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Best Suit/Sport Coat ORT Brands for Athletic Fit

JimmyTre

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2015
Messages
113
Reaction score
30
Hello Gentlemen

I've recently switched to a job where I need to wear sports coast and the occasional suit a couple of times a week and I'm having fit challenges. I have a fairly muscular chest and back and most of today's OTR coats (even some labeled "classic" rather than "slim" or "tailored") then to be cut too tight across the torso relative to my shoulders.

In other words, if I get a coat that fits correctly across the shoulders (I usually take a 40S or 39S) it is too tight across the chest (I have 42" chest), the space for my shoulders (front to back, rather than shoulder to shoulder) is also a little tight. If I get a coat that fits comfortable around the chest, then the shoulders of the jacket extend 1/2" to 3/4" beyond my natural shoulders.

I know that bespoke would be a good option, but that is beyond my budget right now. I think that a couple of online MTM services that have gotten good reviews here would be a good option for me, but not having anything that fits nearly well enough to provide measurements makes me a little nervous. While I can invest into a couple of $500 - $700 jackets, I don't want to risk throwing that a much away on a "test" jacket that I got wrong.

I have a very good tailor, but he doesn't follow contemporary fashion trends/brands. What I would like to do instead is find an OTR jacket brand that would fit well enough around the shoulders and chest so that I can then have my tailor alter it into what could be a "best fitting jacket" (take in the waist, mainly) that I could the have copied by an MTM service. It would also need to be a jacket some structure on the shoulder, but minimal padding. Back in the 1990s and early 2000s there use to be these Athletic cut suits and jackets that worked well as a starting point, but I can't find a anything like that any more

I live in a small town and the nearby Macy's and outletmall don't have a single thing that works. I'm not necessarily looking for just some of those "entry level" jackets/brands they tend to carry. I'd be willing to invest up to $500 or $600 for a sports coat. That just happens to be what I have access to right now. I have an upcoming trip to Chicago, so I'm hoping that I can find something there but would appreciate some guidance because I won't have time try every single brand in every store.

So far I've tried: Stuff at Macys (their Ralph Lauren, Hilfiger, Kenneth Cole, and Calvin Klein lines); all styles of Jos. A. Bank.

In years past, when I used to wear suits regularly, the Hugo Boss and Jones New York lines at Macy's used to fit me relatively well, but that was in the days when suits were cut a bit fuller than today. My local store doesn't carry these brands so I don't know if these remain as good options.
 

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 97 38.0%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 92 36.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 29 11.4%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 42 16.5%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 14.9%

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