6 inches in the waist to have them fit my thighs.